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Favorite Winter Stews

To Keep The Chill At Bay

By Kyle Phillips, About.com

When it gets cold out, and possibly wet -- what Italians call tempo da lupi, wolf weather, the best thing to do is break out the stew pot, prepare the requisite meat, herbs, and veggies, and set it all to simmering. The bubbling pot will warm your kitchen and perhaps even your house, the aromas will whet your appetite, and when it all gets to the table (with a steaming pot of polenta...), it will being comfort and joy.

1. Peposo

As you might guess, peposo is a spicy stew that derives its punch from whole peppercorns. An Italian chili, you might think, but it's actually much older: Brunelleschi, who built Florence's cathedral, liked it so much that he arranged to feed his workers peposo.

2. Graziella's Ossibuchi al Sugo

Ossibuchi are veal or beef shanks, and though one generally encounters them seasoned with a lemon and herb mixture (see below), I also very much like the way my mother-in-law does them.

3. Pollo alla Cacciatora, or Chicken Cacciatore

Everybody has a recipe for Chicken Cacciatore, and they're all different. Here are two, one simple and the other more elaborate.

4. Wild Boar with Juniper Berries, or Cinghiale al Ginepro

Juniper berries are traditionally used in cooking boar, hare, and other game. Should boar not be available where you live, this will work well with venison too.

5. Brasato al Barolo

Brasato al Barolo is one of the classic, elegant Piemontese dishes, and really does require a good bottle of wine (ideally Barolo, and you'll want a second bottle to drink with the brasato) to come out right. Nothing seems to warm the house more.

6. Pastissada de Caval

Yes, caval means horse, and this is indeed a traditional Veronese horsemeat stew, made with Amarone wine and paprica to taste -- the former local, and the latter revealing Austro-Hungarian influences from the period when the Veneto was part of the Austrian empire.
If the idea of eating horse bothers you, you can use beef instead -- it won't be quite as rich in iron, but will still be very good.

7. Boar Cooked Between Two Flames, or Cinghiale Fra Due Fuoch

Wild boar is an interesting meat. It's more strongly flavored than pork but obviously from a similar animal, and quite a bit firmer -- the animal was wandering around, after all, and had ample opportunity to tone its muscles. Consequently, boar requires marinating to tenderize it. This recipe from Artusi will also work well with hare or other furred game, and semi-captive animals such as wild pigs.

8. Ossibuchi alla Milanese

This is one of the most classic north Italian recipes for veal shanks, in which the richness of the shanks is deftly balanced by a combination of lemon and herbs. Though Artusi said it's best left to the Milanese, he also gave three recipes for them. Yes, they're that good. Serve them with plain rice, or risotto alla milanese.

9. Ghisau

This is a tomatoey beef stew from Sardegna, and is one of those dishes that gets better and better as it cooks.

10. Lamb Stew with Potatoes -- Abbacchio in Spezzatino con Patate

If you're planning to serve lamb, but haven't yet decided how, Ada Boni is an excellent person to turn to. This is actually more of a comfort food than something one might want to serve up to guests, but it is very good.

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