Mention the word gnocchi and most people now think of something made with potatoes, because that's what usually appears. However, the word gnocco actually means dumpling, and dumplings -- tiny dumplings in this case, given the diminutive etti suffix -- can be made from anything.
In Cimbria, the mountainous region between Vicenza and Verona, people make them with flour, and Michela Chiarolaro was delighted to discover them at a course held by Amedeo Sarri, one of the foremost experts on the foods and traditions of the region.
In Cimbria, the mountainous region between Vicenza and Verona, people make them with flour, and Michela Chiarolaro was delighted to discover them at a course held by Amedeo Sarri, one of the foremost experts on the foods and traditions of the region.
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:
- ** For the Gnocchetti **
- 2 cups and 1 tablespoon (250 g) unbleached all purpose flour
- An egg
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2/3 cup wild fennel or cumin infusion (instructions below)
- A pinch each salt and nutmeg
- ** For the Sauce **
- A 1 2/3 pound (750 g) cauliflower
- The white part of 2 leeks
- 3 slices of lemon zest, yellow part only
- About a quarter of an apple
- Olive oil
- 1/4 pound (100 g) pancetta stufata or lightly smoked ham
- A bay leaf
- Freshly grated smoked ricotta, or the grating cheese of choice
Preparation:
Continuing with the introduction, gnocchetti Cimbri is one of Michela's favorite winter dishes, and has also become a favorite of people who come to dine at Palazzetto Ardi, the Agriturismo she and her husband Carlo Sitizia run just outside Vicenza.With respect to potato gnocchi, gnocchetti Cimbri are much quicker: She started out by setting a big pot of water on the stove, and by the time it had come to a boil both the batter and the sauce were ready. And the results are wonderful!
And now, the recipe:
First, to make the infusion, steep a handful of wild fennel fronds or 3 tablespoons fennel or cumin seeds in a pint of boiling water. Filter when cool, and use the remainder in other dishes that will benefit from the flavor.
Next, set a big pot of water to boil.
Combine the ingredients for the gnocchetti in a deep bowl and mixed them for 3-5 minutes or so to obtain a batter. Let it rest while seeing to the sauce.
Discard the green part of the leeks and finely slice the white part. Next, wash the cauliflower and break it up into florets; put them in a steamer basket. Slice the pancetta stufata, a cooked pancetta that closely resembles lightly smoked ham in flavor and consistency.
The next step is to steam the cauliflower; to add to its flavor put several strips of lemon zest and about a quarter apple in the pot before putting the steamer basket into it. You'll want to steam the florets for about 10 minutes, or, if you are rushed, you can pressure steam them for about 5 minutes.
While the cauliflower florets were steaming, sprinkle a quarter cup of olive oil into a large skillet, add the bay leaf and the leeks, and as soon as they began to sputter, turned the heat down to keep them from browning -- they should simply wilt gently. After about 5 minutes, add the pancetta and mixed well. And as soon as the florets are steamed, add them to the pot too, together with another quarter cup of olive oil, and check seasoning. To make the gnocchetti you will need either a gnocchetto maker or something that will work in its stead, say a cylindrical cookie press with a holed disk at the end (use a knife to cut the batter that emerges from the blebs into bits -- this is an occasion for a couple to cook together), or use a pastry bag with a disk that has several holes instead of a nozzle.
Make the gnocchetti by dropping the blebs of batter into boiling lightly salted water. They will rise to the surface immediately, but need to cook for 7-8 minutes. Use a large wire mesh strainer to scoop the gnocchetti from the boiling water and transfer them to the sauce pot. Mix well.
Divvy the gnocchetti onto plates, dust them with grated cheese -- Michela likes to use smoked ricotta, which complements the other flavors. A mild Romano would also be nice. The wine? White; Carlo and Michela make a Garganega, which is the grape that is used to make Soave.
Enjoy!
