ILVE's PDF-906 MP Range

ILVE (Industria Lavorazione Veneta Elettrodomestici S.p.A.) was founded in the late 50s by a couple of guys who decided to weld gas burners to the metal cabinets they made. The resulting "cooktops" were rustic by today's standards, but proved popular, so they took the next logical step and began to make true ranges, with ovens as well as burners. This occurred during the great housing boom of the 60s, and they did very well.

ILVE produces all of its ranges to order: Clients can select the finish (brushed steel, copper or brass, or one of 6 colors), appearance (traditional or modern), width (60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, and 150 cm, or 2-5 feet) oven type (gas or electric, convection and multiprogram in either case), oven configuration (single, or, in wider ranges, side-by-side), and, in ranges 90 or more cm wide, burner configuration. The unit pictured is 90 cm (36 inches) wide, and has 6 burners, all equipped with electronic ignition and heat sensors that shut off the gas if the burner goes out: A 4.3 KW tripple crown burner that brings pasta water to a boil in minutes, and is ideal for heating a wok, three 2.6 KW medium burners, and two 1.8 KW small burners. The burners are brass, with cast-iron caps to prevent discoloration, and though firmly seated are easy to remove to clean the drip pans, which are quite deep. The burner grates are cast iron and form a level surface one can easily move heavy pots over by sliding them rather than lifting them.

As I said, the unit pictured has 6 burners. The 90 cm model is also offered with either an electric grill or a griddle in the central bay, or, if you order the electric oven, a deep fat frier. The griddle, which is called a fry top, merits an aside: It was requested by ILVE's Australian importers and is heated by a long thin burner of the sort generally used to heat a fish pot. It comes with a number of accessories, including a chopping board that serves as a cover when the fry top is not in use, a steamer, chafing dishes, and a ribbed grill; if you want to use a fish pot you can remove the griddle and set a cast iron grate in its place. And finally, if you want, you can order an induction burner, or an induction cooktop. The dials controlling the burners feel solid, turn smoothly, and allow precise flame regulation.

ILVE makes four oven sizes: 30, 40, 60, and 90 cm (1-3 feet wide), and beginning with the 90 cm range allows clients to decide if they want one oven, or two ovens side-by-side. Here there are 60 and 30 cm electric ovens; the 60 cm unit is ample inside, large enough to hold a turkey in its roasting pan, while the smaller 30 cm oven, which one would expect to use in a supporting role, is also equipped with a rotisserie that makes it perfect for spit roasting. The temperature control is smooth, and convection fans within the ovens help distribute heat evenly. The larger of the two ovens can be programed via the clock.

If you use your range it will get dirty, and then you can either throw it out and buy anew, as a relative of mine once did, or clean it. The ILVE unit is quite easy to clean: The cast iron burner grates are individual rather than double, and therefore easy to lift out. The burner assemblies also lift out easily, and the bays are smooth-sided and easy to sponge down. The ovens are also easy to clean; you simply open the doors and remove the racks; if spattering is severe the rack guides also come out easily.

Bottom line: ILVE's PDF-906 MP Range is solidly built, quite versatile, and an excellent choice for a serious cook.