Fried Meats

Delfina-Style Stuffed Meat, or Carne Farcita alla Delfina: This is a tasty dish that will work nicely as an antipasto, in a Piemontese fritto misto, and will also serve to perk up tired appetites.

Stuffed Cannoli, or Cannoli Farciti: Most cannoli are sweet, the glorious ricotta-filled Sicilian Carnival pastries. Not all, however, this savory cannolo recipe is from Cavalcanti, the great 19th century Neapolitan gastronome; the recipe will serve 6, and will be a delightful part of a platter of mixed fried foods for a larger party.

Fritto di Lesso alla Milanese, or Fried Boiled Meat, Milanese Style: One of the delights and drawbacks of making broth at home is having to deal with the boiled meat you also get from the process. While it is quite nice served as is with a variety of sauces and boiled vegetables, one can only do this so often before it becomes tiring. Here's a traditional Milanese option.

The translation of the name is literal; the happy diners traditionally consume this Neapolitan fritto misto as the just-fried foods are skimmed from the pot and drained. This of course means that the cook eats separately (if at all), unless everyone moves to the kitchen or you have a portable burner set you can set up where you're dining. The Neapolitan oil of choice is rendered lard, but you are quite free to use peanut oil or whatever other oil you prefer.

This is sumptuous and extremely varied, with a pleasing combination of sweet and savory. It's ideally suited for an important occasion, and will work best with a good Dolcetto or unoaked Barbera. The organ meats may be hard to find, but will add variety. If you chose not to include them increase the other meats, or add something else, for example slices of turkey breast and chicken drumsticks. The important thing is that there be balance...

Making flavored breadcrumbs for breading fried foods, sprinkling over casseroles, or using in fillings is quick and easy. They also make nice gifts.

A breaded veal cutlet is simple, but can reach great heights.

Veal cutlets, breaded, with cheese, tomato and prosciutto.

"Anyone can make a veal cutlet," says Artusi, who proposes a tasty variation.

Again a breaded veal cutlet, this time with prosciutto.

Cutlets folded over slices of cheese, breaded, and fried: Tremendously satisfying!

Zesty fried chicken commonly served at the Festival of Lights.

This is an Italian take on Kentucky Fried Chicken, and while it is simpler than the original -- there are fewer herbs and spices than the 11 the secret recipe supposedly has -- and it is fried in a regular deep fat frier rather than a pressure frier, it is very tasty.

One wouldn't expect fried meatballs to work with a sparkling wine, but Franciacorta Satèn can match them.

Portafogli are similar to involtini -- both are made using cutlets, veal in this case -- but whereas the involtino is a cutlet or scallop spread with a filling and rolled up, the portafoglio is simply folded over the filling, making a wallet. These will be a nice variation in a family meal, and could also -- if you halve the recipe -- be nice...