The Veneto, as you might expect, draws its name from Venice. And there are many fish dishes. But the region has much more, including Verona's hearty stews and boiled meats, Vicenza's baccalà, and Treviso's many kinds of radicchio.
Sautéed cabbage is common throughout northern Italy, with many relatively minor variations on the theme. This particular sautéed cabbage recipe is from the Vicentino, in the Veneto.
A number of years ago I finished Vinitaly, the major Italian wine trade show, with a delightful potluck dinner at the home of Lorenzo Begali, who makes wonderful Valpolicella and Amarone. And wrote down the recipes. This time it was a much quieter dinner, and Adriana, Lorenzo's wife, served pasta followed by stew and polenta.
The Venetians introduced rice, which they got from the Arabs, to northern Italy, and developed a number of dishes that combine rice with other ingredients; the best known is Risi e Bisi, Rice & Peas, which was only prepared when the Doge (Venice's ruler) allowed. Risi e Verze, Rice & Savoy Cabbage, is a bit more plebian, and simple winter fare.
Italy has a great many bean soups, most of which are rather creamy in texture. Minestra di Fagioli, or pasta fazool comes to mind. This bean and cabbage soup from the Veneto is instead liquid, and gains added body from slices of toasted bread. In short, simple, frugal winter fare of the kind once enjoyed by those who couldn't afford meat. No less good for that, and now a fine option for those who are cutting back on meat consumption.
Pastissada is an old Veronese stew that draws from Austro-Hungarian tradition (Verona was a part of the Empire for a long time) and brings goulash to mind. Most of the recipes I've seen call for horsemeat, but this one is beef based, and it might be nice with an Amarone. To serve 6:
Little is more spectacular than a really good sea bass. Though the modern recipe calls for olive oil, Venetians traditionally used butter instead.
Bollito Misto is Boiled Dinner, and you might think it simple. And it is, in some ways, but it's also one of the tastiest, most satisfying north Italian meals going. Here's a look at what you'll find on your plate.
A baccalà and potato salad from the Veneto that will be nice when it's warm out -- in the past it would have been a summery dish, because that's when string beans are in season, but now, thanks to freezer bins, we can enjoy it year round.
Michela Chiarolaro makes a quick, surprisingly easy, extraordinarily tasty variation on gnocchi, and seasons it with a rich cauliflower and leek sauce. Winter comfort food at its best, and the sauce will be quite nice over regular potato gnocchi or pasta too.
Michela Chiarolaro makes a quick, surprisingly easy, extraordinarily tasty variation on gnocchi, and seasons it with a rich cauliflower and leek sauce. Winter comfort food at its best, and the sauce will be quite nice over regular potato gnocchi or pasta too.
Savoy Cabbage with Sausages, or Verze e Luganega, is a classic north Italian winter dish, and though one might class it as a vegetable, it is actually a superb accompaniment to polenta. You'll find variations on this dish throughout the north; this particular interpretation is from the Veneto. Regular mild link sausages will work fine if you don't have Luganega sausage.
Il Vicentino, the section of the Veneto around Vicenza (west of Venice, on the mainland) was once known for belt-tightening frugality. But also for good food, because the cooks were masters at transforming what little they had into tasty, nutritious meals.
Italy's annual wine show is the occasion of a memorable Veronese meal.
A nice, primarily fish-based collection a Venetian restaurant.
A discussion of traditional Venetian cuisine, with recipes as well, from the Ristorante Antico Martini. Interesting and nicely done.
A collection, simple fare ranging from Bellunese chestnut cake to chestnut pudding, but look nice.
Stockfish Dip, or Mantecato alla Veneziana: So what to serve for San Valentino? Among the standard suggestions one finds oysters, truffles, caviar, crustaceans (especially lobster), and chocolaty delights. Livio Cerini di Castegnate suggests all of these in A Tavola per Amare (At Table to Love), but also does sensual things with ingredients one might not normally expect, for example stoccafisso, dried salted cod (stockfish).
Sole, in a classic Venetian sweet-and-sour sauce.
This will work well in a platter of mixed antipasti.
In small portions this will be a mouthwatering beginning to a meal
Similar to the above but with turkey and truffles. Also mouthwatering.
Venetian Bones of the Dead -- Ossa da Morto: There are many versions of the Bones of the Dead, cookies Italians make for the Day of the Dead, November 2. With respect to those of the other parts of Italy, the Bones of the Dead in the Veneto region are quite different: they're made from corn meal rather than wheat flour.
Il Pandoro Veronese: Pandoro symbolizes Christmas like few other cakes: It even looks Christmassy, a craggy mountain topped with snow-white confectioners sugar. It's difficult to make, and therefore most Italians prefer to buy commercially produced Pandoro from their local baker or supermarket, but if you are an accomplished baker making it at home will be quite rewarding....
A simple, tasty tomatoey frittata from the veneto that will be very nice in the summer months.
Reef mullet are smallish bright red fish that swim about reefs, as their name implies. They are quite flavorful, and this is their downfall, because despite their many spines, people eagerly seek them out. This recipe is from the Veneto, and it has you wrap the fish in aluminum foil before you roast them. Serve them wrapped in their foil, which your diners will be able to peel back at table, bringing up a heady burst of aromas.
Sogliole in Saòr, or Sole in a Sweet-and-Sour Sauce: Dino Coltri doesn't mention Sarde in Saòr in his La Cucina Tradizionale Veneta. But he does give a recipe for Sogliole in Saòr, sole with a sweet and sour sauce. He begins by warning that the dish should be prepared at least 48 hours in advance, and can be served either as an antipasto or as a main course.
Cod, Vicentina Style, or Merluzzo alla Vicentina: Cod with a little onion and a little milk: one of the most classic north Italian fish recipes.
Stuffed Turkey, Trevigiana Style, or Tacchinella Farcita alla Trevigiana: This is a recipe from the Marca Trevigiana, the highlands inland of Treviso, in the Veneto. The combination of chestnuts and fruit works quite well, and it will be perfect on a festive occasion.
Polenta and the birds that got away -- a stew for when the hunters come up empty.
In parts of the Veneto region these cookies are made with a polenta-based dough.
Zucchini Flower Risotto with Prosecco, or Risotto ai Fiori di Zucca al Prosecco: In spring Italian markets fill with brilliant gold zucchini flowers, and here is a recipe for a risotto with zucchini flowers and Prosecco that will be quite nice in a romantic meal.
Red Radicchio Risotto, Risotto al Radicchio Rosso di Verona: The red radicchio of the Veneto is one of the great glories of the winter months, and a perfect reason to eagerly await cold weather. It's wonderful grilled, and is also very nice in risotto, either with other ingredients (for example, risotto with red radicchio and scampi), or by itself, as here.
Rice & Peas, or Risi e Bisi: Dana says, "I am looking for a recipe that is made with rice, peas, salt pork and chicken broth. I got it from a friend who got it from his Italian father. Unfortunately, I don't know the real name for this dish because my friend always uses his childhood pronunciation of "Rizibizi peas." It is probably something like Riso e Biso? But I don't speak Italian well, so I'm not sure."
Adriana's Minestrone di Verdure: This is a Veronese variation on a classic Italian theme, and is extraordinarily creamy, thanks to a healthy number of potatoes. Adriana says you can use short pasta such as ditalini in the dish, but that she prefers croutons instead, which provide a pleasant texture contrast.
Midolline are pasta bits shaped like melon seeds, and a radichio-based soup to go with them.
Diana Barr recently wrote requesting a Venetian Cream recipe. Tradition dictates Crema Fritta alla Veneziana should come in fairly thick, soft pieces, which are perfect for children's parties.
Veronese Bones of the Dead, made with polenta.
A sensuous stockfish (or baccalà) paté that is a fine antipasto or dip, and also good in romantic situations.
Simone Parkes wrote, "I have vague memories of a baccalà paste that was made with garlic and olive oil after the fish was poached in milk, I think it may have been from Venice? Have you heard of anything like this? From memory it was very yummy served with fried polenta." This sounds like baccalà alla vicentina, one of the classic recipes for baccalà in the Veneto region.
Most people associate goulash with Hungary and central Europe. However, it's also quite popular in the north-eastern Alps, which were long under Austrian domination (Bolzano, in the northern half of the Val D'Adige, is ethnically German and was annexed by Italy at the end of World War I). This recipe will be delightful with a steaming polenta.
Risotto Ko-Samui, or Ko-Samui Risotto: This is a creation of Gabriele Ferron, whose Antica Riseria Ferron is one of the most important producers of Vialone Nano rice; in addition to growing rice Gabriele is a tireless advocate of Vialone Nano and North Italian rice cookery in general, traveling all over the world to give demonstrations and host dinners.
Riso e Luganeghe -- -- Rice with Luganega Sausages
Milner's Risotto, or Risotto alla Pilota: The pilota is the person who works the pila, or rice mill, in the countryside around Verona, and since the job is physically demanding, the risotto is substantial.
Risotto with Tastasal, or Risotto col Tastasal: This is another mainstay of the rice-producing areas of the Veneto, and is, by comparison with some creamy risotti, rather odd -- tastasal is the stuffing used to make salami, and indeed the housewives of the Bassa Veronese would make it to judge the seasoning of their salami before putting the filling into the casing.
Risotto Isolana Style, or Risotto All'Isolana: This is from Isola della Scala, the heart of Verona's rice-growing district, and a very pretty area to visit, where you can still find the traditional waterwheel-driven mills used to separate the rice from the chaff. The best time to visit in is the fall, when there are festivals to celebrate the harvest. As with all traditional favorites, there are many variations to this recipe, and many cooks add secret ingredients.
The bitterness of radicchio blends enticingly with lemony acidity to make a very happy dish.
Beans in Anchovy Sauce, or Fagioli in Salsa di Acciughe: Anchovies add a special zest to dishes, and even if you think you don't like them you may be surprised. This is a Venetian recipe
And here's a recipe from Friuli that has a little pork -- we're told pork is considerably less risky than beef -- Fagioli e Radicchio, Beans with Radicchio. It's a winter dish, and you do have to like pork:
Carpaccio: On the forum there was a request for Carpaccio; Don posted this reply and kindly allowed me to pass it on: Carpaccio, named after a painter in 15th century, is a celebrated dish at Harry's Bar at Venice. The dish is created in favour of customer whose the doctor advise him only to eat raw meat. There are many variations of the dish, including the one in which beef fillet is coated with peppercorns and sliced paper thin, but here is my favourite.
Bigoli with Shellfish, or Bigoli con Molluschi: Bigoli are thick strands of pasta, which rather resemble the strings of a contrabass. Here's a simple recipe for them from Dino Coltro's La Cucina Tradizionale Veneta; he doesn't give quantities, which means you are on your own; I've given amounts, but if your sense of proportion dictates otherwise feel free to change things.
The word Scodelline means little bowls, and is quite apt for this delicate, very traditional Italian Passover dessert from Venice.
From Cosa Bolle In Pentola, the newsletter: Winding down, a couple of people have recently asked me for which is my favorite among the dozens of Tiramisu recipes out there. Put simply, wife Elisabetta's.
This requires fresh cuttlefish, because you will need the contents of one or two ink sacks. It makes an excellent one-course meal if served with either fresh polenta, which is the traditional Venetian accompaniment, or a simple risotto in bianco (a risotto made with a small onion, rice, and broth – see instructions on making risotto if need be). It's an elegant dish, which will certainly cause a stir.
Rice Pilaf with Catfish, or Riso Pilaf con Pesci Gatto: In any area with a tremendous amount of water there will be catfish, and this is a tasty way to use them in a risotto; the recipe is from Ivano Remondini, of Castel D'Ario, in the bassa Veronese.
Rice and Cualiflower, or Riso e Cavolfiore:
A tasty, unusual lamb stew that from the Veneto that wll be very nice in early spring, when Asparagus is especially flavorful.
Lamb Chops Scottadito: Lamb Chops Scottadito: Scottadito means finger-blistering, and with these lamb chops it's a serious risk: They're so good you'll not want to wait for them to cool. The recipe is courtesy of Ivana, and I enjoyed it at a delightful meal in Valpolicella, not far from Verona.
Spare Ribs, or Costicine di Maiale: There are lots of ways to cook spare ribs. Many end up being rather fatty, and though tasty aren't particularly healthy. I enjoyed this recipe at a dinner I had in the hinterland of Verona, and Ivana was kind enough to share it. There really aren't any quantities involved, so the amounts you use will be up to you.
International recipe crosstalk: Potato Goulash: With regards to the Tiella recipes I sent out last time, Gary writes that, according to Paola Gavin, author of Italian Vegetarian Cooking, "the dish dates to the time of Spanish rule in Southern Italy and is the forerunner of the Spanish dish paella." It's quite possible; in discussing national and regional cuisines we often loose sight of just how fluid borders are, of how short the distances are (especially in Europe).
Tasty stewed rabbit in a creamy wine-laced sauce.
Pearà, Veronese Pepper Sauce for Boiled Meats: You may be wondering, "What does one eat with an Amarone?" One classic reply is bollito misto, the boiled dinner that's common to all of Northern Italy; here's the Piemontese version, which was a favorite with Crown Price Vittorio Emanuele a century ago. What's done in the Veneto is similar, though the sauce of choice is a peppery exotic called pearà, which is made with crumbled bread, bone marrow and ground pepper (hence the name).
Grilled Radicchio Rosso di Treviso, or Radicchio rosso di Treviso alla Griglia: One wouldn't necessarily think to grill a leafy vegetable, but Radicchio has the texture and body necessary to stand up to the dry heat of a charcoal or stovetop grill, and also a pleasing bitterness that will do a nice job of contrasting the oil used to keep it from sticking and burning. It also benefits from the slightly smoky flavor it acquires during cooking.
Though radicchio is undeniably a leafy green, it has the structure and character necessary to stand up to being fried, and if you don't know what it is the first time you encounter it you may not guess. But you will want more.
A simple, tasty winter salad.
Yes, caval means horse, and this is indeed a traditional Veronese horsemeat stew, made with Amarone wine and paprica to taste -- the former local, and the latter revealing Austro-Hungarian influences from the period when the Veneto was part of the Austrian empire.
If the idea of eating horse bothers you, you can use beef instead -- it won't be quite as rich in iron, but will still be good.
Duck Stuffed with Pears, or Anatra Ripiena con le Pere: This is a recipe from the Marca Trevigiana, the plains inland of Treviso in the Veneto, and will be quite nice on a festive winter occasion.
Venetian Spit-Roasted Pigeons, or Piccioni allo Spiedo: Pigeons are relatively easy to raise, and almost every old house out in the country has a piccionaia, a chamber built high under the eves with lots of small holes that the pigeons can come and go through. This particular recipe is from Breganze, in the Veneto.
Treviso's red radicchio has a delightful sharpness that beautifully balances the richness of duck, though chicken will also work well here. In either case, ask your butcher to bone the bird. Serves 4.
Squash Venetian Style, or Zucca alla Veneta: This is a classic Venetian side dish; the sweet-and-sour combination brings to mind another Venetian classic, Sogliole in Saòr, fried sole with a sweet-and-sour sauce. The squash must be of good quality, and if you want it zestier you can increase the vinegar to a cup. To serve 4:
Grilled Zucchini: One would think this an obvious dish, but it's not nearly as common as all that. The recipe is courtesy of Ivana, who prepared it for a wonderful meal in the hinterland of Verona. It's more of a procedure than a recipe.
Though baccalà generally means salted cod in Italy, the Veneti use the word to refer to dried cod, what is known as stoccafisso in standard Italian and stockfish in English. This said, Baccalà alla Vicentina is Vicenza's best known dish, a spectacular conversion of a tough, rather stringy fish into a creamy delight you may well find yourself dreaming about at night.
Fennel Salad, or Fenoci in Salata: To call this classic winter dish of the Vicentino a salad is actually something of a misnomer, because the fennel is cooked rather than served raw. It is, however, very good!
Artichokes in White Wine, or Cioci al Vin Bianco: Artichokes are among the most popular winter vegetables in the Vicentino, and Amadeo Sandri says the local custom is to clean them "perhaps too well," stripping almost all the leaves away to obtain what is primarily the choke. Here they are then cooked in white wine.
Polenta and Herring, or Polenta e Scopeton: Polenta with a little fish was one of the mainstays of the diet of the poor in northern Italy; I have talked to Piemontesi who remember their parents hanging a salted anchovy over the table when they were little, and using it to season firm polenta by rubbing the slices against the anchovy. Gently, to make the anchovy last for more than one meal. In the Vicentino, on the other hand, they used salted or smoked herring, and chopped it up.
Artichoke Lasagna, or Pasticio de Ciochi: This is an aristocratic dish; according to Amadeo Sandri, who learned to make it while serving his apprenticeship in a restaurant kitchen in Vicenza, it was developed by the cooks of one of Vicenza's leading families, the Marchesi Roi, who were renowned for the refinement of their dishes and their skill in combining ingredients and playing them off against each other.
Grilled Trout, or Trota in Gradela: This recipe from the Vicentino calls for fario trout, a variety that lives close to the bottom, in running water. They rarely exceed 8 inched in length, reach maturity at 2-3 years of age, and have firm, delicately flavored flesh ideally suited to the grill. In short, ideal for home or campground.
Kid Gambellara Style, or Cavreto de Gambellara: According to Amadeo Sandri, Gambellara is known for two things: Its wines, and stewed kid, which is marinated, shaped into a ring, put whole in a large copper pot, slowly cooked atop a wood-fired stove. The result is nicely browned, but also extraordinarily tender. Mr. Sandri instead prefers to spit roast his kid, burning hardwood to obtain the coals that supply the heat.
Tagliatelle with Peas, or Tajadele Coi Bisi: Peas are one of the most classic spring vegetables, and Lumigiano, in the Vicentino, is renowned for its peas. This is the town's signature dish.
Country-Style Rabbit, or Conejo a la Campagnola: In the Vicentino, says Amadeo Sandri, [i]El conejo[/i] is an institution; everyone who has the space builts a hutch and raises rabbits, magnificent animals that eat freshly gathered grasses from spring to fall, and hay and semolina pap during the winter months. Every couple of years friends and relatives exchange rabbits to prevent inbreeding, arranging the exchanges in the winter months, in front of the fireplace with a good glass of wine.
Stuffed Roast Chicken, or Polastro Imbotìo Rosto: [i]El polastro imbotìo xè el magnare de la domenega,[/i] stuffed chicken is the Sunday dinner, they say in the Vicentino, and therefore it had best be stuffed well. The stuffing in this case is not something meat-based to stretch the bird, but rather a combination of herbs, spices, and fat that flavor and tenderize the meat as it cooks. It's natural then that the chicken be young, and, ideally, free range.
Stuffed Pork Chops, or Brasole Col Pien: When the word braciola is used to describe a rolled up cutlet or chop, the recipe is usually south Italian. Not in this case, however; the recipe is from the Vicentino, and Amadeo Sandri says that the use of a little grappa gives the mushroomy filling "that distinctive touch".
Pork Stewed in Milk, or Mas-cio al Late: This is one of the most popular second course entrees in the restaurants of the Vicentino, and as a result there are many variations. Some use white wine rather than white wine vinegar, others omit the garlic, and others use pork loin rather than pork rump. In short, many tasty variations!
Beans in a Meatless Sauce, or Fasoi in Salsa de Magro: This is a classic recipe of the Veneto, and towards Venice proper they simply call it fasoi in salsa. As recipes go it's easy, but the beans do have to be first rate. Serve them with any pan-fried or grilled meat or fish, and if you have leftover beans rejoice, because they're even better reheated the next day.
Chicken Soup, or Supa de Polastrelo: Soups have always played a major role in the diet of the Veneto, in part because of the climate, which is conducive to hot soups, and in part because soups, as a group, tend to be economical. This particular soup is a little richer than most, due to its being made with a chicken, and would therefore have been for a special occasion in the past.
Barley Soup, or Minestron de Orzo: Barley is hardier than many other grains, and will grow up to considerable elevations -- as high as 1700 meters (a bit more than a mile), an altitude at which many other grains have difficulty growing. Because of this, many of the farmers in the mountains around Vicenza grow barley, and this is one of the standard soups. Tradition dictates one use the broth from boiling a cotechino, but regular meat broth is much easier to digest.
Pasta e Fagioli Vicentina Style, or Pasta e Fasui a la Visentina: Unlike most of the pasta e fagioli eaten in the Veneto, and, for that matter, in the rest of Italy, pasta e fagioli alla Vicentina is made with fresh egg noodles, which confer a particular texture to the soup. The beans are also important; Vicentini use borlotti from Lamon. In their absence, use cranberry beans.
Drunken Watermelon with Ice Cream, or Anguria Imbrigà col Gelato: This sounds quite modern, but is actually an old family recipe that Amadeo Sandri's grandmother used to prepare. It calls for light rum, and depending upon the age of the intended audience you can either increase or decrease the amount. To serve 6:
Fried Cream, or La Crema Fritta: Crema fritta, fried pastry cream, is standard street food throughout the Veneto, and you won't find a market or fair in winter that doesn't have a stall with someone selling crema fritta, golden diamonds that are oh so sweet, and oh so tasty. To make enough for 4:
Salaton de Capussi e Pomodori, or Cabbage and Tomato Salad: This is a classic late summer salad from the Vicentino. Amadeo Sandri suggests you use a long-bladed knife to cut the cabbage as thinly as possible, and also observes that the presence of raw tomato is a bit unusual for Northeastern Italy.
Bigoli with Duck, or Bigoli Co'l'Arna: Arna lessa e bigolo tondo, a la sera i contenta el mondo, "Boiled duck and round bigoli (thick stranded pasta), and in the evening the world's content," say the Veneti, and the proverb is especially well suited to this dish from Thiene, in the Vicentino.
This is a classic Jewish recipe from the Veneto, and may seem a little odd: Testine are not leaves, but rather the first half inch (1 cm) of the stem just above the roots of the plant, which one normally tosses when preparing spinach. Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa notes that to prepare the dish you'll need to start with many pounds of spinach, so this is something to make only when you're also making something else with spinach. In short, a testament to frugality.
In Italy struffoli are generally assumed to be Neapolitan Christmas treats. However, the concept, firm fried dough, is universal, and this variation is traditionally made by the Jewish population of Padova come Purim.
