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Pies and tarts

Here you'll find all sorts of things, from a simple jam crostata to an extraordinarily elaborate fresh fruit crostata, with torta della nonna (and del nonno) too.
Picnic Plum Tart - Torta Picnic Alle Prugne
This plum tart is quite simple, and is also is one of those things one can bring on a picnic with impunity, because at the most it will crack a little -- not something one normally looks for in a tart or pie, but when one stuffs it into a picnic hamper it's an important consideration.
Red Plum Tart - Torta alle Prugne
This fruit tart is quite elegant, and much easier to make than you might expect. It will also lend itself well to variations: In addition to using plums, you could use apricots, peaches, or nectarines -- or a combination of the various kinds of fruit.
Aironeverde's Pastiera Napoletana
One of the most spectacular Italian Easter pastries is the Pastiera Napoletana, a wheat berry and ricotta pie that gains grace and allure from orange water. "Nobody escapes its allure," wrote Caṛla Francesconi in introducing it, "an allure due not so much to its goodness as to a subconscious love that's transmitted from generation to generation." Aironeverde is a regular visitor to the Italian food forum, and has kindly shared her recipe
Cuore Fondente, or Melting Heart
Cuore Fondente: A rich chocolate pie that will be perfect (if you make it reducing the ingredients to those given here) for Valentine's day. Or you can make the full pie for more friends with libidinous tastes. If you make the romantic version, a small heart-shaped pan will greatly improve the presentation.
Berry Fruit Meringue - Meringata di Frutti di Bosco
Meringues are quite easy to make, and work beautifully with cream and wild berries to make this tasty summer strawberry raspberry currant meringue pie.
Monica's Ridiculously Easy (And Tasty) Yogurt Pie
Monica Taddei's daughter Francesca goes to kindergarten with Clelia, and this yogurt pie was one of the treats she made for Francesca's birthday party. It didn't look like much -- quite simple, actually -- but it went very fast, and we all asked for the recipe. It's a perfect pie for any time of year and any season, and easy too.
Crunchy Ice Cream Pie -- Torta Croccante al Gelato
A rich -- nay, libidenous, even, ice cream pie with a crunchy chocolate cookie crumb crust. The perfect summer pie!
La Pastiera Mirandese
Mirandesi make their Easter Pastiera differently from Neapolitans, with rice rather than grain, and cinnamon rather than orange water. Different, but just as tasty!
Apple Tart -- Tortino di Mele
This apple tart is from Canale Cinque's lunchtime news. Simple things, but interesting too. It will take about a half hour to do, including the baking time. It makes individual portions, and the chef who did the demonstration used a 6-inch (15 cm) diameter tinned copper skillet with a fairly long metal handle. In other words, a pot that's good on the stove but also in the oven.
A Dried Fruit Wreath -- Anello di Frutta Secca
A Dried Fruit Wreath, or Anello di Frutta Secca: The Holidays are an occasion for planning a special dessert or two. Wife Elisabetta was sifting through cookbooks and magazines in search of a good fruitcake recipe (she wanted to make a Christmas pudding, but suet is very hard to find in Florence). One of the magazines she browsed has an interesting dried fruit ring that brings strudel to mind, and will be quite beautiful if carefully made.
Yellow Squash Gubana -- Gubana alla Zucca Gialla
Yellow Squash Gubana, or Gubana alla Zucca Gialla: A gubana is a very traditional pastry from Friuli Venezia Giulia that somewhat resembles a strudel, and though they generally come with a minced apple filling and enough grappa to tipple a teetotaler, there are other variations on the theme. This one features Italian yellow squash, which is quite similar to butternut squash. You'll need:
Yellow Squash Pie -- Torta Di Zucca Gialla
Yellow Squash Pie, or Torta Di Zucca Gialla: This recipe is drawn from The Art of Eating Well, my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, the first truly successful Italian cookbook. He notes that it's made in autumn or winter, when greengrocers carry yellow squash.
Chocolate Testarolo Rolls Stuffed with Ricotta and Served with a Honey-Raspberry Glaze
Chocolate Testarolo Rolls Stuffed with Ricotta and Served with a Honey-Raspberry Glaze, or Girelle di Testarolo al Cioccolato con Ricotta e Frutti di Bosco in Salsa di Lamponi e Miele: Though testaroli are generally savory, one can make them sweet too. This recipe would also work with chocolate crepes or Swedish pancakes.
Apple or Pear Pie with Pecorino -- Torta di Mele o Pere al Pecorino
Apple or Pear Pie with Pecorino, or Torta di Mele o Pere al Pecorino: Though one often encounters fruit crostata in Italy, fruit pies are relatively rare. However, there are some, and this one's tasty.
A Rustic Almond Torte -- Torta Rustica di Mandorle
A Rustic Almond Torte, or Torta Rustica di Mandorle: Almonds appear more often than any other flavoring agent in the dessert recipes of old Italian cookbooks, and they play a huge roll in this tart, which one might also call an almond crostata. The recipe is from Versilia, on the Tuscan coast.
Potato Strudel -- Struculo di Patate
Potato Strudel, or Struculo di Patate: The potatoes are in the dough, not the filling -- a strucolo is a Friulian strudel, and in many cases the dough includes ingredients other than flour. The cooking methods are also variable, and in this case the strudel, which is filled with apples, nuts, and other good things, is boiled rather than baked. The recipe is from the city of Gorizia.
Chocolate Strudel -- Strucolo al Cioccolato
Chocolate Strudel, or Strucolo al Cioccolato: A strucolo is a Friulian strudel; in some cases they're wrapped in cloth and boiled, but here it's baked.
Apricot or Cherry Strudel -- Strucolo di Albicocche o Ciliege
Apricot or Cherry Strudel, Strucolo di Albicocche o Ciliege: A strucolo is a Friulian strudel; in some cases they're wrapped in cloth and boiled, but here it's baked. There are a great many fruit-based strudels (the classic Viennese Apple Strudel comes to mind), and you could use other fruit here instead of the two I've selected; simply keep the proportions constant and things will work.
Strucolo dei Capuccini
Strucolo dei Capuccini: A strucolo is a Friulian strudel; in some cases they're wrapped in cloth and boiled, but here it's baked. The recipe will serve 6. You'll need:
Christmas Sfogliata -- Sfogliata di Natale
Christmas Sfogliata, or Sfogliata di Natale: This is a dish from the town of Cerignola that the authors of Altamura Antichi Sapori liked enough to include in their book dedicated to the cooking of Altamura, a town in northwestern Puglia.
An Apple-Cream Crostata -- Crostata di Mela con Crema
An Apple-Cream Crostata, or Crostata di Mela con Crema: The first time I visited Versilia (the town of Cinquale, to be exact), I discovered a bakery that had an astonishing selection of fresh fruit crostate. It's now a bicycle repair place, proof that change is not always synonymous with progress, but I'm happy to have found at least this recipe.
Fig and Peach Cake -- Torta di Fichi e Pesche
Fig and Peach Cake, or Torta di Fichi e Pesche: This is a tasty Piemontese recipe that will be perfect in late summer, when figs and peaches are at their ripest. You'll need:
Cuccia
Winding down with Calabrian sweets, Mr. Cavalcanti also gives a recipe for Cuccía, a pasty traditionally made for Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy, who is celebrated December 13). Cavalcanti quotes a Mr. Dorsa, who says Cuccía derives from Byzantine Greek. This would suggest the recipe is quite old...
Rice Pie -- Torta di Riso
Torta di Riso, or Rice Pie: I was recently asked for a recipe for torta di riso, rice pie. It's one of the quintessential simple north Italian pastries, and is also a wonderful way of dealing with a carton of milk that has reached its use-by date but is still good.
Sienese Ricotta Pie -- Torta di Ricotta
I've had a number of requests for a torta di ricotta, ricotta pie, of late. Like all other traditional recipes, there are many variations to this, some simple and others quite complex. Here's a fairly simple Sienese version, once an Easter treat but now made year round.
Neapolitan Ricotta Pie -- Torta di Ricotta
I've had a number of requests for a torta di ricotta, ricotta pie, of late. Like all other traditional recipes, there are many variations to this, some simple and others quite complex. Here's a Neapolitan version that's on the complex side.
Fruit Pie -- Torta Ripiena di Frutta
Torta Ripiena di Frutta, or Fruit Pie: One usually doesn't associate pies with Italy -- fruit tarts and crostate yes, but honest-to-God pies no. Indeed, in presenting a recipe for apple pie Artusi feels it necessary to caution his readers that the dessert is in fact good. This particular exception to the rule is from the Brianza region in Lombardy.
Chilled Nutella Semifreddo with Pistachio Nuts -- Semifreddo di Nutella con Pistacchi
Nutella, Ferrero's famed chocolate-hazelnut spread, turned 40 this fall (2004), and there have been stores on the news and in the papers. Recipes too, including this sformato. It calls for pistachios, which are quite nice, but will also work well with other nuts, especially walnuts, if that's your preference.
Torta della Nonna
Torta della Nonna: Chrissy asked for a recipe for Torta della Nonna -- Grandma's Cake -- which is, according to Leonardo Romanelli, one of the few consistent highlights in the "dreary Florentine pastry scene". He notes that it's difficult to find it made with ricotta in bakeries, because of ricotta doesn't keep so well, but that's what you'll find at home.
La Pizza Ricresciuta
La Pizza Ricresciuta is a "regrown pizza," meaning that its dough has risen anew after having been tamped down, and is the classic Roman Easter cake.
Tagliatelle Pie -- Torta di Tagliatelle
Donna wrote: "I made your e-mail acquaintance more than a year ago in connection with your translation of Artusi's timpano recipe--great! I'm wondering if can come to my rescue with a recipe for torta di tagliatelle. Suddenly I find myself anxious to try this torta (who knows why?), but I can't find a recipe either on my bookshelves or on the Internet." Here we go. This is a specialty of the city of Mantova.
Wine Grape Pie -- Schiacciata con l'Uva
One of the nicest things about autumn in Tuscany is Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy pastry whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. This is a fairly elegant, city version, in which the traditional lard and honey have been replaced by olive oil and sugar. You will need wine grapes, because those sold for consumption at table are too watery and not sweet enough.
Migliaccio, Seven Years Later -- Il Migliaccio, Sette Anni Dopo
I recently received a request from Cathy, via AOL, for a migliaccio recipe made with corn meal and cooked on the top of the stove. In Northern and Central Italy Migliaccio is either a pig's blood concoction (which is rare nowadays because of the difficulties involved in procuring fresh blood) that can be salty or sweet, or a winter pastry made with chestnut flour -- obviously not what Cathy had in mind.
Almond Pie -- Torta alle Mandorle
Moving onto other things, Stu Borken recently requested a Torta alle Mandorle, "a round, about 8-inch diameter pie made from cake or cookie crust with a soft sweet almond flavored filling, and, I think, a lattice crust. To die for!" This sounds roughly right:
Chestnut Flour Migliaccio, Commonly Known as Castagnaccio
Until quite recently the chestnut played a central role in the diet of the people of Lunigiana. This recipe isn't exactly Lunigianan, but it is one of the best uses for chestnut flour I know of. It's taken from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Art of Eating Well, the first commercially successful Italian cookbook aimed at middle class households. The recipe gives a good idea of why Artusi is still popular 110 years after his book came out.
Pieno di Natale
Pieno di Natale is a traditional, rustic chestnut-based Christmas dessert that Emiliana Lucchesi was given by a Benedictine nun in the Lunigiana, a wild section of northern Tuscany. Quite a far cry from the Marrons Glacées enjoyed by the wealthy!
La Pastiera Napoletana - Neapolitan Grain Pie
Neapolitan Cuisine has many dishes identified with one festival or another, which in the past were made only then: le lasagne del Carnevale, for Carnival, struffoli at Christmas, and a several Easter pastries, the most important of which is the Pastiera, a centuries-old dish that appears in innumerable versions, each made according to a closely guarded family recipe...
Fresh Fig Crostata -- Crostata di Fichi Freschi
If you're lucky enough to live where really good figs are available, here is a tasty fresh fig crostata.
Pasta Frolla -- Shortbread
Pasta frolla is quite similar to shortbread, and is used primarily to make pies, cookies and crostate, though it does also get used in some main-course dishes, for example pasticcio di tortellini all'emiliana. This recipe, which is derived from Artusi, is pretty much standard.
Raspberry Cheesecake -- Cheesecake Ai Lamponi
I occasionally get requests for Italian cheesecakes; the person is usually looking for torta di ricotta, which is one of the more classic and standard simple Italian desserts. To be honest, it isn't what I recognize as a cheesecake. However, though I have yet to come across a New York-style cheesecake in Italy, I have begun to encounter cakes that draw from the traditions a North American would recognize, and they can be very good. In this case, raspberries also enter the picture.
Cassadetti & Cassata alla Siciliana
A sumptuous Sicilian dessert, made with pan di spagna and a rich ricotta-based filling. Worthy of important occasions! Also, Cassadetti, smaller variations on the theme.
La Crostata
Shortbread topped with jam or fresh fruit -- the former is classic Tuscan home cooking, while the latter can be extraordinarily elegant.
Almond Date Tart
A perfect fusion, from Stu Borken.
Buccellato della Lunigiana
A traditional cake from the mountains of Tuscany.
Chocolate Turtle Tart
A spectacular chocolate pie with a ground nut crust that makes it perfect for Passover too. From Stu Borken.
Torta del Re
King's Cake, a delicate cake made with almonds, which could also be made with other nuts, and is perfect for Passover.
Chocolate Espresso Torte
This is not traditional Italian, but it is an excellent excuse to brew more coffee!
Chocolate Lasagna
There is a long tradition of using pasta in desserts, and this looks very good.
A Dried Fig Crostata
Presented by the folks who make Bertolli olive oil. It should be quite nice in winter.
Pumpkin Pie Risotto
An interesting, very different dessert.
Profiteroles
Simple cream puffs.
Profiteroles
An easy-to-follow step-by-step recipe.
Sweet Fritatta With Spring Strawberries and Ricotta
"This makes an excellent brunch dish for two," says Erica De mane, and it will also be a tasty somewhat different dessert.

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