Italian cooking is intensely regional. Here you will find recipes from Piemonte, from glorious risotti and pasta dishes through heady stews and delightful desserts.
This rice and beans is classic country food from Novara, in Northern Piemonte, and though it does to somewhat resemble the panissa made in nearby Vercelli, it contains many more vegetables.
Depending upon where you are, Panissa can be different things. In Liguria it's a chickpea puree. In northern Piemonte, on the other hand, it's a peasant dish made with rice and beans, which is quite rich and can work well as a one-course meal.
Pork and beans is a universal combination, and here is a Piemontese recipe for pork chops and beans. It will do an excellent job of contrasting winter's chill (especially if served with polenta), and is something you may find yourself making often.
In introducing Tuscany's cacciucco Artusi notes that a very similar fish stew is called Brodetto on the Adriatic coast, and then observes that the word Brodetto is an egg-based Easter soup in Florence: He concludes with the hope that Italians will unify their culinary terminology. It hasn't happened, and the stewed meat he calls Fricandó differs considerably from what you will find in Piemonte or the Valle D'Aosta.
Rollups, or involtini, are usually meat-based, with vegetable filling. This Piemontese recipe instead has one use cabbage leaves as the base, and roll them up around bits of boned duck.
Savoy cabbage is a wonderfully versatile vegetable, and works beautifully with onions and walnuts in this Piemontese vegetarian entrée or side dish.
This is a frankly frugal Piemontese recipe, of the sort that even a poor family would have been able to afford in the past. We're better off now, but pig skins still do have a rather libidinous satiny texture that makes for a fine soup.
This recipe for marinated bell peppers was developed by Italian food writer and historian Giovanni Goria, and has been quoted in a number of cookbooks, as well as appearing on the web in several places. In other words, it's good!
Most marinated pepper recipes call for marinating in oil. This Piemontese marinated pepper recipe instead has you marinate the peppers in vinegar before serving them. A tasty antipasto!
This is an old Piemontese recipe that will work equally well with pig or beef tongue, though you will need two of the former. In Piemonte it's generally served instead of the first course, though you may decided to serve it with a salad as a light lunch, together with a bottle of Dolcetto.
Piemonte's Langhe are best known for their superb red wines, but the region also has some of the finest stands of hazelnut trees in the world. Though this recipe calls for beef, you could use other meats too, including rabbit.
Piemonte is famed for its beef, and as a result there are a great many Piemontese recipes for roasted or braised beef; though brasato al Barolo is perhaps the best known, this is also quite nice.
This is an elegant winter roast from Piemonte, and will offer a very nice change of pace.
Crumiri are crescent-shaped cookies made with a combination of flour and finely ground corn meal in the Monferrato region in Piemonte. Very good, and in my experience people ask for more.
Stoccafisso is dried cod, and was once a mainstay of the inland Italian diet: It keeps very well, and was therefore one of the best options for Fridays and other days the Church forbade the consumption of meat, for example Lent. As an added bonus, it was inexpensive. This tasty Piemontese recipe combines stoccafisso and potatoes with olives for added flavor, and will be good as an antipasto or entree.
Dried figs are an extremely popular winter treat in Italy. They're nice nibbled on, or perhaps stuffed with a walnut half, but one can also do more. In Piemonte they dip them in chocolate, for example.
The House of Savoy ruled Piemonte before they became Kings of Italy, and considering the Torinese love of chocolate, it's natural that this sumptuous creamy dessert be named after them.
Torino may be the best-known chocolate town in Piemonte, but Cherasco, a town in the Province of Cuneo, certainly isn't second fiddle, and is also in the heart of hazelnut territory. This recipe will in theory produce enough chocolate kisses for four.
Fine wines from Piemonte, and a memorable tasting dinner.
Who would ever guess that boiled dinner could be such a delight? With lots of sauce recipes, too.
Sims Brannon, of In Italy.Com, describing his search for truffles and the trifulau -- those who wander the mists in search of white gold.
A cheese torte may sound simple, but can be exraordinary.
Tasty fried meat and cheese sandwiches that will work nicely as an antipasto or perk up tired appetites.
Raw Meat, or Carne Cruda: In other parts of the world finely minced raw beef is called steak tartare, and they crack an egg into it. In Piemonte they don't, preferring lemon juice and olive oil, and you should try this even if you think you don't like raw meat, as it can be a rare treat indeed.
Bell Pepper Involtini, or Involtini di Peperone: This is a classic Piemontese recipe that has been published several times; the authors of one collection of recipes credit Fontanafredda, which was home to La Bella Rosina, King Vittorio Emanuele's second wife.
A recipe from Le Ricette di Cucina Del Piemonte, which notes that the recipe is typical of the middle class in Torino, and that we're dealing with a refined version of bagna caoda -- no garlic, and enriched with truffles.
Roast bell peppers cut into strips and served with this sauce are a fantastic appetizer!
Simple Piemontese stuffed tomatoes with green sauce and mayonnaise.
Onions stuffed with leftover roast meat, or whatever was handy, traditional country fare food from the Canavese region in Piemonte, and nice at home too.
Savoiardi are a Piemontese specialty that resemble lady fingers, though they're about twice as thick. In addition to being eaten as is, they figure prominently in many desserts, including puddings and tiramisu. If you buy them in the store, be sure they're fresh because their shelf life is limited. They shouldn't be soft.
Amaretti di Gavi: Unlike Saronno's amaretti, which are macaroons, these are almond paste through-and-through, and extraordinarily chewy, with a long almondy aftertaste that really does perk up the day.
Bones of the Dead (For Chewing), or Ossa di Morto (Ossa da Mordere): There are many variations on Bones of the Dead, the cookies Italians enjoy on November 2. This recipe is from Piemonte, and more specifically the cities of Biella, Vercelli and Novara.
Something rather different, and not baked -- this recipe was published by Giovanni Vialardi in 1854, and derives from the mountains of Cuneo and the Val di Susa in Piemonte, where chestnuts were a staple winter food. The marrone (marron, for the French) is larger, much more highly valued than the regular chestnut.
This is an old, old recipe for chestnut cookies, drawn from Il Confetturiere Piemontese, which was published in 1790, and whose author suggested that the chestnuts be cooked in the hot ashes of the fire place.
A rustic Piemontese sweet made with toast, sugar, spices, and wine.
This is a slightly more involved cardoon-based antipasto; it was, according to Giovanni Goria, a great favorite of the King of Piemonte.
Fonduta, or Cheese Fondue: Though the dish is commonly associated with the Val d'Aosta, it's not, according to Ricette di Osterie e Ristoranti della Valle D'Aosta, a traditional Valdostan dish. Rather, it was imported from nearby Piemonte and rapidly became one of the test dishes with which mothers-in-law evaluated their prospective daughters-in-laws' culinary ability: though the preparation is for the most part easy, one has to know exactly when to remove the pot from the fire.
Fondue with Truffles, or Fonduta con Tartufi: Many people associate fondue with the French, perhaps because the word sounds French. However, it's common in Piemonte and Val d'Aosta too. And in this case it's enriched with truffles.
Hazelnut Cake, or Torta di Nocciole: Hazelnuts are astonishingly delicate, and make for delightful cakes. Though I tend to associate them with Piemonte, thanks to the stands of trees around Alba, they're popular throughout the North. Lisetta made this cake for a wonderful dinner in Valpolicella and was kind enough to share the recipe. It goes by weight and you may find it easier to calculate it thusly, rather than convert it to volumes.
Gâteau di Savoja, or Savoy Cake: It launched a dynasty!
Though Piemonte is better known for hazelnuts, the region also makes good use of almonds, and this is a fine cake.
An unusual cake made with peaches and figs: Summertime!
Fresh Salmon, Salmone Fresco: This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766, and was one of the first books written in Italian to present French recipes. Though the book mentions quite a few fish, most only get one recipe Salmon instead gets two, one of which offers many possibilities.
Buttered Chestnuts, or Castagne al Burro: A simple Piemontese recipe that will serve 6.
Chestnuts with Whipped Cream, or Castagne con la Panna: This may not be quite as rich as a marron glassé, but it's definitely headed in that direction. The recipe is Piemontese, and will serve 6.
This is Piemontese, and traditionally made with Martin Sec pears, a small golden-russet variety whose slightly grainy flesh is especially suited to being cooked.
Walnut Soup, or Minestra di Noci: An unusual Piemontese recipe that will be nice in the winter months.
Cardoon Soup -- Minestra di Cardi in Compagnia
Also got a request for a "Zuppa Valdostana, which contains fontina cheese, cauliflower, etc. topped with nutmeg?" Haven't found anything exactly like this in any of my general Italian cookbooks. However, the Zuppa di Formaggio made in nearby Piemonte comes fairly close -- no veggies, but lots of cheese, and perfect for keeping winter at bay.
A rich cabbage-and-sausage-and-beef zuppa from the Canavese area of Piemonte.
In Piemonte's Canavese region they make cheesy vegetable soups with a variety of vegetables, including cabbage, leeks, and -- of course -- onions.
A tasty chestnut soup to keep the winter cold at bay.
An Italian variation on a French classic.
Apples or Pears Fried Farmer Style, or Frittura di Mele o Pere alla Contadinesca: These will be quite nice at the end of a meal, though they will also provide a pleasing flavor contrast in a classic Piemontese fritto misto, which consists primarily of savory fried meats and vegetables.
Veronese Bones of the Dead, made with polenta.
Crunchy Chestnut fritters.
Summery Braised Beef or Veal, or Brasato Estivo: Brasato al Barolo, beef braised in Barolo, is one of the most classic dishes of the Langhe, the hilly area where Barolo and Barbaresco are made. It's also a wintery dish. This, instead, is a summery variation on the theme.
Marengo Stew, or Spezzato Marengo: A simple, hearty stew from Ada Boni's Il Talismano della Felicità.
Home-Style Cutlets with Potatoes, or Costolette alla Casalinga con Patate: Meat & potatoes is supposedly a classic combination from the British Isles, but they don't have a monopoly on it, as Mr. Vialardi shows.
Beef Braised in a White Wine Sauce, or Bue Stufato in Salsa al Vino Bianco: A classic dish that Mr. Vialardi's Employer (the King) would have much enjoyed.
Beef Roll, or Salciccione di Bue: This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766. As is true with most recipes of the time, it was aimed at professional cooks and assumes that one has a feel for proportions. In the modern world, this means that one is free to experiment. The recipe calls for a single slice of beef, though you can increase it by using more.
This dish calls for Vitellone, which is a young cow (18 months or so), or for beef, which will be a little more flavorful. It's a classic dish of Casale Monferrato; to serve 6 you'll need:
Sottofiletto alle Verdure -- -- Rump Roast with Greens
Sanato Veal in Milk, or Sanato al Latte: Sanato is a special Piemontese veal that's fed with milk and egg whites after it's weaned, so its flesh remains white. In its absence use regular milk-fed veal, and adjust the cooking time, which will likely be a little less.
Piemontese Stewed Beef, or Manzo Stufato alla Piemontese: Every corner of Italy has a pot roast. This recipe is from Piemonte; it's one of those dishes you set on the stove and leave while you do other things, and will improve if you can cook it most of the way one day and finish cooking it the next.
Beef braised in Barolo. Sounds simple....
Tajarin (Piemontese tagliatelle) with the sauce froma pot roast. Makes for a fine first course and a tasty second course too.
Fasuleda: This is an Emilian relative of the Pimontese fagiolata. And like its Piemontese cousin, it will be quite nice over polenta, or, if you want something non-Italian, a bed of rice.
In discussing lentils, Mr. Vialardi, Chef to King Vittorio Emanuele, notes that they are stimulating and cause sweating, while being non-nutritious and extremely windy, and goes on to say that they're eaten wither whole or puréed, and can be served as a side dish with the addition of fresh cream and butter or good concentrated broth. He also tells how to make lentil soup.
Brodo Magro di Digiuno -- Lenten Soup -- Brodo Magro di Digiuno -- Lenten Soup
This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766. Though it was one of the first books written in Italian to present French recipes, given the importance of chestnuts in the Italian diet, especially among the poor, this recipe is likely Piemontese. The days of abstinence referred to in the title are the days that the Catholic Church forbade the consumption of meat, in other words Fridays, Vigils, and Lent.
Eugene writes, "I am hoping that you can help me find a recipe. When I was a little boy growing up my grandmother live with us. She came from Torino, and she would make a casserole or at least it was in a big pan. She called it something like Zuppa puma tess, my spelling and Italian is probably not right. She would cook a pork roast and then in a large iron pot she would layer bread, cabbage, and pork...
Eugene writes, "I am hoping that you can help me find a recipe. When I was a little boy growing up my grandmother live with us. She came from Torino, and she would make a casserole or at least it was in a big pan. She called it something like Zuppa puma tess, my spelling and Italian is probably not right. She would cook a pork roast and then in a large iron pot she would layer bread, cabbage, and pork...
King's Cake, a delicate cake made with almonds, which could also be made with other nuts, and is perfect for Passover.
Torino-Style or Steaks, Bistecche alla Torinese: Steak works very well with beans, as this Piemontese recipe shows. To serve 6:
This is a simple Piemontese sweet that Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa suggests be used to break the fast at the close of Kippur. It could also work nicely as a very rustic dessert.
And while we're on the subject of puddings, here's a recipe for Panna Cotta, a traditional Piemontese specialty. It's translated from Ricette di Osterie di Langa, a book put out by the people at Slow Food, Italy's most influential gastronomic organization (they got it from the Circolo Agricola Boccondivino in Bra):
Though chestnuts were once used primarily to keep the peasants alive, good chestnuts are very good and the aristocracy was quite happy to enjoy them, provided they were elegantly prepared. Marrons glacées are quite elegant, and were doubtless very popular at court. The recipe Mr. Vialardi presents looks involved at first glance, but actually involves brief steps over several days after the initial preparation, so it is fairly easy. And a jar of marrons glacées makes a fine gift!
Who would ever guess that boiled dinner could be such a delight? A favorite of King Alberto, and with lots of sauce recipes too.
A Piemontese classic: Capon stewed with vegetables, in a wine sauce. This will work with other meats too.
Stewed chicken with mushrooms in a delicate creamy sauce.
A simple, tasty version of Napoleon's classic recipe.
Cabbage with Chestnuts and Sausages, or Cavolo con Castagne e Salsicce: Yet another cabbage recipe, and this time quite old; it appears in a collection of Piemontese recipes from 1771.
Tajarin with the Sauce from a Roast, or Tajarin al Sugo di Arrosto: Sugo di arrosto, in this case pot roast (which is also called an arrosto morto in Tuscany) is one of the classic Piemontese condiments for both flat pasta and stuffed pasta, in particular agnolotti. It's a simple preparation that provides the sauce necessary to season the pasta, and also the meat for the second course.
A zesty winter antipasto, and the King's favorite.
A tasty antipasto to keep winter at bay.
Canavesana-Style and Onion Soup: People generally associate (even in Italy) onion soup with the French, but this doesn't mean that it's not made in Italy. Indeed, they've been making it for quite some time in Piemonte, where it's considered a variation on Zuppa alla Canavesana, a cabbage soup. Or at least that's how Giovanni Vialardi, head chef of the House of Savoy in the mid-1800s, describes it in [i]A Tavola con il Re[/i] (Dining with the King), published in 1854.
This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766, and was one of the first books written in Italian to present French recipes. Given the renown of onion soup in France and its comparative rareness in Italy, this may be of French origin. Like most 18th century recipes, it leaves the proportions up to you. You'll want day old bread, and want to add enough to thicken the soup but not so much as to make it really firm. Having said this, the instructions:
Vegetable broth for Lent or Friday -- and tasty at any time of year.
Delfina-Style Stuffed Meat, or Carne Farcita alla Delfina: This is a tasty dish that will work nicely as an antipasto, in a Piemontese fritto misto, and will also serve to perk up tired appetites.
This is sumptuous and extremely varied, with a pleasing combination of sweet and savory. It's ideally suited for an important occasion, and will work best with a good Dolcetto or unoaked Barbera. The organ meats may be hard to find, but will add variety. If you chose not to include them increase the other meats, or add something else, for example slices of turkey breast and chicken drumsticks. The important thing is that there be balance...
Lamb with Horseradish Sauce, or Agnello con Salsa di Rafano: Rafano is horseradish, and it will do as fine a job of cutting through the richness of lamb as does the mint jelly commonly used in the Anglo-Saxon world. This recipe is from Piemonte and will serve 6.
Baked potatoes Savoiarda Style, or Patate in Crostata alla Savoiarda: A tasty cheesy delight.
Piemontese Potato Casserole, or Patate Pasticciate: A rich, hearty Piemontese dish that will be quite nice in the winter months.
Potatoes with Capers, or Patate ai Capperi: A zesty recipe from Piemonte.
There's not getting around it; the meat that's used to make broth is fairly bland when it's cooked. This isn't the problem you might think, because it's a perfect foil for tasty sauces, including Piemonte's Saosa 'd Avije, a honey sauce. If you boil up some vegetables (carrots, potatoes, leeks, and turnips, for example) while the stock pot bubbles, and serve everything with a zesty red wine and freshly baked bread, you'll have a wonderful, simple meal.
There's not getting around it; the meat that's used to make broth is fairly bland when it's cooked. This isn't the problem you might think, because it's a perfect foil for tasty sauces, including Piemonte's Salsa del pòvr'òm (The Poor Man's Sauce). If you boil up some vegetables (carrots, potatoes, leeks, and turnips, for example) while the stock pot bubbles, and serve everything with a zesty red wine and freshly baked bread, you'll have a wonderful, simple meal.
There's not getting around it; the meat that's used to make broth is fairly bland when it's cooked. This isn't the problem you might think, because it's a perfect foil for tasty sauces, including Piemonte's Bagnèt Vert. If you boil up some vegetables (carrots, potatoes, leeks, and turnips, for example) while the stock pot bubbles, and serve everything with a zesty red wine and freshly baked bread, you'll have a wonderful, simple meal.
There's not getting around it; the meat that's used to make broth is fairly bland when it's cooked. This isn't the problem you might think, because it's a perfect foil for tasty sauces, including Piemonte's Bagnèt Ross. If you boil up some vegetables (carrots, potatoes, leeks, and turnips, for example) while the stock pot bubbles, and serve everything with a zesty red wine and freshly baked bread, you'll have a wonderful, simple meal.
Bagna Caoda (literally "hot sauce") arises from the interaction between land and sea, with the anchovies and olive oil brought overland by the Ligurian traders combining delightfully with the garlic grown in Piemonte, and is the symbol of joyful conviviality around which friends gather to renew the bonds that tie, serving the sauce in a bowl, and providing the diners with raw vegetables to dip in it, bread to accompany it, and rivers of Barbera or Dolcetto to wash it down.
Agnolotti (pronounced anneeolottee) are Piemontese stuffed pasta, and come in a great many different varieties, some filled with cheese, others meat, and others still meatless. They are, in any case square and small, about 3/4 of an inch to an inch on a side, and are made using very thin sheets of pasta. They also are often made from cooked meat, in other words, leftovers. Recycling can result in something both elegant and very tasty.
Tripe is a universal Italian dish; this is a Piemontese variation, and will serve 6:
Tripe Asti Style: This invariably appears on the menu of Asti's Trattoria Vecchia Salera on market days. Some of the ingredients, especially udder, are hard to come by. Either ask your butcher to procure it for you or check an oriental market.
Onions Stuffed with Tuna Fish, or Cipolle Ripiene col Tonno: This is a Ligurian specialty.
Stuffed Onions, or Cipolle Ripiene: This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766, and was one of the first books written in Italian to present French recipes. Like all recipes of the time, it provides general directions rather than detailed instructions.
Chamois Civet, or Civet di Camoscio: Cottura in civet, cooking in civet, is a Piemontese (and French) technique for preparing furred game -- hare, venison, mountain goat, and so on -- by marinating it with wine, herbs, in particular juniper berries, and onions -- the word civet derives from the Latin cepa, onion. The wine is generally red and full bodied, though strong white wines can be used, and the marinade is added to the pot after the meat has browned.
Venison with Juniper Berries, or Cervo al Ginepro: There are lots of deer in Piemonte, or at least there used to be; I saw a documentary about the House of Savoy (who were also Kings of Piemonte, and, subsequently, Italy), whose princes were passionate hunters and had decorated an entire villa with racks of antlers. As for juniper berries, they're one of the classic berries used to marinate all kinds of furred game.
Stewed Venison with Mushrooms, Cervo Stufato ai Funghi: This is a classic recipe that Mr. Vialardi would have had ample occasion to make: King Vittorio Emanuele was a passionate hunter, and was also blessed with fine aim. Mr. Vialardi doesn't say what kind of mushrooms to use. Porcini would be nice, as would any flavorful wild mushroom. Serve the stew with polenta.
Savory Green Pie, or Torta Verde: Frances writes, "My late father used to make, every Easter, a "pie" called "Torta Verde." This is a dish that originates in the Piedmont section of Italy, where he was born. I have been searching for a recipe for this pie and have been totally unsuccessful. It's made with chopped spinach, rice, eggs, Parmigiano cheese, and baked. I would love to have an idea of the proportions. Can you help with this?"
rances writes, "My late father used to make, every Easter, a "pie" called "Torta Verde." This is a dish that originates in the Piedmont section of Italy, where he was born. It's made with chopped spinach, rice, eggs, Parmigiano cheese, and baked. I would love to have an idea of the proportions. Can you help with this?" I've found a couple of recipies. The first is Torta Primavera, di Riso Verde -- Spring Pie with Green Rice.
Baked in the oven, though certainly not the standard North American baked potato. Rather, a hearty potato casserole filled with cheese and ricotta.
Goose with Savoy Cabbage, or Oca con le Verze: And what does winter cold bring to mind? Cabbages, the classic winter vegetables. Here they go wonderfully with goose, in a Piemontese recipe that will serve six:
Stuffed Duck, or Anitra con la Farsa: This recipe is drawn from a volume entitled Il Cuoco Piemontese, which was published in 1766, and was one of the first books written in Italian to present French recipes. Like many recipes of the time, it provides general directions rather than detailed instructions. The same stuffing will also work well with guinea hen.
Duck braised in white wine, from Piemonte
Though stuffed tomatoes may be more common to the south than the north, there are variations on the theme throughout the Peninsula. This recipe is Piemontese, and boasts innumerable variations. In many households the tomatoes are topped with bagnèt vert rather than mayonnaise, and some families simply fill the tomatoes with a mixture of bagnèt vert and mashed hard-boiled egg yolk.
Piemintese Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, or Fiori di Zucca Ripieni alla Piemontese: As is the case with almost everything else in Italy, there's tremendous variation in how zucchini flowers are prepared. This is a meat-based filling from Piemonte.
