Italians have been enjoying stuffed pasta for a long time -- In the Decamerone Boccaccio mentions a fabled land of well-being where cooks stand on a great mound of grated Parmigiano, making maccheroni and raviuoli they cook in capon broth, and everyone can take as much as they want... And ravioli are just the tip of an iceberg; there are also tortellini, pansotti, agnolotti, tordelli, cannelloni (manicotti in the US) and much more.
Liguria's ravioli are very simple, a mixture of greens and ricotta that's generally encased in a pasta shell, though some cooks simply shape the filling into tiny dumplings and call the ravioli "nudi," or naked. Both are good, and though I generally like them seasoned with butter, sage, and a little grated cheese, they can be wonderful with
walnut sauce as well, especially when it's cold out.
The Bolognesi, who lay claim to tortellini, are fun-loving in a saucy sort of way, and attribute the shape of tortellini to Giuseppe Cerri, a one-eyed innkeper who claimed to have been inspired by a vision of Venus's navel. They're filled with a mixture of ground meats and are wonderful in broth, though you can also serve them in a cream sauce. And indeed many people do.
It might seem a little odd to fill a pasta shell with a mixture long on potatoes -- starch on starch, as it were -- but the combination makes sense when you realize they're winter fare from the mountains above Lucca, where people need something rich, and these are when served with meat sauce, to keep the chill at bay. In short, comfort food.
These are meat-filled Milanese ravioli, and they're quite simple. Tasty too, and they will go nicely with the drippings from a roast or even melted butter. Or, if you want to try something unusual, serve them in a bowl, with light, zesty unoaked Barbera to cover. I had my doubts when a winemaker presented me with a bowl thus prepared, but asked for more.
Tortelli filled with squash are one of the signature dishes of the city of Mantova, in Northern Italy, and the recipe is quite old, as is shown by its sweetness. They offer a beautiful change of pace given the generally savory character of Italian foods, and have a wonderful exotic touch as well.
Agnolotti are Piemontesi, and are generally made with a
meat filling and served with the drippings from a roast. They can be just as nice when filled with cheese, however.
Crespelle are the Italian equivalent of crepes, and were once -- before Suzette -- considered poor people's food. They can be either sweet or savory, and if you are making them as a first course, you will want the savory variety. We generally fill them with a
creamy ricotta-and-greens filling, though any manicotti filling will work. And atop? Bechamel sauce, a dusting of grated Parmigiano, and a quick browning in the oven.
Cannelloni, which are known as manicotti in some parts of the world, are one of the ultimate banquet dishes: They look great, taste great, and are easy to prepare. You can use the cheese and greens filling mentioned above, but this is nice too.
We'll close with a couple of distinctly different variations. Panzarotti are Neapolitan, and, unlike most Italian pasta, are fried. Excellent party food, and also perfect in a platter of mixed fried meats.
This is, well, involved. But it's also very nice, and will be the hit of a festive winter meal. Expect people to ask for more, and some stalwarts may want more yet again.
