A Caccia! (Hunting!)

When I was little, my father and I used to join Italian friends on hunts. I was much too young to carry a gun, and my father had had enough of hunting by the time he left Vermont, so for us these were long walks in the countryside with the added bonus of bringing something home for the pot. Not much water in that part of Tuscany, and as a consequence, fagiano, pheasant, was the most hoped-for prize. A few days later, if we were lucky, we'd be invited to lunch.

Why not immediately? Because it takes a few days before most game birds are ready to eat; if they're cooked up the day they're caught there's a good chance the meat will be dry and lacking in flavor. If you buy game birds -- if you visit an Italian market you will find them on display -- they will already be ready, but if you catch your own, or are given some, you will have to hang them for a few days to ripen them. Italians generally draw birds before they hang them (the old Joy of Cooking says not to, and it's your choice).

In any case, assuming the hunter split the neck and drained the blood immediately after catching the bird, you simply hang it by the neck in a cool, well ventilated, dry place, after putting it in a muslin bag to protect it from insects. Don't have a place like this? Then use the warmest part of your refrigerator.

For how long? This depends upon a number of factors.

• First, the age of the bird; younger birds ripen faster than older ones.
• Second, temperature: if it's warm and muggy the bird will ripen faster than if it's cold and dry.
• Third, personal taste: some people like to ripen their birds until head and body part company, but the vast majority find this to be too much.
• Finally, cooking technique. A bird that will be stewed should be hung longer than one that will be roasted.

A good empirical test for a degree of ripeness most will find acceptable is to pull on the feathers just above the tail; if they come out easily the bird is ready. For a pheasant this will take 2-3 days.

And at this point it needs to be plucked.

Italian cookbooks generally suggest a hot water method, which has you dunk the bird into boiling water, and then immediately into cold water, after which you begin to pluck small bunches of feathers (what you can pinch between thumb and forefinger), starting with the tail, using sharp tugs against the grain to pull the feathers free, and working up the bird, redipping the feathered parts occasionally. When you get to the neck, stop, remove it, and then cut off the feet as well. Next, pick out any remaining feathers with tweezers and flame the bird to remove fuzz.

This technique is fine if you are going to cook the bird immediately after plucking it, but it causes the fat under the skin to begin to break down, so if you're going to cook the bird even a short while later you should dry pluck it: To do so,chill the bird thoroughly, and then pluck as above, working against the grain. If the under feathers are small and downy, you can pluck the larger,coarser feathers, and then make a slurry by heating 1/2 pound (250 g) paraffin with 2 gallons (8 liters) of boiling water. Brush enough of the slurry over the bird to cover it well, let it cool until it has formed a hard crust, and pull it off. The feathers will come with it. When you have finished plucking the bird, remove the feet and cut off the head and neck.

Your bird is ready! What next?

Wrapped Pheasant - Fagiano al Cartoccio
The cartoccio technique, baking food in a wrapper, is generally employed with fish or pasta, with the wrapper being opened at table to the delight of the diners. However, it's also a good way to keep delicate meats from over browning in the oven, and that is what it does here. This recipe is Umbrian, and will serve 6; you could also use gunea hen or chicken.

Spit-Roasted Pheasant - Fagiano allo Spiedo
Spit roasting goes way back, to when our ancestors lived in caves, and remains one of the tastiest and easiest ways to cook meat; the only thing you have to be careful of is not getting the meat too close to the coals, or it will burn on the outside before the inside is cooked. Though this recipe from Lazio calls for pheasant, it will also work with guinea hen, and chicken too.

Pheasant in Salmì - Fagiano in Salmì
A salmì is a wine-based marinade with various herbs for game that's common throughout much of North and Italy (the name derives from the French salmis), and though its most common use is in the preparation of hare, it will also work quite well with feathered game, in this case pheasant, though one oculd also use gunea hen or chicken if need be.

Pheasant Stuffed with Walnuts - Fagiano Ripieno con le Noci
This isn't an easy recipe, but is very good, and most impressive. In other words, ideal for a special occasion. If need be you could also use guinea hen or even chicken.

Stuffed Pheasant - Fagiano Ripieno
There are an infinite number of stuffed bird recipes. This is from Friuli Venezia Giulia, and includes a little grappa in the stuffing. If you don't have grappa, brandy will work, as will bourbon. The truffle is optional, but will contribute to a festive occasion. Though the recipe calls for pheasant, it will also work with guinea hen, and chicken too.

Pheasant with Cognac and Mascarpone - Fagiano al Cognac e Mascarpone
Pheasant is both tasty and elegant, and lends itself to many elegant preparations. This, with creamy, delicate mascarpone cheese, is from Lombardia; though the recipe calls for pheasant, it will also work with guinea hen, and one could use free range chicken too.