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Venison, wildcat, snails, and more

In addition to the "standard" veal, pork, beef and poultry, there are a great many Italian recipes for various kinds of game, especially venison. Also, recipes for other unusual meats.
Roast Wild Boar with Apples Recipe - Cinghiale alle Mele
Pork and apples is one of the most standard combinations in cooking, and it should come as no surprise that wild boar will also work well with apples. Tangy apples, for example Granny Smiths, whose tang will balance the richness of the meat.
Roman-Style Sweet and Sour Boar Recipe - Cinghiale alla Romana in Agrodolce
Italian sweet-and-sour and sweet-and-pungent recipes tend to be quite old, deriving from the aristocratic Middle Eastern custom of using sugar as a sort of "sweet salt," which the Crusaders discovered and brought home with them. They're no longer as popular as they once were -- tastes have changed, and now Italians prefer more savory dishes -- but they still offer a delightful change of pace.
Aspromonte-Style Roast Boar Recipe - Cinghiale All'Aspromonte
The Aspromonte is Calabria's central mountainous massif, and the name -- literally, "The Bitter Mountain" gives an idea of how rugged the topography is and how harsh the conditions are. One of the creatures that roams the mountains is the wild boar, and this is a simple recipe for roast sella di cinghiale, or rack of wild boar.
Wild Boar with Forest Berries Recipe - Cinghiale Ai Frutti Di Bosco
This is an easy recipe for wild boar with blueberries, but does require 48 hours of marinating time.
Wild Boar with Juniper Berries -- Cinghiale al Ginepro
Wild Boar with Juniper Berries, or Cinghiale al Ginepro: Juniper berries are traditionally used in cooking boar, hare, and other game. Should boar not be available where you live, this will work well with venison too.
Braised Mountain Goat -- Stambecco Brasato
Braised Mountain Goat, or Stambecco Brasato: A classic recipe from the Val D'Aosta; it will also work with venison, and if I lived where caribou were available I would consider it too.
Roe Buck Boscaiola Style -- Capriolo alla Boscaiola
Roe Buck Boscaiola Style, or Capriolo alla Boscaiola: Mountains have game, and they also have mushrooms in the underbrush of the wooded slopes. This recipe is from the Val D'Aosta, and calls for the hindquarter of a young buck; you'll want a boneless or bone-in venison roast weighing 6-8 pounds (3-4 k).
Venison Ribs -- Costolette di Cervo
Venison Ribs, or Costolette di Cervo: Agnello scottadito is lamb chops grilled over the coals, and is a great delicacy. This version, made with venison chops, is from Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Venison Goulash -- Goulasch di Cervo
Venison Goulash, Goulasch di Cervo: Though people generally associate goulash with Hungary, it's also popular in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy's northeasternmost region, which was an Austrian province until the end of the First World War.
Roast Roe Buck -- Capriolo al Forno
Roast Roe Buck, or Capriolo al Forno: Classic mountain cooking from Friuli Venezia Giulia.
Roe Buck Salmì Friulana Style -- Salmì di Capriolo alla Friulana
Roe Buck Salmì Friulana Style, or Salmì di Capriolo alla Friulana: Cottura in salmì, cooking in salmì, is a traditional technique for marinating game, especially furred game, so as to complement and balance the gaminess wild meats can display. It's analogous to the Piemontese (and French) cottura in civet, and is quite different from the French Salmis technique, which calls for partially roasting feathered game, and then boning the meat and cooking it in a sauce.
Chamois Civet -- Civet di Camoscio
Chamois Civet, or Civet di Camoscio: Cottura in civet, cooking in civet, is a Piemontese (and French) technique for preparing furred game -- hare, venison, mountain goat, and so on -- by marinating it with wine, herbs, in particular juniper berries, and onions -- the word civet derives from the Latin cepa, onion. The wine is generally red and full bodied, though strong white wines can be used, and the marinade is added to the pot after the meat has browned.
Venison with Juniper Berries -- Cervo al Ginepro
Venison with Juniper Berries, or Cervo al Ginepro: There are lots of deer in Piemonte, or at least there used to be; I saw a documentary about the House of Savoy (who were also Kings of Piemonte, and, subsequently, Italy), whose princes were passionate hunters and had decorated an entire villa with racks of antlers. As for juniper berries, they're one of the classic berries used to marinate all kinds of furred game.
Stewed Venison with Mushrooms -- Cervo Stufato ai Funghi
Stewed Venison with Mushrooms, Cervo Stufato ai Funghi: This is a classic recipe that Mr. Vialardi would have had ample occasion to make: King Vittorio Emanuele was a passionate hunter, and was also blessed with fine aim. Mr. Vialardi doesn't say what kind of mushrooms to use. Porcini would be nice, as would any flavorful wild mushroom. Serve the stew with polenta.
Stewed Boar -- Cinghiale in Umido
Stewed Boar, or Cinghiale in Umido: Tuscany is crawling with boar, and the Apuans are no exception; this recipe is from the mountains overlooking the coastal plain to the west of Lucca. You'll need well aged meat to do it justice; either ask your butcher to age it for you, or keep the meat in your refrigerator, covered, for several days after you get it home.
Boar in a Sweet-and-Pungent Sauce -- Cinghiale in Salsa Agrodolce
Boar in a Sweet-and-Pungent Sauce, or Cinghiale in Salsa Agrodolce: This is an extremely old recipe, with a concept -- the contraposition of sweet and pungent -- that dates to the time of the Crusades, when the knights returned home from the Holy Land influenced by aristocratic Middle Eastern traditions, which included using sugar as a sort of sweet salt (the use of vinegar was instead dictated by the need to preserve meat before the days of refrigeration)...
Culatello & Picula de Caval
Culatello & Picula de Caval: Thoughts about one of Parma's great delicacies, and a tasty Emilian horsemeat stew.
Boar Cooked Between Two Flames -- Cinghiale Fra Due Fuochi
Boar Cooked Between Two Flames, or Cinghiale Fra Due Fuochi: Wild boar is an interesting meat. It's more strongly flavored than pork but obviously from a similar animal, and quite a bit firmer -- the animal was wandering around, after all, and had ample opportunity to tone its muscles. Consequently, boar requires marinating to tenderize it. This recipe from Artusi will also work well with hare or other furred game, and semi-captive animals such as wild pigs.
Wildcat -- Gattu Serivaggiu
Don’t blanch; up until the 1950s most Calabrians who lived in the country ate meat once a week if that, and depended upon sheep and goats for much of their protein (through milk as well as meat). They would have of course attempted to kill any local predators, and having done so would then have eaten their catch. This can also be done with hare, rabbit, game or chicken. If you are using game rinse the meat and marinate it for a day to reduce the gamy flavor.
Pastissada de Caval
Yes, caval means horse, and this is indeed a traditional Veronese horsemeat stew, made with Amarone wine and paprica to taste -- the former local, and the latter revealing Austro-Hungarian influences from the period when the Veneto was part of the Austrian empire. If the idea of eating horse bothers you, you can use beef instead -- it won't be quite as rich in iron, but will still be good.
Polenta with Snails: Polentone con Lumache
Snails and polenta, rustic fare for a Friday meal up in the mountains where there wasn't any fish. And instructions on preparing snails.

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