Il Natale in Dalmazia

One might not think so today, but until World War II Italy extended at least culturally, if not politically, far down the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea, into what are now Slovenia and Croatia: During their heyday the Venetians made all of the Adriatic Sea into their personal lake, securing the eastern coast with a series of fortified towns that kept the peoples living inland -- Slavs, Albanians, Greeks and whoever -- from preying upon their shipping, and provided their captains with an ample selection of beautiful ports to rely upon in times of need.

The decline of the Repubblica della Serenissima that began in the 1600s didn't change the situation that much in the northern part of the eastern Adriatic: With time the Austro-Hungarians took over, but the people living in the coastal towns continued to think and talk as they always had -- in Venetian and Italian. And they rejoiced when Italy sat with the victors of the Great War, demanding (and getting) control of the sections of the Austrian Empire that spoke Italian -- Gorizia, Trieste, and Dalmazia, the coastal region of what is now Croatia.

Alas, during the Second World War Italy was on the wrong side; under the guise of rooting out Fascists Tito's Partisans drove the Italians out of Dalmatia, and now everything is different -- Zara, the capital, has become Zadar, the language and customs have changed, and with them so have the traditions.

Gioia Calussi was one of the lucky ones who managed to escape; over the years she talked with other survivors, watching them cook, jotting down their recollections, and has assembled everything into a beautiful book entitled Sapori de Dalmazia (MGS Press, Trieste, 1997; ISBN 88-86424-43-4). It's interesting reading, and though many of the recipes might not seem particularly Italian -- there's precious little tomato, and sauerkraut appears often either as an ingredient or as a side dish -- one has to remember that the area was a crossroads where both Austrians and Slavs left their mark. She doesn't present a Christmas menu per se, but does note which recipes people enjoyed during the Holidays, and here is a selection:

Broeta de Verza de Magro
A meatless cabbage soup that was prepared for all the days of Vigil when meat was to be avoided, and especially Christmas Eve, when the chill of the Bora (a strong wind from the east) gives the cabbage added bite. You will need the broth from boiling a fish.
Difficulty: Easy

Bisato Fritto, and instructions for frying fish
Bisato is Dalmatian for eel, and fried eel was one of the standard Christmas Eve dishes among the Italians who lived in the region. Gioia Colussi also gives excellent instructions for frying fish. Difficulty: Moderate-Intermediate.

Rambascìci: Stuffed Cabbage Leaves
Though one might expect richer fare for Christmas Day, these stuffed cabbage leaves were one of the standard dishes among the Italians living in Dalmatia, perhaps because they were introduced by those who fought the Turks in the mountains.

Dindio
Dindio means turkey in the dialect spoken among Dalmatians of Italian origin, and a roasted turkey was one of the standard winter holiday dishes. The birds of Dalmatia were small, and the stuffing is simple, but the results sound tasty indeed.
Difficulty: Moderate.

Imbragioni
Anise-laced Christmas cookies from the Isle of Veglia, which were usually dipped into either Vinsanto, Prosecco, or Marsala.
Difficulty: Easy

Buzzolai
Buzzolai are ring-shaped cookies, and were an essential part of every festivity in Dalmatia.
Difficulty: Intermediate.

Mostarda
Mostarda, candied fruit that gains a healthy zing from mustard seed, is common throughout northern Italy, and likely goes a long way back. This particular recipe is Dalmatian, and makes use of honey and quinces.
Difficulty: Moderate.

Auguri e Buon Appetito!

Kyle Phillips

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