Ligurian recipes, wines, and more
Liguria is so rugged that people used to go from one town to the next by boat, rather than overland, and the cooking reflects this, with an abundance of fish and herbs. Pasta too, including ravioli and pesto sauce.
How To Salt Anchovies
The spring and summer anchovy harvest was vital to Ligurian fishermen, who salted much of the catch to carry them through less abundant times. Here is how they salted (and salt) their anchovies. It's not difficult, and the results are superb.
The spring and summer anchovy harvest was vital to Ligurian fishermen, who salted much of the catch to carry them through less abundant times. Here is how they salted (and salt) their anchovies. It's not difficult, and the results are superb.
Cima Alla Genovese - A More Modern Variation
This classic Ligurian stuffed breast of veal is a standard feature of Genovese Christmas menus, but is also nice in the summer months, because it's served sliced, cold. The Traditional recipe calls for ingredients that are now hard to find. Here is an easier modern variation, and a recipe for salsa verde to go with it.
This classic Ligurian stuffed breast of veal is a standard feature of Genovese Christmas menus, but is also nice in the summer months, because it's served sliced, cold. The Traditional recipe calls for ingredients that are now hard to find. Here is an easier modern variation, and a recipe for salsa verde to go with it.
Paradise Found
Corby Kummer's review of Fred Plotkin's Recipes from Paradise (i.e. Liguria). Does a nice job of capturing the flavor of the region as well as the book, and with several tasty recipes too.
Corby Kummer's review of Fred Plotkin's Recipes from Paradise (i.e. Liguria). Does a nice job of capturing the flavor of the region as well as the book, and with several tasty recipes too.
Focaccia with Cheese: Focaccia col Formaggio
Cheese-filled focaccia is a stunning treat, and a perfect antipasto too.
Cheese-filled focaccia is a stunning treat, and a perfect antipasto too.
Onions Stuffed with Tuna: Cipolle Ripiene col Tonno
Onions filled with tuna, a Ligurian treat that will be perfect in summer.
Onions filled with tuna, a Ligurian treat that will be perfect in summer.
La Focaccia Ligure: Liguria's Focaccia
About the perfect bread for a rustic meal or a quick snack, and an excellent antipasto too.
About the perfect bread for a rustic meal or a quick snack, and an excellent antipasto too.
Focaccia Ligure: The basic recipe
A thin loaf of bread that's tamped down with a spoon to make dimples, salted, and drizzled with olive oil before it goes into the oven.
A thin loaf of bread that's tamped down with a spoon to make dimples, salted, and drizzled with olive oil before it goes into the oven.
Focaccia con la Salvia: Focaccia with Sage
A close cousin of the basic focaccia, delicately flavored with sage.
A close cousin of the basic focaccia, delicately flavored with sage.
Focaccia col Formaggio: Cheese-Filled Focaccia
This is a stunning treat.
This is a stunning treat.
Focaccia con le Cipolle: Focaccia Topped with Onions
This was the traditional sendoff of the Ligurian sailor.
This was the traditional sendoff of the Ligurian sailor.
Ligurian Savory Easter Pie: Torta Pasqualina alla Ligure
A rich savory greens pie made with a dozen eggs, and an onion pie too.
A rich savory greens pie made with a dozen eggs, and an onion pie too.
Sea Bass Filets, Ligurian Style -- Filetti di Orata Alla Ligure
Sea Bass Filets, Ligurian Style, or Filetti di Orata Alla Ligure: This recipe is from the Lord Nelson Pub in Chiavari, on the Ligurian coast south of Genova.
Sea Bass Filets, Ligurian Style, or Filetti di Orata Alla Ligure: This recipe is from the Lord Nelson Pub in Chiavari, on the Ligurian coast south of Genova.
Fish Loaf -- Pan Pesce
Fish Loaf, or Pan Pesce: When Lino Bottoni, Mayor of San Remo, a city on the Ligurian coast west of Genova was asked about the conspicuous consumption that's all the rage among vacationers visiting his city, he said it was time people rediscovered pan pesce (fish bread), one of the standard frugal Ligurian dishes of Yore. And gave the recipe:
Fish Loaf, or Pan Pesce: When Lino Bottoni, Mayor of San Remo, a city on the Ligurian coast west of Genova was asked about the conspicuous consumption that's all the rage among vacationers visiting his city, he said it was time people rediscovered pan pesce (fish bread), one of the standard frugal Ligurian dishes of Yore. And gave the recipe:
Buridda
A Ligurian fish stew that goes perfectly with the white wines from the Cinque Terre.
A Ligurian fish stew that goes perfectly with the white wines from the Cinque Terre.
Pesto Lasagna, Lasagne col Pesto
This pleasant alternative is especially suited to the summer months. Like its cousin, spaghetti al pesto, it's Ligurian.
This pleasant alternative is especially suited to the summer months. Like its cousin, spaghetti al pesto, it's Ligurian.
Panissa
Classic Ligurian frugal peasant food, a polenta made from chickpea flour that will make a satisfying, simple meal.
Classic Ligurian frugal peasant food, a polenta made from chickpea flour that will make a satisfying, simple meal.
Walnut Salad -- Insalata alle Noci
Walnut Salad, or Insalata alle Noci: Liguria is famed for its walnut trees, which go into a number of sauces, including one that's quite nice over ravioli. They also go into salads, and here are a couple of recipes, one combining walnuts, greens, and fish, and the other greens, walnuts and fruit. Very different but both good.
Walnut Salad, or Insalata alle Noci: Liguria is famed for its walnut trees, which go into a number of sauces, including one that's quite nice over ravioli. They also go into salads, and here are a couple of recipes, one combining walnuts, greens, and fish, and the other greens, walnuts and fruit. Very different but both good.
Rice Minestrone with Pesto Sauce, or Minestrone di Riso al Pesto
Rice Minestrone with Pesto Sauce, or Minestrone di Riso al Pesto: Rice Minestrone is just what it sounds like: Minestrone with rice to give it body, and, here, pesto to add grace.
Rice Minestrone with Pesto Sauce, or Minestrone di Riso al Pesto: Rice Minestrone is just what it sounds like: Minestrone with rice to give it body, and, here, pesto to add grace.
Ligurian Minestrone -- Minestrone alla Ligure
Ligurian Minestrone, or Minestrone alla Ligure: Ligurians are known for basil, and it works quite nicely in this soup, which builds on a basic minestrone that you can make the day before, if need be.
Ligurian Minestrone, or Minestrone alla Ligure: Ligurians are known for basil, and it works quite nicely in this soup, which builds on a basic minestrone that you can make the day before, if need be.
Ligurian Minestrone -- Minestrone alla Ligure
In Liguria you'll encounter pesto sauce quite often -- not just over pasta, but in other dishes too, for example minestrone. And it works quite well!
In Liguria you'll encounter pesto sauce quite often -- not just over pasta, but in other dishes too, for example minestrone. And it works quite well!
Veal Provence Style -- Vitello alla Provenzale
Veal Provence Style, or Vitello alla Provenzale: Provenza is of course in France, but you'll also find this tasty stew in Liguria, especially towards the French border.
Veal Provence Style, or Vitello alla Provenzale: Provenza is of course in France, but you'll also find this tasty stew in Liguria, especially towards the French border.
Stew Meat Tocco -- Tocco di Stufato
Stew Meat Tocco, or Tocco di Stufato: Tocco is a Ligurian term that means meat sauce, or ragù, and is an example of frugality: The meat is gently stewed. The resulting sauce is used to season pasta, rice, polenta, or what have you, while the meat serves as a second course with the vegetable of choice.
Stew Meat Tocco, or Tocco di Stufato: Tocco is a Ligurian term that means meat sauce, or ragù, and is an example of frugality: The meat is gently stewed. The resulting sauce is used to season pasta, rice, polenta, or what have you, while the meat serves as a second course with the vegetable of choice.
Beef or Veal Tocco -- Tocco d Carne
This is a Ligurian sauce; in introducing it Alessandro Molinari Pradelli says, "Tocco, with an o so closed it almost sounds like u (tucco) is a thick sugo that's used to season pasta and other things. In other words, a hearty sauce, made with the obligatory olive oil and complemented by the ever rarer use of bone marrow or veal fat (ingredients abhorred by the modern health fanatics), in which the cooking is lengthy and the sauce is put through a strainer to gain a creamier consistency.
This is a Ligurian sauce; in introducing it Alessandro Molinari Pradelli says, "Tocco, with an o so closed it almost sounds like u (tucco) is a thick sugo that's used to season pasta and other things. In other words, a hearty sauce, made with the obligatory olive oil and complemented by the ever rarer use of bone marrow or veal fat (ingredients abhorred by the modern health fanatics), in which the cooking is lengthy and the sauce is put through a strainer to gain a creamier consistency.
Walnut Sauce for Ravioli, Salsa Con Le Noci Per Ravioli
It might sound like an unlikely combination, but this Ligurian walnut sauce goes astonishingly well with ravioli and other meatless stuffed pastas. Ravioli with walnut sauce are rich, so they’re best suited for a midday meal (such as Sunday dinner), during the winter.
It might sound like an unlikely combination, but this Ligurian walnut sauce goes astonishingly well with ravioli and other meatless stuffed pastas. Ravioli with walnut sauce are rich, so they’re best suited for a midday meal (such as Sunday dinner), during the winter.
Veal Uccelletto Style -- Vitello all'Uccelletto
Veal Uccelletto Style, or Vitello all'Uccelletto: In Tuscany uccelletto generally refers to cranberry beans cooked with a little tomato sauce, and perhaps sausages. Vitello all'uccelletto is instead Ligurian home cooking, one of those quick, easy things that's ideal for contrasting the lack of appetite one often finds among children or the elderly. If you're making it for children, you may want to omit the wine.
Veal Uccelletto Style, or Vitello all'Uccelletto: In Tuscany uccelletto generally refers to cranberry beans cooked with a little tomato sauce, and perhaps sausages. Vitello all'uccelletto is instead Ligurian home cooking, one of those quick, easy things that's ideal for contrasting the lack of appetite one often finds among children or the elderly. If you're making it for children, you may want to omit the wine.
Ligurian Spit-Roasted Veal -- Vitello Allo Spiedo
Ligurian Spit-Roasted Veal, or Vitello Allo Spiedo: A piece of meat done on a spit can be deceptive and surprising: all sorts of things can happen during the roasting. In Liguria, for example, it's basted with lemon juice.
Ligurian Spit-Roasted Veal, or Vitello Allo Spiedo: A piece of meat done on a spit can be deceptive and surprising: all sorts of things can happen during the roasting. In Liguria, for example, it's basted with lemon juice.
Burgher-Style Lentils -- Lenticchie alla Borghese
Burgher-Style Lentils, or Lenticchie alla Borghese: I'm not sure what gives these lentils their social position; the recipe is in any case Ligurian.
Burgher-Style Lentils, or Lenticchie alla Borghese: I'm not sure what gives these lentils their social position; the recipe is in any case Ligurian.
String Beans Genovese Style -- Fagiolini alla Genovese
String Beans Genovese Style, or Fagiolini alla Genovese: This is a classic and tasty recipe from Liguria, one of the most profoundly vegetarian regions of Italy.
String Beans Genovese Style, or Fagiolini alla Genovese: This is a classic and tasty recipe from Liguria, one of the most profoundly vegetarian regions of Italy.
Cima alla Genovese
Breast of veal, stuffed and simmered to perfection. A Ligurian classic.
Breast of veal, stuffed and simmered to perfection. A Ligurian classic.
Trofie
Ian asked for trofie, Ligurian gnocchi made with flour, water and a little bran; they're made between Camogli and Bogliasco, and are a specialty of Recco. They're hand made, with pointy ends, and Alessandro Molinari Prdelli notes, in la Cucina Ligure that Ligurians don't use the back of a cheese grater or the tines of a fork to shape gnocchi with hollow fronts and decorated backs, but wrap the bleb of pasta around a finger so as to obtain a small tortiglione with pointy ends.
Ian asked for trofie, Ligurian gnocchi made with flour, water and a little bran; they're made between Camogli and Bogliasco, and are a specialty of Recco. They're hand made, with pointy ends, and Alessandro Molinari Prdelli notes, in la Cucina Ligure that Ligurians don't use the back of a cheese grater or the tines of a fork to shape gnocchi with hollow fronts and decorated backs, but wrap the bleb of pasta around a finger so as to obtain a small tortiglione with pointy ends.
Tagliolini with Pesto and Almonds -- Tagliolini al Pesto con Mandorle
The Ligurians have a long tradition of adding greens to pasta seasoned with pesto sauce, and this tasty variation on their more strictly vegetarian fare gains considerable grace from crisp prosciutto flakes, which nicely contrast the oil and garlic.
The Ligurians have a long tradition of adding greens to pasta seasoned with pesto sauce, and this tasty variation on their more strictly vegetarian fare gains considerable grace from crisp prosciutto flakes, which nicely contrast the oil and garlic.
Trenette with Eggplant & Pesto: Trenette con le Melanzane
Another Ligurian specialty, trenette (thin linguine) with eggplant and pesto sauce. And again, quite healthy.
Another Ligurian specialty, trenette (thin linguine) with eggplant and pesto sauce. And again, quite healthy.
Trenette with Pesto Sauce, Trenette col Pesto
Similar to spaghetti al pesto, but with the addition of string beans and potatoes to the pasta. Very nice, and healthy too.
Similar to spaghetti al pesto, but with the addition of string beans and potatoes to the pasta. Very nice, and healthy too.
Risotto with Wedge Shells -- Risotto alle Telline
Risotto with Wedge Shells, or Risotto alle Telline: This is a simple risotto from Genova, in Liguria, which nicely combines the bounty of the sea with the richness of the mountains immediately inland.
Risotto with Wedge Shells, or Risotto alle Telline: This is a simple risotto from Genova, in Liguria, which nicely combines the bounty of the sea with the richness of the mountains immediately inland.
Rice with Clams -- Riso con le Vongole
Rice with Clams, or Riso con le Vongole: Here's a simple recipe from Genova, in Liguria. To feed 6-8 you'll need:
Rice with Clams, or Riso con le Vongole: Here's a simple recipe from Genova, in Liguria. To feed 6-8 you'll need:
Ligurian Stewed Meat Sauce: Tocco di Carne
Rich Ligurian stewed meat in tomato sauce, which goes over the pasta.
Rich Ligurian stewed meat in tomato sauce, which goes over the pasta.
Ligurian Stewed Meat Sauce II: Tocco di Carne Stufato
Richer than a plain tocco, with the addition of rosemary and other herbs.
Richer than a plain tocco, with the addition of rosemary and other herbs.
Testaroli
Testaroli are a specialty of the Lunigiana region, a wild, isolated valley that extends inland along the border between Tuscany and Liguria. They derive their name from the testo, a flat or slightly domed cast iron or stone griddle that they're cooked on, and are quite ancient.
Testaroli are a specialty of the Lunigiana region, a wild, isolated valley that extends inland along the border between Tuscany and Liguria. They derive their name from the testo, a flat or slightly domed cast iron or stone griddle that they're cooked on, and are quite ancient.
Ciuppin di Gallinella
As an alternative mixed fish ciuppin, you might use a gallinella di mare, which is a tub fish or tub gurnard -- a larger, tasty relative of the piper. In this case the fish shouldn't be pureed, but rather served chopped in its broth. The preparation time is about an hour.
As an alternative mixed fish ciuppin, you might use a gallinella di mare, which is a tub fish or tub gurnard -- a larger, tasty relative of the piper. In this case the fish shouldn't be pureed, but rather served chopped in its broth. The preparation time is about an hour.
Ciuppin II
Ciuppin is the Ligurian progenitor of the Bay Area's Chippino. Here's a recipe that cooks slowly and will be perfect in winter.
Ciuppin is the Ligurian progenitor of the Bay Area's Chippino. Here's a recipe that cooks slowly and will be perfect in winter.
Ciuppin
A while back I got a note from a Bay Area food writer, who wondered what information I could give her on cioppino, the local fish stew. Though the name did sound Italian, I had never heard of it. Nor was it mentioned in any of my cookbooks, so I explored the web, where I found lots of recipes and variations, and a general consensus that the recipe is San Franciscan. However, in discussing cioppino on the Rec.Foods.Cooking newsgroup Michael Edelman said, "Yes, cioppino *is* Italian...
A while back I got a note from a Bay Area food writer, who wondered what information I could give her on cioppino, the local fish stew. Though the name did sound Italian, I had never heard of it. Nor was it mentioned in any of my cookbooks, so I explored the web, where I found lots of recipes and variations, and a general consensus that the recipe is San Franciscan. However, in discussing cioppino on the Rec.Foods.Cooking newsgroup Michael Edelman said, "Yes, cioppino *is* Italian...
Buridda
This is a traditional Ligurian fish stew, and which will go nicely with Cinque Terre, a white wine eked from the terraces around the towns on the Ligurian coast. To serve six you'll need:
This is a traditional Ligurian fish stew, and which will go nicely with Cinque Terre, a white wine eked from the terraces around the towns on the Ligurian coast. To serve six you'll need:
On Making Pesto
Pesto sauce, the Ligurian variety made with basil, garlic, pine nuts, and cheese, is one of the most refreshing summer pasta sauces going. And versatile too; you can do much more than put it over trenette.
Pesto sauce, the Ligurian variety made with basil, garlic, pine nuts, and cheese, is one of the most refreshing summer pasta sauces going. And versatile too; you can do much more than put it over trenette.
Trenette with Eggplant: Trenette con le Melanzane
Another Ligurian specialty, trenette (thin linguine) with eggplant and pesto sauce. And again, quite healthy.
Another Ligurian specialty, trenette (thin linguine) with eggplant and pesto sauce. And again, quite healthy.
Stewed Rabbit Onegliese Style -- Coniglio all'Onegliese
Stewed Rabbit Onegliese Style, or Coniglio all'Onegliese: Rabbit is quite healthy, and if you go out in the country you'll see people gathering grass for the rabbits they keep in their hutch. What next? Here's a recipe from Liguria.
Stewed Rabbit Onegliese Style, or Coniglio all'Onegliese: Rabbit is quite healthy, and if you go out in the country you'll see people gathering grass for the rabbits they keep in their hutch. What next? Here's a recipe from Liguria.
Ravioli Liguri
This is the original Ligurian recipe, which doesn’t call for any meat at all -- mostly greens, and some cheese.
This is the original Ligurian recipe, which doesn’t call for any meat at all -- mostly greens, and some cheese.
Onions Stuffed with Tuna Fish -- Cipolle Ripiene col Tonno
Onions Stuffed with Tuna Fish, or Cipolle Ripiene col Tonno: This is a Ligurian specialty.
Onions Stuffed with Tuna Fish, or Cipolle Ripiene col Tonno: This is a Ligurian specialty.
Ligurian Easter Pie: Torta Pasqualina alla Ligure
A rich savory spinach pie made with a dozen eggs.
A rich savory spinach pie made with a dozen eggs.
Onion Pie: Torta di Cipolle
Onion pie, a variation on the classic Ligurian Torta alla Pasqualina (scroll down).
Onion pie, a variation on the classic Ligurian Torta alla Pasqualina (scroll down).
Stuffed Zucchini Flowers -- Fiori di Zucchine Ripiene
Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, or Fiori di Zucchine Ripiene: Ligurians have a well-deserved reputation for slipping vegetables into everything, including other vegetables.
Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, or Fiori di Zucchine Ripiene: Ligurians have a well-deserved reputation for slipping vegetables into everything, including other vegetables.