The signature sauce of Ligurian cuisine, pesto is also an expression of the land, which though beautiful is harsh, with mountains that plunge into the sea, and steep-sided valleys inland. There's not much in the way of arable land and the Ligurians learned to draw the most from what little nature provided -- primarily herbs and greens.
As is the case with most regional specialties, pesto varies considerably from cook to cook; though basil always predominates, some prefer more genteel sauces and other prefer the rustic heartiness conferred by lots of garlic. Nuts are also an important component; most cooks prefer pinoli, the pine nuts from the cones of umbrella pines, though some add walnuts too.
And finally there is the cheese. In the past Ligurians imported pecorino, a firm, fairly sharp sheep's milk cheese, from Sardegna. It was expensive, however, and those who couldn't afford it used Bra, a firm moderately sharp cow's milk cheese from Piemonte, instead. More recently people have begun to include Parmigiano Reggiano, which is more expensive but adds a special something that pesto lacks otherwise.
Which should you use? Depends upon your taste; a mixture of freshly grated pecorino sardo or toscano (romano would be too sharp) and Parmigiano Reggiano is extremely nice. You can, if you like, substitute freshly grated Grana Padano for Parmigiano. Don't use pregrated cheese (especially not the stuff sold in shakers), because it won't do the sauce justice.
The quality of the basil is also paramount: It must be fresh, and it must have a bracing, zesty basil aroma. If it looks wilted or lacks the aroma it won't do. This means that the sauce is best made in the summer, when basil is at its freshest and most fragrant.
However, a friend whose mother is Ligurian told me she makes several jars of pesto without cheese each August and sets them aside, pouring a thin layer of olive oil over the top of each to seal it from the air. When she wants paste al pesto in the winter, she stirs in the cheese and the sauce is ready.
Recipes with Pesto or Basil
- Minestrone al Pesto
A rich, summery Ligurian variation on Italy's signature soup. - Spaghetti al Pesto: A Ligurian classic that's perfect for summer.
- Trenette col Pesto: Similar to spaghetti al pesto, but with the addition of string beans and potatoes to the pasta. Very nice, and healthy too.
- Trenette con le Melanzane: Another Ligurian specialty, trenette (thin linguine) with eggplant and pesto sauce. And again, quite healthy.
- Spaghetti Verdi: A refreshing summer sauce, with lots of celery in a smooth pesto base.
- Testaroli al Pesto: Spectacular pauper's food from Lunigiana, a tasty precursor to pasta that's perfect with pesto.
- Lasagne al Pesto: The Ligurian take on a perennial favorite.
- Riso con Basilico e pomodoro: Pesto adds a special twist to standard tomatoey rice.
- Tacchino al Basilico
Roast turkey drumsticks with basil-creamed butter (this will also work well with chicken).
