The Abruzzo is a wild and craggy region with small fishing hamlets along the Adriatic and pastures in the highlands inland, where until quite recently shepherds lived with their flocks for much of the year. The cooking is frugal, simple peasant food, and wholesome too.
Misi writes: "Recently a dish has come to my attention and I was wondering if you could help me. The name of the dish, is tiella; it consists of zucchini, potatoes, ground bee and various Italian spices and herbs. I am trying to find a recipe for this dish, as those I spoke to all have the recipe in their heads and not on paper." I've found a couple of things. One is from the Abruzzo-Molise area, and is essentially a vegetable casserole. To serve about 6, you'll need:
This is an old, and very simple recipe from the Abruzzo, and also quite delicate; fennel adds a delightful hint of anise freshness to the dish, while the olives also contribute.
Italy is a maritime nation, but there are large sections inland where fresh fish isn't as easy to come by, and this was even truer in the past, when travel time was measured in days or weeks, intervals much too long for fresh fish. Salt fish, on the other hand, keeps very well, and this baccalà recipe is from the inland areas of the Abruzzo.
The Abruzzo is a wild land, and in the past much of the inland population depended upon their flocks of sheep for survival. This is a modern, more elaborate Abruzzese stewed lamb with onions.
Recipes form a wild, beautiful land.
Corby Cummer's recollections of visiting the Abruzzo region, and several recipes too. As always well written & fun.
A tasty grain-based dish with squid and squid ink.
This recipe is from the Abruzzo region. Fiadoni are especially popular at the end of the Panarda, the feast held to honor the patron saint.
An Abruzzese Fava Bean Soup with Peas and Artichokes, or Zuppa Abruzzese di Fave con Piselli e Carciofi: This is classic peasant cuisine, of a well-off peasant who didn't have to give all to the landlord and could therefore afford to eat, but peasant nonetheless, as is shown by the preponderance of vegetables in the ingredient list.
Chestnut Soup From The Abruzzo: Tom recently wrote to ask for a chestnut and chickpea soup from L'Acquila, in the Abruzzo. I haven't come across it, but I have found recipes for both chestnut and chickpea soup in a book dedicated to la Cucina Abruzzese. To make chestnut soup for six you'll need:
A hearty chestnut minestrone from the Abruzzo.
Ricotta-filled cookeies to close a feast, from the Abruzzo Region.
Baccalà in Graticola con Peperoni, or Grilled Baccalà with Peppers: Baccalà and peppers go quite nicely together in this recipe from the Abruzzo. Though it's traditionally done over the coals, you could also use a broiler.
Spezzatino con i Peperoni -- Veal Stew with Peppers -- Spezzatino con i Peperoni -- Veal Stew with Peppers
Chickpea Soup From The Abruzzo: Tom recently wrote to ask for a chestnut and chickpea soup from L'Acquila, in the Abruzzo. I haven't come across it, but I have found recipes for both chestnut and chickpea soup in a book dedicated to La Cucina Abruzzese.
A pair of creamy, hearty soups from the Abruzzo.
The Abruzzo region is known for hearty fare made of frugal ingredients, for example this legume and artichoke soup.
A tasty grain-based dish with squid and squid ink.
Gnocchetti con Orapi e Peperoncino, or Gnocchi with Wild Spinach & Hot Pepper: In the past the people of the Abruzzo Region often seasoned their pasta with wild greens, rather than a meat-based sauce. Orapi are a local variety of wild spinach that isn't available outside the Abruzzo; in the absence of wild spinach I would substitute for them with a mixture of regular spinach and a little broccoli rabe.
Bucatini all'Amatriciana: This zesty pancetta and tomato sauce is commonly associated with Lazio and Rome, but is actually from the town of Amatrice, just over the border into Abruzzo.
Maccheroni alla chitarra are a specialty from the Abruzzo region, and are made by rolling a sheet of pasta slightly thicker than normal (dime-and-a-half thick) and forcing it through the chitarra, a set of closely strung strings that looks very much like the strings of a guitar; the end result is spaghetti-like pasta that is square in cross section. This recipe is also quite interesting for its use of meatballs....
Farro al Nero di Seppia, or Farro with Cuttlefish Ink: This is a variation on the much better known risotto with squid ink. It's from the Abruzzo region, and more specifically the Locanda dell'Arte in Cittá Sant'Angelo. The recipe calls for pearled farro; if you cannot find it use whatever farro, spelt or emmer that you can find.
Kid Neretese Style, or Capra alla Neretese: Kid, stewed with onions, hot, and regular peppers, is a specialty of the town of Nereto, near Teramo, in Abruzzi. The recipe will also work with lamb.
Lamb with Mint, or Agnello alla Menta: Lamb with mint jelly was one of my grandmother's standard dishes, and very good it was. She was from Vermont, and I haven't ever come across mint jelly in Italy. However, people do combine mint and lamb here too; this particular recipe is from the Abruzzo.
Lamb with Bell Peppers, or Agnello coi Peperoni: Though one perhaps thinks of potatoes in conjunction with stewing, they're not requirements, and indeed this stew with bell peppers is a very nice variation. The recipe is from the Abruzzo.
Lamb with Olives, or Agnello alle Olive: Lamb and olives are a fine combination, the bitterness of the olives nicely balancing the richness of the lamb to make a whole that's greater than the parts. This recipe is from the Abruzzo.
Lamb, Farmer's Style, or Agnello alla Contadina: Lamb stew is tremendously satisfying, and there are a great many variations on the theme. This particular recipe is from the Abruzzo.
Spicy Lamb, or Agnello all'Arrabbiata: Though the word arrabbiata means angry in general use, in cooking it usually means that the dish contains hot pepper. This particular recipe is from the Abruzzo.
Rabbit Spiedini, or Spiedini di Coniglio: Rabbit is a dry meat, and therefore requires help if it is to emerge from the grill without having become tough and chewy. And it does so very well in this recipe from the Abruzzo.
Misi writes: "Recently a dish has come to my attention and I was wondering if you could help me. The name of the dish, is tiella; it consists of zucchini, potatoes, ground bee and various Italian spices and herbs. I am trying to find a recipe for this dish, as those I spoke to all have the recipe in their heads and not on paper." I've found a couple of things. One is from the Abruzzo-Molise area, and is essentially a vegetable casserole. To serve about 6, you'll need:
