Babà was supposedly invented by the chef of an exiled Slavic king who settled in Nancy (France). Word of the man's voluptuous creation rapidly got around, and someone took it to Naples, where the pastry shops adopted it with an enthusiasm that continues unabated; the Neapolitans are considered the master babà-makers of Italy.
In introducing it Artusi says, "This pastry wants to look its maker in the eye. In other words, it requires care and patience to make it."
In introducing it Artusi says, "This pastry wants to look its maker in the eye. In other words, it requires care and patience to make it."
Ingredients:
- 2 cups and 1 tablespoon (250 g) flour
- 3/8 cup (75 g) unsalted butter
- 1/3 cup Sultana raisins
- 2 tablespoons stemmed Malaga raisins
- 1 1/2 tablespoons baker's yeast
- About a half cup milk, or, better yet, cream
- 2 eggs plus one yolk
- 1 tablespoon Marsala
- 1 tablespoon rum or cognac
- 1 tablespoon candied citron, cut into thin strips
- A pinch of salt
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preparation:
Using a quarter of the flour and a drop of the milk, make a starter loaf of the proper consistency with the yeast. Cut a cross on the surface of the loaf, not for fear of witches, but to be able to tell how much it has risen, and set the loaf near enough to the fire so it will be barely warmed, in a covered bowl, with a few drops of milk. While it is rising, a process that will require about a half hour, crack the eggs into a bowl and stir them with the sugar. Then mix in the remaining flour, the starter loaf, the butter, which should be melted and warm, the spirits, and, if the dough comes out too stiff, a little milk. Stir the dough until it comes away from the sides of the bowl, then mix in the fruit and set it to rise. When the dough has risen, shift it about with a wooden spoon and transfer it to a greased pan that's been dusted with powdered sugar and flour.
High sided ribbed copper molds are those best suited for making babà; make sure they're at least double the volume of the dough. Cover the mold with a cloth to protect the dough from drafts and set it in a caldana (a chamber built into the flue, used to keep foods warm; pick a warm draft-free spot) or a barely warm oven to rise, a procedure that will require at least two hours. If everything goes well, the dough will double in volume, reaching the rim of the mold. Bake it, making sure that it doesn't come into contact with drafts. It's cooked when a twig from a broom inserted comes out clean. At this point, because of its size, you should leave it in the hot oven to dry out. The unmolded babà should be the color of bread crust. Dust it with powdered sugar and serve it cold.
As is often the case, Artusi is cursory. Bake the babà in a 380 F (190 C) oven for about 40 minutes. And there is a second problem with the recipe: Artusi, who was against strong drink, neglects to mention that babà is generally served drenched in a liquor made by preparing a syrup with 1 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar, letting it cool, and stirring in a brimming cup of Jamaican rum. If you choose to serve it this way, forego the dusting of powdered sugar, and don't serve it to children. Pastry shops sell babà in individual portions, two of which are sufficient to make a teetotaler tipsy. Since it dries out rapidly (even with the syrup), serve it as soon after baking as possible.
High sided ribbed copper molds are those best suited for making babà; make sure they're at least double the volume of the dough. Cover the mold with a cloth to protect the dough from drafts and set it in a caldana (a chamber built into the flue, used to keep foods warm; pick a warm draft-free spot) or a barely warm oven to rise, a procedure that will require at least two hours. If everything goes well, the dough will double in volume, reaching the rim of the mold. Bake it, making sure that it doesn't come into contact with drafts. It's cooked when a twig from a broom inserted comes out clean. At this point, because of its size, you should leave it in the hot oven to dry out. The unmolded babà should be the color of bread crust. Dust it with powdered sugar and serve it cold.
As is often the case, Artusi is cursory. Bake the babà in a 380 F (190 C) oven for about 40 minutes. And there is a second problem with the recipe: Artusi, who was against strong drink, neglects to mention that babà is generally served drenched in a liquor made by preparing a syrup with 1 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar, letting it cool, and stirring in a brimming cup of Jamaican rum. If you choose to serve it this way, forego the dusting of powdered sugar, and don't serve it to children. Pastry shops sell babà in individual portions, two of which are sufficient to make a teetotaler tipsy. Since it dries out rapidly (even with the syrup), serve it as soon after baking as possible.
