Roast game birds are among the most classic of all Italian dishes, and when I was a boy I used to go out into the Tuscan countryside with friends who hunted; they (wisely) never let me fire a gun, but the walks were wonderful and the meals we enjoyed (Piera, Angelo's wife, decided when the catch had aged enough and was ready for the fire). As is often the case with traditional dishes, Artusi is an excellent cook to turn to for advice, and also for a quick look at life in times of yore:
Ingredients:
- See Below
Preparation:
The birds should be fresh and fat, but above all fresh. In those areas where they're sold ready plucked, you have to be careful to avoid being hoodwinked. If they look greenish or their bellies are darkened, give them a wide berth. Woodcock and pheasant may be exceptions to this rule, as it seems that, in addition to becoming tender, they take on a distinctive flavor when they are well aged. This is especially true of pheasant, if it's aged without being plucked. Take care not to let the aging exceed the first phase of putrefaction, however.
The birds, be they doves, larks, or smaller creatures, should never be gutted (modern cooks do clean them). Before spitting them, prepare them as follows: fold their wings over their backs, so each can hold one or two leaves of sage. Cut the feet off at the ankles and cross the legs, passing one knee over the other and hooking the bones through the tendons to keep them in place, and insert another leaf of sage in the hollow thus formed. Wrap the breasts of the birds with paper-thin salted slices of lard. Now spit them, putting the larger ones in the middle of the spit, and separating them with half inch thick slices of day old bread.
Cook the birds over hot coals, and, if you haven't stuck their beaks into their sternums, begin by keeping them head down so that their necks will stiffen and their heads won't bob. Baste them once, when they begin to brown, using a brush or feather so as to avoid basting the bread, which will be seasoned enough by its contact with the lard. Salt them just once. Set the birds on the fire just before you'll want them, since they will cook quickly, and if they're done too soon they may well dry out. Slide them from the spit directly onto the platter, because they look more impressive when they're all lined up.
With regards to roast duck or mallard, which tastes wild, some squeeze a lemon over them when they begin to brown, and baste them with the lemon juice and drippings that collect in the dripping pan.
Roast game birds will be done in less than a half hour. Duck will take longer; at least an hour; it's done when a skewer inserted into a joint draws clear juices.
Thus end Artusi's instructions, and as I reread them, I see they do need clarification in one important point: Astusi says to put the birds over the coals. If you do this, the drippings will go straight into the fire. Instead, arrange the coals in a line, and put your spit in front of it, 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) above your hearth, at a point where the heat is such that you can hold your hand for 4-5 seconds. Set a ghiotta (a long, thin rectangular pan that serves to catch the drippings) under the birds, and begin cooking.
A few more observations:
Giovanni Righi Parenti, the author of La Cucina Toscana, says that really small birds shouldn't be gutted before they're spitted, though he does admit a little sausage meat and a sage leaf in the cavities of doves or larger birds; he then says that the game birds put on the spit need not be of the same kind, but should be of the same weight so they will cook at the same rate. He also says to baste them frequently, and says to go more easily on the salt if you are basting with pan drippings, which will have absorbed some salt as they drip from the birds. If you instead use olive oil to baste the birds, you can salt a little more to replace what runs off. Don't skimp on the basting lest the meat, especially that of the backs, dry out. In terms of cooking times over the coals, a half hour will be enough for doves, while 20 minutes will be sufficient for smaller birds. As a test for doneness, remove a thigh from one of the birds; there should be no blood. Mr. Parenti says to serve them with a green salad.
Neither Mr. Parenti nor Artusi say what to do if you don't have hot coals for roasting. Preheat your oven to 450 F (225 C), and spit the birds if you oven has a spit attachment; otherwise put them on a rack. Roast the birds for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 (175 C). If the birds are really small and unstuffed, they'll take another 5 minutes, while unstuffed quail will require 10-15. Stuffed quail will require about 20, and a pigeon about a half hour; don't forget to baste or the meat will dry out. Duck will take about an hour, and you might want to prick the skin of the back with a fork towards the end of the cooking with a fork to let the fat drain.
Nor do they say much about roasting a guinea hen. By comparison with chicken it's much leaner, and this is especially true for the breast meat, so you should wrap the bird in finely sliced cured lard, fatty pancetta, or fatty prosciutto. A slice or two of pancetta or lard (or an uncased mild Italian sausage) in the cavity won't hurt, and don't forget to season the cavity with salt and pepper. Once the bird is seasoned truss it, spit it, and roast it over hot coals, basting often, until the juices run clear if you insert a skewer into a joint. If you are oven roasting the bird, heat your oven to 450 F (225 C), prepare the bird, put it in a pan, and put everything in your oven. Immediately lower the heat to 350 F (175 C) and roast the guinea hen until the juices run clear, which will take 30-45 minutes depending upon the bird's size. To brown the skin, remove the fat in which you wrapped the bird 10-15 minutes before it's done.
The birds, be they doves, larks, or smaller creatures, should never be gutted (modern cooks do clean them). Before spitting them, prepare them as follows: fold their wings over their backs, so each can hold one or two leaves of sage. Cut the feet off at the ankles and cross the legs, passing one knee over the other and hooking the bones through the tendons to keep them in place, and insert another leaf of sage in the hollow thus formed. Wrap the breasts of the birds with paper-thin salted slices of lard. Now spit them, putting the larger ones in the middle of the spit, and separating them with half inch thick slices of day old bread.
Cook the birds over hot coals, and, if you haven't stuck their beaks into their sternums, begin by keeping them head down so that their necks will stiffen and their heads won't bob. Baste them once, when they begin to brown, using a brush or feather so as to avoid basting the bread, which will be seasoned enough by its contact with the lard. Salt them just once. Set the birds on the fire just before you'll want them, since they will cook quickly, and if they're done too soon they may well dry out. Slide them from the spit directly onto the platter, because they look more impressive when they're all lined up.
With regards to roast duck or mallard, which tastes wild, some squeeze a lemon over them when they begin to brown, and baste them with the lemon juice and drippings that collect in the dripping pan.
Roast game birds will be done in less than a half hour. Duck will take longer; at least an hour; it's done when a skewer inserted into a joint draws clear juices.
Thus end Artusi's instructions, and as I reread them, I see they do need clarification in one important point: Astusi says to put the birds over the coals. If you do this, the drippings will go straight into the fire. Instead, arrange the coals in a line, and put your spit in front of it, 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) above your hearth, at a point where the heat is such that you can hold your hand for 4-5 seconds. Set a ghiotta (a long, thin rectangular pan that serves to catch the drippings) under the birds, and begin cooking.
A few more observations:
Giovanni Righi Parenti, the author of La Cucina Toscana, says that really small birds shouldn't be gutted before they're spitted, though he does admit a little sausage meat and a sage leaf in the cavities of doves or larger birds; he then says that the game birds put on the spit need not be of the same kind, but should be of the same weight so they will cook at the same rate. He also says to baste them frequently, and says to go more easily on the salt if you are basting with pan drippings, which will have absorbed some salt as they drip from the birds. If you instead use olive oil to baste the birds, you can salt a little more to replace what runs off. Don't skimp on the basting lest the meat, especially that of the backs, dry out. In terms of cooking times over the coals, a half hour will be enough for doves, while 20 minutes will be sufficient for smaller birds. As a test for doneness, remove a thigh from one of the birds; there should be no blood. Mr. Parenti says to serve them with a green salad.
Neither Mr. Parenti nor Artusi say what to do if you don't have hot coals for roasting. Preheat your oven to 450 F (225 C), and spit the birds if you oven has a spit attachment; otherwise put them on a rack. Roast the birds for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 (175 C). If the birds are really small and unstuffed, they'll take another 5 minutes, while unstuffed quail will require 10-15. Stuffed quail will require about 20, and a pigeon about a half hour; don't forget to baste or the meat will dry out. Duck will take about an hour, and you might want to prick the skin of the back with a fork towards the end of the cooking with a fork to let the fat drain.
Nor do they say much about roasting a guinea hen. By comparison with chicken it's much leaner, and this is especially true for the breast meat, so you should wrap the bird in finely sliced cured lard, fatty pancetta, or fatty prosciutto. A slice or two of pancetta or lard (or an uncased mild Italian sausage) in the cavity won't hurt, and don't forget to season the cavity with salt and pepper. Once the bird is seasoned truss it, spit it, and roast it over hot coals, basting often, until the juices run clear if you insert a skewer into a joint. If you are oven roasting the bird, heat your oven to 450 F (225 C), prepare the bird, put it in a pan, and put everything in your oven. Immediately lower the heat to 350 F (175 C) and roast the guinea hen until the juices run clear, which will take 30-45 minutes depending upon the bird's size. To brown the skin, remove the fat in which you wrapped the bird 10-15 minutes before it's done.
