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Top 10 Dolcetti: The Wines Piemontesi Love to Drink

By , About.com Guide

Winemakers tend to be a sociable lot, and if you visit a winery at (roughly) lunchtime, you may well find yourself invited to stick around for a bite, especially if it's a family-run operation. The wine will of course be from the cellar, but you shouldn't expect the flagship wine. Rather, what people dink every day, and if you're in Piemonte's Langhe (home to Barolo and Barbaresco, among others), chances are you'll be drinking Dolcetto. It drinks very well with all sorts of foods.

Here's a selection of Dolcetto that especially impressed me, from the Dolcetto & Dolcetto presentation held in Piemonte this fall.

1. Gianni Voerzio Dolcetto D'Alba Rocchettevino 2005

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. Rich, enveloping bouquet with lively red berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and powerful bitter almond accents. Extraordinary vitality. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bitterness and rich, slightly greenish tannins with a cool burr that flow into a long clean bitter finish. Very fine, with a richness and depth one rarely finds in Dolcetto, coupled with wide-eyed vitality. It will contribute considerably to grilled meats -- a porterhouse cut, even -- or light stews, with polenta. Seek it out.
Score: 92-3

2. Gianolio Tomaso Dolcetto D'Alba 2005

Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. Fresh bouquet with pleasant red berry fruit supported by violets and almond blossoms, with deft underlying greenish notes that provide considerable depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively, deft red berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense mineral acidity, and support from deft tannins that have faint cedar overtones, and flow into a clean berry fruit laced finish. It's what an Italian would call a tutto pasto, suited to the entire meal, and it will go fast.
Score: 88-90

3. Renato Ratti Colombè Dolcetto D'Alba 2005

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. Fresh, youthful bouquet with bright cherry and raspberry fruit laced with some raspberry acidity and slight greenish notes. Sunny. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright acidity that provides direction, while the tannins are quite smooth and laced with peach nut bitterness that adds nice definition. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews. Well worth seeking out, and you may want a second bottle.
Score: 88-90

4. Terre da Vino La Gaggina Dolcetto di Ovada 2005

Deep cherry ruby with violet rim. Fresh bouquet with violets and cherry blossoms mingling with some bitter almonds, pleasant red berry and slight mineral notes. Youth in a glass, and a pleasant youth too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate tart berry acidity, and is supported by clean slight greenish tannins that flow into a deft finish. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or light stews. It's one of those bottles that will simply vanish when set out on the table.
Score: 88

5. Penna Luigi e Figli Bricco Galante Dolcetto D'Alba 2005

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and some India ink bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with ample red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and clean slightly bitter tannins that flow into a clean fairly long finish; it's quick to write but quire pleasant, and a bottle will go very fast. Well worth seeking out.
Score: 88

6. Bricco del Cucù Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005

Deep pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. Bright bouquet, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable peach pit and bitter almond bitterness and delicate violets, with vinous warmth and spice as well. Invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit that gains direction from some tart berry acidity, but more from pronounced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter fruit laced finish, while the tannins that provide support are quite smooth. Quite nice, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out.
Score: 88

7. Cascina Bruciata Vigneti in Rio Sordo Dolcetto D'Alba 2005

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. Muted bouquet, though swishing brings up red berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and some greenish spice. Harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft berry fruit supported by clean bitter tannins that gain direction from moderate mineral acidity, and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish that's fairly long. Quite nice, and will drink very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats or light stews, though it will also handle pasta dishes or fried meats with ease.
Score: 88

8. Abbona Anna Maria Sorì du But Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005

Deep pyrope ruby with cherry rim. Bright, fresh bouquet with deft tart red berry fruit supported by floral accents, considerable bitter almond, some greenish vegetal notes, peppery spice, and some alcohol. A lot going on. On the palate it's light, deft, and bright, with fairly intense berry fruit that gains direction from pleasant floral accents and considerable bitter almonds, while the tannins, which are clean and smooth with some bitter notes, lead into a clean finish. Quite nice, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts.
Score: 88

9. Cascina il Cartino Beatrice Rovere Dolcetto D'Acqui 2005

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. Fresh bouquet with violets and bitter almonds overlying cherry and berry fruit. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite smooth, with ample fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by bitter almonds and ample smooth tannins that again have a pleasant bitter overlay, and flow into a clean fairly bitter tannic finish. It will work quite well with lesser grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a good choice with simple pasta dishes. In short, a good all around wine that would be a nice wine to drink day by day.
Score: 86-8

10. Drocco Luigi Cascina Pontepietra Dolcetto D'Alba 2005

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Fresh bouquet with bright berry fruit mingled with berry fruit blossoms and India ink bitterness with some nose tingling overtones and bitter almonds to add depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish that gains definition from lasting bitterness. Quite pleasant, and is one of those wines that will seem to drink itself when you set it out at the table. What with? Grilled meats, or light stews.
Score: 86-8

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