Calabrian Cooking
Calabria, the toe of the boot, is a wild and rugged land; along the sea fishing villages cling to the rocks, and enjoy the freshest of fish, while inland are wild and craggy mountains that make farming difficult. Conditions are such that people learned early on how to preserve foods, and the region is especially known for its use of red pepper.
Aspromonte-Style Roast Boar Recipe - Cinghiale All'Aspromonte
The Aspromonte is Calabria's central mountainous massif, and the name -- literally, "The Bitter Mountain" gives an idea of how rugged the topography is and how harsh the conditions are. One of the creatures that roams the mountains is the wild boar, and this is a simple recipe for roast sella di cinghiale, or rack of wild boar.
The Aspromonte is Calabria's central mountainous massif, and the name -- literally, "The Bitter Mountain" gives an idea of how rugged the topography is and how harsh the conditions are. One of the creatures that roams the mountains is the wild boar, and this is a simple recipe for roast sella di cinghiale, or rack of wild boar.
Lamb Chops Calabrian Style: Costolette alla Calabrese
There are a number of variations on Calabrian lamb chops, which seem to have bell pepper as a common thread. Carlo Midione gives a version with artichokes in his The Food of Southern Italy, while this version instead adds green olives.
There are a number of variations on Calabrian lamb chops, which seem to have bell pepper as a common thread. Carlo Midione gives a version with artichokes in his The Food of Southern Italy, while this version instead adds green olives.
A Glossary of Calabrian Terminology
Many of the words are Italian as opposed to dialect, which means you'll find them useful no matter what part of the Peninsula you come to visit.
Many of the words are Italian as opposed to dialect, which means you'll find them useful no matter what part of the Peninsula you come to visit.
Calabria in the 50s
Notes on dining in an era long gone; they read like an anthropological text but are interesting. From Italian Bouquet, an Epicurean Tour of Italy, by Samuel Chamberlain.
Notes on dining in an era long gone; they read like an anthropological text but are interesting. From Italian Bouquet, an Epicurean Tour of Italy, by Samuel Chamberlain.
Cuisine of the Sun
Sims Brannon on Calabrian Cuisine, which can be very good: Witness the frittata recipe with sausage, cheese and freshly cooked pasta.
Sims Brannon on Calabrian Cuisine, which can be very good: Witness the frittata recipe with sausage, cheese and freshly cooked pasta.
Sautéed Olives -- Olive Soffritte
Sautéed Olives, or Olive Soffritte: Lise has an olive tree and wants to know what to do with the olives. Fresh from the tree, they are tremendously bitter, to the point that the people who originally went to the trouble of learning how to treat them must have been extraordinarily hungry. To draw out the bitterness you'll have to soak them, either in brine or lye. These are Calabrian, and are traditionally done with black olives that are harvested and left to dry in the sun. You'll need:
Sautéed Olives, or Olive Soffritte: Lise has an olive tree and wants to know what to do with the olives. Fresh from the tree, they are tremendously bitter, to the point that the people who originally went to the trouble of learning how to treat them must have been extraordinarily hungry. To draw out the bitterness you'll have to soak them, either in brine or lye. These are Calabrian, and are traditionally done with black olives that are harvested and left to dry in the sun. You'll need:
Olives Cured in Lye -- Olive in Concia
Olives Cured in Lye, or Olive in Concia: Lise, who has an olive tree in her back yard, wants to know what to do with the olives. Fresh from the tree, they are tremendously bitter, to the point that the people who originally went to the trouble of learning how to treat them must have been extraordinarily hungry. To draw out the bitterness you'll have to soak them, either in brine or in a solution of lye, or a combination of the two.
Olives Cured in Lye, or Olive in Concia: Lise, who has an olive tree in her back yard, wants to know what to do with the olives. Fresh from the tree, they are tremendously bitter, to the point that the people who originally went to the trouble of learning how to treat them must have been extraordinarily hungry. To draw out the bitterness you'll have to soak them, either in brine or in a solution of lye, or a combination of the two.
Brine-Cured Olives -- Olive in Acqua
Olive in Acqua -- -- Brine-Cured Olives
Olive in Acqua -- -- Brine-Cured Olives
Dried Tomatoes: Pimmaduori Siccati
Zesty sun-dried tomatoes, Calabrian style.
Zesty sun-dried tomatoes, Calabrian style.
Calabrian Eggplant: Melanzane Calabre
Zesty Calabrian eggplant with garlic and hot pepper, a perfect summer antipasto.
Zesty Calabrian eggplant with garlic and hot pepper, a perfect summer antipasto.
Dried Tomatoes: Pimmaduori Salati
How to preserve tomatoes if you lack refrigeration, but not less tasty for that.
How to preserve tomatoes if you lack refrigeration, but not less tasty for that.
Sauteed Olives: Olive Soffritte
Dried olives sauteed with hot pepper, a Calabrian treat..
Dried olives sauteed with hot pepper, a Calabrian treat..
Stuffed Tomatoes: Pimmaduori Chjini
Stuffed tomatoes with a Calabrian twist: they're dried, and seasoned with anchovies and herbs.
Stuffed tomatoes with a Calabrian twist: they're dried, and seasoned with anchovies and herbs.
Panzerotti di Ricotta
Panzerotti di Ricotta are sweet Calabrian ravioli stuffed with a ricotta mixture and fried. Who could ask for more?
Panzerotti di Ricotta are sweet Calabrian ravioli stuffed with a ricotta mixture and fried. Who could ask for more?
Majatiche ccu Meme 'I Ficu & Mustazzuoli
Majatiche ccu Meme 'I Ficu & Mustazzuoli: Michael writes, "My father's family came from Calabria and his mother used to make some cookies at Christmas time. We have been able to obtain some of the recipes but he has memories of two that we can't find. One is what he calls Torada (Not sure of the spelling) hard cookies made with like a bread dough with anise or fennel. The other is made, he thinks with honey and flour, deep fried then stored for a period of time until they get hard....
Majatiche ccu Meme 'I Ficu & Mustazzuoli: Michael writes, "My father's family came from Calabria and his mother used to make some cookies at Christmas time. We have been able to obtain some of the recipes but he has memories of two that we can't find. One is what he calls Torada (Not sure of the spelling) hard cookies made with like a bread dough with anise or fennel. The other is made, he thinks with honey and flour, deep fried then stored for a period of time until they get hard....
Ginetti
Still on the subject of Calabria, Bobbi writes, "I've been looking frantically for a recipe for Genetti. My uncle used to make them for me years ago. When he passed away, so did the recipe. I can't find one anywhere. I believe it is a Calabrese recipe, but I could be wrong. It is a large round donut shaped cooked, hole in middle, glazed with sugar. Great for dunking or eating plain....
Still on the subject of Calabria, Bobbi writes, "I've been looking frantically for a recipe for Genetti. My uncle used to make them for me years ago. When he passed away, so did the recipe. I can't find one anywhere. I believe it is a Calabrese recipe, but I could be wrong. It is a large round donut shaped cooked, hole in middle, glazed with sugar. Great for dunking or eating plain....
Marinated Tuna -- Tonno Cunzatu
Marinated Tuna, or Tonno Cunzatu: There are all sorts of ways to marinate tuna. This is Calabrian, involves black olives and lemon, and is ideally suited for a summer meal -- it can be prepared ahead, and is just as good cool as it is hot. It will serve 6.
Marinated Tuna, or Tonno Cunzatu: There are all sorts of ways to marinate tuna. This is Calabrian, involves black olives and lemon, and is ideally suited for a summer meal -- it can be prepared ahead, and is just as good cool as it is hot. It will serve 6.
Tuna Marinara Style -- Tonno Alla Marinara
Tuna Marinara Style, or Tonno Alla Marinara: Stewed tuna with tomatoes, olives, and capers. The dish is Calabrian, and is a specialty of the Gulf of Sant'Eufemia.
Tuna Marinara Style, or Tonno Alla Marinara: Stewed tuna with tomatoes, olives, and capers. The dish is Calabrian, and is a specialty of the Gulf of Sant'Eufemia.
Stuffed Figs Calabrian Style, or Fichi Ripieni alla Calabrese
A summer delight! Though the recipe calls for cloves in the syrup, feel free to substitute them with either a piece of stick cinnamon or a vanilla bean. They'll keep for a few days in the fridge, but will begin to ferment if kept overlong.
A summer delight! Though the recipe calls for cloves in the syrup, feel free to substitute them with either a piece of stick cinnamon or a vanilla bean. They'll keep for a few days in the fridge, but will begin to ferment if kept overlong.
Calabrian style Lasagne with Salted Ricotta, Lasagne con Ricotta alla Calabrese
Rustic and hearty fare that will be nice in the summer, with an abundant tossed salad.
Rustic and hearty fare that will be nice in the summer, with an abundant tossed salad.
Onion Soup -- Zuppa di Cipolle
Onion Soup, or Zuppa di Cipolle: A distinctly non-French variation on onion soup, from Calabria.
Onion Soup, or Zuppa di Cipolle: A distinctly non-French variation on onion soup, from Calabria.
Majatiche ccu Meme 'I Ficu (Fritters with Fig Honey) and Mustazzuoli
A pair of tasty Calabrian treats, one a fritter and the other a fennel-laced cookie.
A pair of tasty Calabrian treats, one a fritter and the other a fennel-laced cookie.
Calabrian Feast Day Meat -- Carne di Juorni ‘I Festa
A rich, tasty Calabrian feast day beef stew with olives, tomatoes, and lemon.
A rich, tasty Calabrian feast day beef stew with olives, tomatoes, and lemon.
Cuccia
Winding down with Calabrian sweets, Mr. Cavalcanti also gives a recipe for Cuccía, a pasty traditionally made for Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy, who is celebrated December 13). Cavalcanti quotes a Mr. Dorsa, who says Cuccía derives from Byzantine Greek. This would suggest the recipe is quite old...
Winding down with Calabrian sweets, Mr. Cavalcanti also gives a recipe for Cuccía, a pasty traditionally made for Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy, who is celebrated December 13). Cavalcanti quotes a Mr. Dorsa, who says Cuccía derives from Byzantine Greek. This would suggest the recipe is quite old...
Veal Cutlets with Peppers -- Costolette di Vitello coi Peperoni
Veal Cutlets with Peppers, or Costolette di Vitello coi Peperoni: This is Calabrian recipe, and ideally the peppers should have some bite. If need be, however, you can use sweet bell peppers instead.
Veal Cutlets with Peppers, or Costolette di Vitello coi Peperoni: This is Calabrian recipe, and ideally the peppers should have some bite. If need be, however, you can use sweet bell peppers instead.
Calabrian Feast Day Meat: Carne di Juorni di Festa
A Calabrian recipe for roast veal with tomatoes and herbs.
A Calabrian recipe for roast veal with tomatoes and herbs.
Spaghetti with Cuttlefish Calabrian Style, Spaghetti con le Seppie alla Calabrese
You'll need small tender cuttlefish for this pasta, which will serve four as a first course, or two as a main course (with a tossed salad).
You'll need small tender cuttlefish for this pasta, which will serve four as a first course, or two as a main course (with a tossed salad).
Pasta with Sardines, Pasta Ccu Ri Sarde
This springs from a request from Keith, for "an Italian dish that includes, among other things, currants and fresh anchovies tossed with linguine." It sounds intriguing, but I haven't come across it yet. What I have found, in Ottavio Cavalcanti's Il Libro della Cucina e dei Vini di Calabria e Basilicata, is Pasta Ccu Ri Sarde, pasta with fresh sardines. To serve four, you will need:
This springs from a request from Keith, for "an Italian dish that includes, among other things, currants and fresh anchovies tossed with linguine." It sounds intriguing, but I haven't come across it yet. What I have found, in Ottavio Cavalcanti's Il Libro della Cucina e dei Vini di Calabria e Basilicata, is Pasta Ccu Ri Sarde, pasta with fresh sardines. To serve four, you will need:
Lentils -- Lenticchi
Lentils, or Lenticchi: Here's a Calabrian recipe for lentils. Though it's obviously a side dish, it will also work nicely as a light meal with a tossed salad. In terms of a wine, a Ciró Bianco comes to mind.
Lentils, or Lenticchi: Here's a Calabrian recipe for lentils. Though it's obviously a side dish, it will also work nicely as a light meal with a tossed salad. In terms of a wine, a Ciró Bianco comes to mind.
Octopus Salad -- Insalata di Polipi
Octopus Salad, or Insalata di Polipi: While we're on the subject of octopus, here's a Calabrian recipe for octopus salad that will be a nice antipasto.
Octopus Salad, or Insalata di Polipi: While we're on the subject of octopus, here's a Calabrian recipe for octopus salad that will be a nice antipasto.
Chicken Basted in Sea Water: Gadduzzu all'Acqua 'I Mari
A specialty of Vibo Valentia (Calabria), chicken stuffed with sausages and other goodies, and roasted (basting with sea water, if you have it).
A specialty of Vibo Valentia (Calabria), chicken stuffed with sausages and other goodies, and roasted (basting with sea water, if you have it).
Chicken Catanzaro Style: Gaddru a ra Catanzirisi
That's filled with butter, lemon and anchovy filets (just a few) and roasted. Self basting and zesty!
That's filled with butter, lemon and anchovy filets (just a few) and roasted. Self basting and zesty!
Lamb Catanzaro Style -- Avunu a Catanzarisi
Lamb Catanzaro Style, or Avunu a Catanzarisi: Calabrian recipes tend to be zesty; the richness of the meat is nicely balanced by the sharpness of the capers and anchovies, which will provide flavor and balance but not overshadow (encouragement for those wary of anchovies).
Lamb Catanzaro Style, or Avunu a Catanzarisi: Calabrian recipes tend to be zesty; the richness of the meat is nicely balanced by the sharpness of the capers and anchovies, which will provide flavor and balance but not overshadow (encouragement for those wary of anchovies).
Calabrian Grilled Kid -- Capretto alla Griglia
Calabrian Grilled Kid, or Capretto alla Griglia: A simple, tasty recipe from Calabria.
Calabrian Grilled Kid, or Capretto alla Griglia: A simple, tasty recipe from Calabria.
Roast Kid -- Capretto a Ru Furnu
An intriguing mixture of roasting and stewing for this kid or lamb, from Calabria.
An intriguing mixture of roasting and stewing for this kid or lamb, from Calabria.
Lamb Chops Calabrese Style
Lamb Chops Calabrian style, an excellent recipe from my review of Carlo Middione's The Food of Southern Italy.
Lamb Chops Calabrian style, an excellent recipe from my review of Carlo Middione's The Food of Southern Italy.
Stewed Goat, Vutana Style -- Capra a Ra Vutana
Though some people object to goat, I enjoy its flavor, and it becomes extraordinarily tender as it simmers. In this case, with tomatoes, fennel and more. If you do not have goat, lamb will work well too.
Though some people object to goat, I enjoy its flavor, and it becomes extraordinarily tender as it simmers. In this case, with tomatoes, fennel and more. If you do not have goat, lamb will work well too.
Meatballs with Raisins -- Purpette a Ra Passula
Though this might sound somewhat unlikely, it is quite traditional. The recipe is Calabrian, and the Italian I worked from doesn't give measurements, so feel free to adjust quantities to suit your taste.
Though this might sound somewhat unlikely, it is quite traditional. The recipe is Calabrian, and the Italian I worked from doesn't give measurements, so feel free to adjust quantities to suit your taste.
Calabrian-style Pork Chops -- Braciole di Maiale alla Calabrese
Calabrian-style Pork Chops, or Braciole di Maiale alla Calabrese: Italians often use fennel seeds to season pork chops. In Calabria they also add hot pepper to give them added kick.
Calabrian-style Pork Chops, or Braciole di Maiale alla Calabrese: Italians often use fennel seeds to season pork chops. In Calabria they also add hot pepper to give them added kick.
Braciole Calabresi
Braciole Calabresi: This is an old Calabrian recipe that is quite tasty hot off the fire. It's also rather particular, in that it's made entirely with non-water-based ingredients that will keep quite well if protected from the air, say by a layer of oil. In fact, packing cooked meats in an oil that would solidify as it cooled to room temperature was a common form of preservation in pre-refrigerated Italy, and you'll likely find a jar of these tucked away in some pantries in Calabria even today.
Braciole Calabresi: This is an old Calabrian recipe that is quite tasty hot off the fire. It's also rather particular, in that it's made entirely with non-water-based ingredients that will keep quite well if protected from the air, say by a layer of oil. In fact, packing cooked meats in an oil that would solidify as it cooled to room temperature was a common form of preservation in pre-refrigerated Italy, and you'll likely find a jar of these tucked away in some pantries in Calabria even today.
Grilled Pork Chops -- Braciole di Maiale
Grilled Pork Chops, or Braciole di Maiale: Some recipes are involved. Others, like this from Calabria, are extremely simple.
Grilled Pork Chops, or Braciole di Maiale: Some recipes are involved. Others, like this from Calabria, are extremely simple.
Meatballs with Raisins: Purpette a Ra Passula
A Calabrian specialty, meatballs with raisins in their hearts, which go perfectly with broccoli rabe.
A Calabrian specialty, meatballs with raisins in their hearts, which go perfectly with broccoli rabe.
Pasta with Sundried Tomatoes -- Pasta Con Pomodori Secchi
Pasta with Sundried Tomatoes, or Pasta Con Pomodori Secchi: Dried tomatoes are a southern thing in Italy, to the point that a deli owner I bought them from in Florence once told me he didn't know what to do with them. This is a Calabrian recipe.
Pasta with Sundried Tomatoes, or Pasta Con Pomodori Secchi: Dried tomatoes are a southern thing in Italy, to the point that a deli owner I bought them from in Florence once told me he didn't know what to do with them. This is a Calabrian recipe.
Old-Fashioned Hare -- Liepru all’Antica
Hare and rabbit are both readily available in Italy, and though Artusi mentions a well-to-do person's being put off by the latter, they have always been popular out in the country because they're easy to catch or raise. This recipe is Calabrian.
Hare and rabbit are both readily available in Italy, and though Artusi mentions a well-to-do person's being put off by the latter, they have always been popular out in the country because they're easy to catch or raise. This recipe is Calabrian.
Wildcat -- Gattu Serivaggiu
Don’t blanch; up until the 1950s most Calabrians who lived in the country ate meat once a week if that, and depended upon sheep and goats for much of their protein (through milk as well as meat). They would have of course attempted to kill any local predators, and having done so would then have eaten their catch. This can also be done with hare, rabbit, game or chicken. If you are using game rinse the meat and marinate it for a day to reduce the gamy flavor.
Don’t blanch; up until the 1950s most Calabrians who lived in the country ate meat once a week if that, and depended upon sheep and goats for much of their protein (through milk as well as meat). They would have of course attempted to kill any local predators, and having done so would then have eaten their catch. This can also be done with hare, rabbit, game or chicken. If you are using game rinse the meat and marinate it for a day to reduce the gamy flavor.
Calabrian Eggplant -- Melanzane Calabre
Melanzane Calabre -- -- Calabrian Eggplan
Melanzane Calabre -- -- Calabrian Eggplan
Stuffed Egglplant -- Milangiane Chjine
There are many kinds of stuffed eggplant. This is Calabrian, with bread crumbs and Romano cheese.
There are many kinds of stuffed eggplant. This is Calabrian, with bread crumbs and Romano cheese.
Sun Dried Tomatoes -- Pimmaduori Siccati
Sun dried tomatoes are a standard South Italian antipasto and ingredient, and are also easy to make. This particular recipe is Calabrian; before you begin check the weather forecast because you'll need several days of hot dry weather with intense sunlight.
Sun dried tomatoes are a standard South Italian antipasto and ingredient, and are also easy to make. This particular recipe is Calabrian; before you begin check the weather forecast because you'll need several days of hot dry weather with intense sunlight.
Salted Tomatoes -- Pimmaduori Salati
This is Calabrian, and is A Calabrian recipe. It's in many ways a throwback to the days before refrigeration, but will work well as an antipasto or side dish to go with mildly flavored meats or fish.
This is Calabrian, and is A Calabrian recipe. It's in many ways a throwback to the days before refrigeration, but will work well as an antipasto or side dish to go with mildly flavored meats or fish.
Calabrian Stuffed Tomatoes -- Pimmaduori Chjini
This recipe is Calabrian. It calls for ripe tomatoes you should dry yourself; before you begin check the weather forecast because you'll need several days of hot dry weather with intense sunlight. (See below for instructions.)
This recipe is Calabrian. It calls for ripe tomatoes you should dry yourself; before you begin check the weather forecast because you'll need several days of hot dry weather with intense sunlight. (See below for instructions.)
Stuffed Zucchini -- Cucuzzieddri Chjini
There are many recipes for stuffed zucchini. This is from Basilicata, and is quite simple, with bread crumbs, minced beef, and grated pecorino leading the way.
There are many recipes for stuffed zucchini. This is from Basilicata, and is quite simple, with bread crumbs, minced beef, and grated pecorino leading the way.