Boghe, or Bogues

Alan Davidson says the flavor of bogues varies depending upon what they have eaten, and adds that though some like them, he had never come across one that had "eaten consistently with good judgment." In short, there are prized fish, and then there are fish you buy because fish is good for you and the price is right. Bogues fall into this latter category.

Bogues are at their best in the fall, and this is when you should buy them. And also be careful in selecting other fish, in particular sprat and sea bream, because fishmongers have been known to "mislabel" their bogues. To avoid confusion, remember that bogues have golden stripes running down their sides.

The right season, and they are bogues? This recipe is from Pisa, on the Tuscan coast:

Boghe al Pomodoro - Bogues in Tomato Sauce

To serve 4:
8 bogues, weighing about 1/4 pound (100 g) each, cleaned and scaled
2 plum tomatoes, either fresh -- blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped -- or if need be canned, seeded and chopped
A large white onion
A small bunch of parsley, minced
Extravirgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Toasted bread

Chop the onion and sauté it over a medium flame in a quarter cup of hot olive oil for about 20 minutes, stirring it about every now and then lest it burn.

Add the tomatoes and continue cooking for 20 minutes more, stirring lest the sauce stick; if it looks too dry add a little hot water. Season the sauce to taste and lay the fish flat in the pot. Cook them for about 10 minutes, turning them once.

Dust the fish with the parsley and serve them with toasted bread.

Last note: The scientific name for bogues is the improbable sounding Boops boops, which is in reference to the fish's large, ox-like eyes.

Bogue on About:
Greek fried bogue (and other fish).

How to Select Fresh Fish
How to Serve a Whole Fish at Table
Other Fish Recipes