Recipes, wines and more from Lombardia
Italian cooking is extremely regional. Here you'll find recipes from Lombardia, ranging from the fish of the lakes to the game of the high Alps. And wines too!
Home-Style Roast Ossobuco - Ossibuchi al Forno alla Casalinga
Ossobuco, veal or beef shank, is an extraordinarily sensual meat, with a texture that verges on the libidinous. It does take a while to cook, but if you make this recipe, you won't have to watch it at all for most of the time. In short, a perfect dish for when you're busy doing other things!
Ossobuco, veal or beef shank, is an extraordinarily sensual meat, with a texture that verges on the libidinous. It does take a while to cook, but if you make this recipe, you won't have to watch it at all for most of the time. In short, a perfect dish for when you're busy doing other things!
Pig Skins and Beans - Cotenne e Fagioli
People don't often eat pork skins any more, but back in the days when famine was always lurking nothing was allowed to go to waste. And as is often the case with so-called lesser meats, the ingenuity people used in preparing them led to very tasty dishes. Pork and beans are an old standby, and as you might guess, you can also use pork skins. This recipe is from Lombardia, and will be a very nice way of keeping winter at bay.
People don't often eat pork skins any more, but back in the days when famine was always lurking nothing was allowed to go to waste. And as is often the case with so-called lesser meats, the ingenuity people used in preparing them led to very tasty dishes. Pork and beans are an old standby, and as you might guess, you can also use pork skins. This recipe is from Lombardia, and will be a very nice way of keeping winter at bay.
Sbrofadej
Boiled dinner is quite popular in Northern Italy during the winter months. The meats are cheap, and the cooking process nicely warms the kitchen. And you get to start your meal with a steaming bowl of soup. In Emilia Romagna the poor would combine bread crumbs and eggs to make passatelli. In Lombardia they do something similar, but use flour rather than breadcrumbs: Sbrofadej.
Boiled dinner is quite popular in Northern Italy during the winter months. The meats are cheap, and the cooking process nicely warms the kitchen. And you get to start your meal with a steaming bowl of soup. In Emilia Romagna the poor would combine bread crumbs and eggs to make passatelli. In Lombardia they do something similar, but use flour rather than breadcrumbs: Sbrofadej.
Lo Spiedo Bresciano: The Brescian Spit
Spit-roasted game birds is Brescia's signature dish, and rightly so. They're very good, and bring joy to the table.
Spit-roasted game birds is Brescia's signature dish, and rightly so. They're very good, and bring joy to the table.
Cucina Brianzola
Delightful recipes from a relatively unknown branch of Lombard cuisine.
Delightful recipes from a relatively unknown branch of Lombard cuisine.
Polenta Fritters Lodigiana Style -- Frittelle di Polenta alla Lodigiana
Polenta Fritters Lodigiana Style, or Frittelle di Polenta alla Lodigiana: Polenta Fritters Lodigiana Style, or Frittelle di Polenta alla Lodigiana: This is a specialty of the Lodigiana region in Lombardia, where families pass their specific versions of the recipe from generation to generation.
Polenta Fritters Lodigiana Style, or Frittelle di Polenta alla Lodigiana: Polenta Fritters Lodigiana Style, or Frittelle di Polenta alla Lodigiana: This is a specialty of the Lodigiana region in Lombardia, where families pass their specific versions of the recipe from generation to generation.
Polenta Viandese Style: Polenta alla Viandese
Polenta, seasoned with lemon zest, sugar, and fried: a traditional snack or breakfast in Mantova.
Polenta, seasoned with lemon zest, sugar, and fried: a traditional snack or breakfast in Mantova.
Polenta with Beans: Polenta coi Fasoi
Polenta with beans, a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Polenta with beans, a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Milanese Biscotti -- Biscottini di Milano
Milanese Biscotti, or Biscottini di Milano: These are simple, but you'll find that they go very fast.
Milanese Biscotti, or Biscottini di Milano: These are simple, but you'll find that they go very fast.
Beans of the Dead -- Fave dei Morti
Beans of the Dead, or Fave dei Morti: There are many versions of the Bones of the Dead, cookies Italians make for the Day of the Dead, November 2. This version is Lombard, and is made with almonds, pine nuts, and lemon.
Beans of the Dead, or Fave dei Morti: There are many versions of the Bones of the Dead, cookies Italians make for the Day of the Dead, November 2. This version is Lombard, and is made with almonds, pine nuts, and lemon.
Il Panettone Milanese -- Milanese Panettone
Il Panettone Milanese: Panettone is Milano's signature Christmas cake, and has become popular throughout Italy because it can be made (well) industrially, and as a result can be widely distributed. Of course the homemade cake will be fresher, and you can tailor it to meet your tastes. It takes a bit of effort, but the results are well worth it.
Il Panettone Milanese: Panettone is Milano's signature Christmas cake, and has become popular throughout Italy because it can be made (well) industrially, and as a result can be widely distributed. Of course the homemade cake will be fresher, and you can tailor it to meet your tastes. It takes a bit of effort, but the results are well worth it.
Mantovana Ring Cake -- Ciambella Mantovana
The Mantovana, named after the city of Mantova, is tremendously simple, and, as a friend who has lived in Italy off and on but is now in the US remarked, "smells like Italy." The aroma certainly does evoke northern country cooking, and a mantovana with a glass of vinsanto is a wonderful way to end a meal. With coffee, on the other hand, it's an excellent breakfast.
The Mantovana, named after the city of Mantova, is tremendously simple, and, as a friend who has lived in Italy off and on but is now in the US remarked, "smells like Italy." The aroma certainly does evoke northern country cooking, and a mantovana with a glass of vinsanto is a wonderful way to end a meal. With coffee, on the other hand, it's an excellent breakfast.
Polenta e Osei
Laura writes: "When visiting my relatives in Bergamo I have seen a wonderful cake that is made to look like polenta with birds. It is sold all over the old town. I brought one back this time to try to figure out how to make it. My friend and I think we have figured out the cake and filling. Do you have a recipe for it? Specifically, we are having a problem with the outside. It appears to have corn meal in it, but the outside layer almost peels off. We are stumped. Any ideas?"
Laura writes: "When visiting my relatives in Bergamo I have seen a wonderful cake that is made to look like polenta with birds. It is sold all over the old town. I brought one back this time to try to figure out how to make it. My friend and I think we have figured out the cake and filling. Do you have a recipe for it? Specifically, we are having a problem with the outside. It appears to have corn meal in it, but the outside layer almost peels off. We are stumped. Any ideas?"
Trout Dogana Style -- Trota alla Dogana
This is a recipe sent me by Alessandra Tiraboschi, who makes a fine white wine, Lugana, at Ca Lojera.
This is a recipe sent me by Alessandra Tiraboschi, who makes a fine white wine, Lugana, at Ca Lojera.
Apricot Custard: Albicocche nelle Chicchere
An interesting apricot custard, and a variation on the theme made with peaches.
An interesting apricot custard, and a variation on the theme made with peaches.
Stuffed Turkey Hen -- Tacchinella Ripiena
Stuffed Turkey Hen, or Tacchinella Ripiena: This is the traditional centerpiece of the Christmas dinner in Lombardia, but will also work nicely for Thanksgiving. As is the case with Ada Boni's recipe, this one calls for a small bird. If yours is larger, adjust the proportions accordingly.
Stuffed Turkey Hen, or Tacchinella Ripiena: This is the traditional centerpiece of the Christmas dinner in Lombardia, but will also work nicely for Thanksgiving. As is the case with Ada Boni's recipe, this one calls for a small bird. If yours is larger, adjust the proportions accordingly.
Polenta Pasticciata alla Lombarda
A rich baked polenta with cheese that will help keep the chill of winter at bay.
A rich baked polenta with cheese that will help keep the chill of winter at bay.
Polenta Pasticciata alla Milanese
A rich, elegant baked polenta dish with meat and mushrooms to keep winter at bay.
A rich, elegant baked polenta dish with meat and mushrooms to keep winter at bay.
Polenta coi Fasoi
Polenta with beans, a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Polenta with beans, a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Rice with Turnips Milanese Style -- Riso con le Rape alla Milanese
Rice with Turnips Milanese Style, or Riso con le Rape alla Milanese: "Here's a refined dish, thats perfect for coddling our stomachs after a banquet or other event that has tried our digestions," writes Adriano De Carlo in Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde. "Indeed, if you have overdone things, rice with turnips is the best thing you can cook in memory of your excesses: It will restore you."
Rice with Turnips Milanese Style, or Riso con le Rape alla Milanese: "Here's a refined dish, thats perfect for coddling our stomachs after a banquet or other event that has tried our digestions," writes Adriano De Carlo in Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde. "Indeed, if you have overdone things, rice with turnips is the best thing you can cook in memory of your excesses: It will restore you."
Risotto for the Malcontent -- Risotto per i Malcontenti
Risotto for the Malcontent, or Risotto per i Malcontenti: Though the title might strike one as odd, it's apt, as it will make things look better, as I discovered one night that I was decidedly grumpy.
Risotto for the Malcontent, or Risotto per i Malcontenti: Though the title might strike one as odd, it's apt, as it will make things look better, as I discovered one night that I was decidedly grumpy.
Risotto with Beans -- Risotto coi Fagioli
Risotto with Beans: This is similar to risotto rustì but has tomato and pancetta added. If you cannot find borlotti, which are known as Cranberry Beans in the US (they're medium sized, and light tan with abundant brown spots), use kidney beans or Mexican black beans, which look very different but are similar in flavor. The recipe is Lombard.
Risotto with Beans: This is similar to risotto rustì but has tomato and pancetta added. If you cannot find borlotti, which are known as Cranberry Beans in the US (they're medium sized, and light tan with abundant brown spots), use kidney beans or Mexican black beans, which look very different but are similar in flavor. The recipe is Lombard.
Risotto with Bell Peppers -- Risotto con i Peperoni
Risotto with Bell Peppers: This is a specialty from Voghera, a city in the southern side of the Po Valley, between Piacenza and Alessandria. The region is famed for its peppers, which are also very good grilled with bagna caoda.
Risotto with Bell Peppers: This is a specialty from Voghera, a city in the southern side of the Po Valley, between Piacenza and Alessandria. The region is famed for its peppers, which are also very good grilled with bagna caoda.
Risotto Rusti
A delicate risotto with beans from Lombardia.
A delicate risotto with beans from Lombardia.
Risotto with Milk and Beans: Risotto col Latte e Fagioli
Cooking rice in milk is the traditional way in Brianza, a section of Lombardia not far from Milano.
Cooking rice in milk is the traditional way in Brianza, a section of Lombardia not far from Milano.
Chicken Salad with Renette Apples -- Insalata di Pollo con Mele Renette
Chicken Salad with Renette Apples, or Insalata di Pollo con Mele Renette: Renette apples are strongly flavored, are a bit grainy, and have a warm citric acidity (as opposed to the cool crispness of a Granny Smith). The recipe is from the Osteria Vecchio Botticino in Brescia.
Chicken Salad with Renette Apples, or Insalata di Pollo con Mele Renette: Renette apples are strongly flavored, are a bit grainy, and have a warm citric acidity (as opposed to the cool crispness of a Granny Smith). The recipe is from the Osteria Vecchio Botticino in Brescia.
Lombard Minestrone with Squash -- Minestrone Alla Lombarda
Lombard Minestrone with Squash, or Minestrone Alla Lombarda: Minestrone Alla Lombarda, with Squash -- Squash and pasta add substance to this soup, which is nicely seasoned with grated Parmigiano. It builds on a basic minestrone that you can make the day before, if need be.
Lombard Minestrone with Squash, or Minestrone Alla Lombarda: Minestrone Alla Lombarda, with Squash -- Squash and pasta add substance to this soup, which is nicely seasoned with grated Parmigiano. It builds on a basic minestrone that you can make the day before, if need be.
Milanese Minestrone -- Minestrone alla Milanese
Milanese Minestrone, or Minestrone alla Milanese: "We know," writes Adriano De Carlo, from whose 's Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde this recipe is drawn, "that nowadays people buy frozen minestrone and that it’s actually not bad. Modern cooking is based on the assumption that people have considerably less time to dedicate to the burner; one has many other things to do and time flies...
Milanese Minestrone, or Minestrone alla Milanese: "We know," writes Adriano De Carlo, from whose 's Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde this recipe is drawn, "that nowadays people buy frozen minestrone and that it’s actually not bad. Modern cooking is based on the assumption that people have considerably less time to dedicate to the burner; one has many other things to do and time flies...
Duck Cassoeula -- Cassoeula D'Anatra
Duck Cassoeula, or Cassoeula D'Anatra: Kathleen asked for a recipe for Cassoeula a while back. It's a classic Milanese winter dish that is, according to Antonio Piccinardi, common to areas once inhabited by Celts. There are many variations. This is from Brianza, an area that once was marshy, and rather than the usual pork, the recipe calls for duck.
Duck Cassoeula, or Cassoeula D'Anatra: Kathleen asked for a recipe for Cassoeula a while back. It's a classic Milanese winter dish that is, according to Antonio Piccinardi, common to areas once inhabited by Celts. There are many variations. This is from Brianza, an area that once was marshy, and rather than the usual pork, the recipe calls for duck.
Cassoeula
Cassoeula: Kathleen asked for a recipe for Cassoeula a while back. It's a classic Milanese winter dish, a thick, hearty pork, sausage, and cabbage soup that is, according to Antonio Piccinardi, common throughout the areas once inhabited by the Celts. In other words, one can find similar things in France and Spain. He says there's considerable variation from cook to cook...
Cassoeula: Kathleen asked for a recipe for Cassoeula a while back. It's a classic Milanese winter dish, a thick, hearty pork, sausage, and cabbage soup that is, according to Antonio Piccinardi, common throughout the areas once inhabited by the Celts. In other words, one can find similar things in France and Spain. He says there's considerable variation from cook to cook...
Milanese Tripe Soup: Busecca
Don't blanch until you've tried it; this rich beany soup is winter comfort food at its finest.
Don't blanch until you've tried it; this rich beany soup is winter comfort food at its finest.
Onion Soup: Supa de Scigol
Milano's onion soup is much like what they make in France, but perhaps richer.
Milano's onion soup is much like what they make in France, but perhaps richer.
Fave dei Morti
Lombard Bones of the Dead, with lemon and cinnamon.
Lombard Bones of the Dead, with lemon and cinnamon.
Braised Beef Brescia Style -- Braciato Alla Bresciana
A simple, tasty braised beef recipe that will also provide a nice sauce for pasta, and would be a good bet for making meatballs too.
A simple, tasty braised beef recipe that will also provide a nice sauce for pasta, and would be a good bet for making meatballs too.
Milanese Stew -- Stufato Milanese
Milanese Stew, or Stufato Milanese: Almost every region of Italy has a stew it calls its own. This variation is Milanese, and it will also work well with lamb or pork; the important thing is that the pieces of meat not be too small, because if they're small then the dish is a spezzatino as opposed to a stufato. He goes on to say that the quality of the red wine is important for the success of the marinating, and warns not to overcook it. To serve 4:
Milanese Stew, or Stufato Milanese: Almost every region of Italy has a stew it calls its own. This variation is Milanese, and it will also work well with lamb or pork; the important thing is that the pieces of meat not be too small, because if they're small then the dish is a spezzatino as opposed to a stufato. He goes on to say that the quality of the red wine is important for the success of the marinating, and warns not to overcook it. To serve 4:
Rovato Beef with Olive Oil -- Manzo di Rovato all'Olio
Rovato Beef with Olive Oil, Manzo di Rovato all'Olio: This is a classic dish from Rovato, one of the towns in the Franciacorta production area.
Rovato Beef with Olive Oil, Manzo di Rovato all'Olio: This is a classic dish from Rovato, one of the towns in the Franciacorta production area.
Ossibuchi alla Milanese
Milano is known for a number of dishes, including cotoletta alla milanese, ossobuco, and risotto alla milanese. The former, which is quite easy and very tasty if properly done, has spread throughout the rest of the Peninsula. The other two haven't -- people often refer to them in hushed tones, as if there were great secrets involved in their preparation. It's a pity, because they're both very good, and neither is particularly difficult.
Milano is known for a number of dishes, including cotoletta alla milanese, ossobuco, and risotto alla milanese. The former, which is quite easy and very tasty if properly done, has spread throughout the rest of the Peninsula. The other two haven't -- people often refer to them in hushed tones, as if there were great secrets involved in their preparation. It's a pity, because they're both very good, and neither is particularly difficult.
Risotto Mantova Style -- Risotto alla Mantovana
Risotto Mantova Style: I'm not sure why a risotto made with sausages is alla Mantovana. The recipe calls for Mantovan sausages; in their absence substitute mild Italian sausages, not the more spicy variety.
Risotto Mantova Style: I'm not sure why a risotto made with sausages is alla Mantovana. The recipe calls for Mantovan sausages; in their absence substitute mild Italian sausages, not the more spicy variety.
Milanese Asparagus -- Asparagi alla Milanese
Milanese Asparagus, or Asparagi alla Milanese: Though there are a couple of areas in Lombardia where asparagus is grown, for the most part Lombardi are content to let others do the growing and simply cook them. Quite well; Plutarch tells of Julius Caesar's visiting Mediolanum (the Celtic city that became Milano), and being offered asparagus served with butter, rather than the oil the Romas were used to. Caesar enjoyed them very much.
Milanese Asparagus, or Asparagi alla Milanese: Though there are a couple of areas in Lombardia where asparagus is grown, for the most part Lombardi are content to let others do the growing and simply cook them. Quite well; Plutarch tells of Julius Caesar's visiting Mediolanum (the Celtic city that became Milano), and being offered asparagus served with butter, rather than the oil the Romas were used to. Caesar enjoyed them very much.
Polenta and Beans: Polenta coi Fasoi
Polenta with beans makes for a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Polenta with beans makes for a tasty antipasto, or a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew.
Stewed Beans -- Fagioli in Umido
This is a classic recipe from the Brianza region, in the foothills of the Alps overlooking Milano.
This is a classic recipe from the Brianza region, in the foothills of the Alps overlooking Milano.
Beans, Onions and Cingherlin Cheese -- Fagioli, Cipolla e Cingherlin (or Zincarlin)
Beans, Onions and Cingherlin Cheese, or Fagioli, Cipolla e Cingherlin: This is a Lombard recipe, and to be frank I've never had Cingherlin cheese. However, Mr. Pradelli says to slice it finely or dice it, which means that it's moderately firm, and I would expect it to be fairly mild too -- along the lines of a fresh (as opposed to aged) Grana.
Beans, Onions and Cingherlin Cheese, or Fagioli, Cipolla e Cingherlin: This is a Lombard recipe, and to be frank I've never had Cingherlin cheese. However, Mr. Pradelli says to slice it finely or dice it, which means that it's moderately firm, and I would expect it to be fairly mild too -- along the lines of a fresh (as opposed to aged) Grana.
Fresh Beans Mantovana Style -- Fagioli Freschi alla Mantovana
This is actually more of a vegetable medley than just beans; it will be nice served as side dish or over pasta.
This is actually more of a vegetable medley than just beans; it will be nice served as side dish or over pasta.
Busecca – Milanese Tripe Soup
Busecca, or Milanese Tripe Soup: According to Adriano de Carlo the word trippa, tripe in English, derives from the Arabic tarb, which means omentum, the folds of the peritoneum that cover the liver and the colon. I am not sure how one gets from omentum to the first stomach of the cow, but that’s what tripe is – no peritoneum involved. As is the case with the names of many other cuts of meat in Italy, trippa is not universal...
Busecca, or Milanese Tripe Soup: According to Adriano de Carlo the word trippa, tripe in English, derives from the Arabic tarb, which means omentum, the folds of the peritoneum that cover the liver and the colon. I am not sure how one gets from omentum to the first stomach of the cow, but that’s what tripe is – no peritoneum involved. As is the case with the names of many other cuts of meat in Italy, trippa is not universal...
Tagliatelle Pie -- Torta di Tagliatelle
Donna wrote: "I made your e-mail acquaintance more than a year ago in connection with your translation of Artusi's timpano recipe--great! I'm wondering if can come to my rescue with a recipe for torta di tagliatelle. Suddenly I find myself anxious to try this torta (who knows why?), but I can't find a recipe either on my bookshelves or on the Internet." Here we go. This is a specialty of the city of Mantova.
Donna wrote: "I made your e-mail acquaintance more than a year ago in connection with your translation of Artusi's timpano recipe--great! I'm wondering if can come to my rescue with a recipe for torta di tagliatelle. Suddenly I find myself anxious to try this torta (who knows why?), but I can't find a recipe either on my bookshelves or on the Internet." Here we go. This is a specialty of the city of Mantova.
Veal Rollups with Anchovies -- Involtini con le Acciughe
This is a Lombard recipe. The combination of meat and fish may strike you as strange, but is common in Lombard cooking -- vitello tonnato comes to mind -- and extremely nice in the summer months.
This is a Lombard recipe. The combination of meat and fish may strike you as strange, but is common in Lombard cooking -- vitello tonnato comes to mind -- and extremely nice in the summer months.
Veal Piccata with Parsley -- Piccata di Vitello al Prezzemolo
And finally, I've gotten a number of requests for Chicken Française this summer. I'm sorry to say I've drawn a complete blank. Pollo alla francese (or variations thereof) isn't mentioned in any of my Italian cookbooks, so I checked my English-language cookbooks as well. Nothing there either. I did find veal piccata, however, which has also been requested. It's a Milanese specialty that calls for thinly sliced veal, but can also be made with chicken or turkey breast.
And finally, I've gotten a number of requests for Chicken Française this summer. I'm sorry to say I've drawn a complete blank. Pollo alla francese (or variations thereof) isn't mentioned in any of my Italian cookbooks, so I checked my English-language cookbooks as well. Nothing there either. I did find veal piccata, however, which has also been requested. It's a Milanese specialty that calls for thinly sliced veal, but can also be made with chicken or turkey breast.
Milanese Veal Cutlet, La Cotoletta Alla Milanese
Surfing the net the other night, I came across a recipe for Wienerschnitzel and realized how closely it resembles the Cotoletta alla Milanese: Both are breaded veal cutlets; the Viennese bone theirs and dredge them in both flour and bread crumbs, whereas the Milanese just use bread crumbs, and the Viennese fry in lard whereas the Milanese use butter. To prepare this you should use veal, though you can, if you prefer, substitute thinly sliced beef.
Surfing the net the other night, I came across a recipe for Wienerschnitzel and realized how closely it resembles the Cotoletta alla Milanese: Both are breaded veal cutlets; the Viennese bone theirs and dredge them in both flour and bread crumbs, whereas the Milanese just use bread crumbs, and the Viennese fry in lard whereas the Milanese use butter. To prepare this you should use veal, though you can, if you prefer, substitute thinly sliced beef.
Risotto with Milk and Beans -- Risotto col Latte e Fagioli
Risotto col Latte e Fagioli, Risotto with Milk and Beans: Though using milk instead of broth to make a risotto might strike some as odd, according to Ottorina Bozzi it's common practice in Brianza, a part of Lombardy not far from Milan. This recipe should serve 6 or so; it will be especially nice in the summer when freshly shelled beans are available.
Risotto col Latte e Fagioli, Risotto with Milk and Beans: Though using milk instead of broth to make a risotto might strike some as odd, according to Ottorina Bozzi it's common practice in Brianza, a part of Lombardy not far from Milan. This recipe should serve 6 or so; it will be especially nice in the summer when freshly shelled beans are available.
Risotto al Salto
It's hard to believe one could ever have leftover risotto alla milanese. However, stranger things have happened, and this is a traditional way of reworking it. The term, al salto, means tossed; Alessandro Molinari Pradelli says "the tossing is best left to expert cooks who know how to handle a skillet." The less expert may want to cover the skillet with a lip-free lid, flip everything, and then slide the rice back into the skillet to brown the other side.
It's hard to believe one could ever have leftover risotto alla milanese. However, stranger things have happened, and this is a traditional way of reworking it. The term, al salto, means tossed; Alessandro Molinari Pradelli says "the tossing is best left to expert cooks who know how to handle a skillet." The less expert may want to cover the skillet with a lip-free lid, flip everything, and then slide the rice back into the skillet to brown the other side.
Roasted Risotto -- Risotto Rustì
Risotto Rustì: This Lombard recipe is an intriguing mixture of beans and rice. The beans called for, borlotti, are known as cranberry beans in the US. If you cannot find them, use kidney beans or black beans (the Mexican variety), either of which more closely resembles borlotti in flavor than do white beans. As a final point, though the recipe calls for dried beans it will be even better when fresh beans are available. Increase the weight of beans to 3/4 pound (300 g) if you use fresh ones.
Risotto Rustì: This Lombard recipe is an intriguing mixture of beans and rice. The beans called for, borlotti, are known as cranberry beans in the US. If you cannot find them, use kidney beans or black beans (the Mexican variety), either of which more closely resembles borlotti in flavor than do white beans. As a final point, though the recipe calls for dried beans it will be even better when fresh beans are available. Increase the weight of beans to 3/4 pound (300 g) if you use fresh ones.
Risotto alla Milanese
Artusi remarked, a little more than a century ago, that the preparation of risotto alla milanese is best left to the Milanese and then gave three recipes (two are in my translation of his book) -- this suggests he thought others should enjoy it too. It is true that the dish offers a great chef an excellent opportunity to showcase her talents, but a home cook can do very well with care.
Artusi remarked, a little more than a century ago, that the preparation of risotto alla milanese is best left to the Milanese and then gave three recipes (two are in my translation of his book) -- this suggests he thought others should enjoy it too. It is true that the dish offers a great chef an excellent opportunity to showcase her talents, but a home cook can do very well with care.
Chickpeas with Pork Temple -- Ceci e Tempia di Maiale
Chickpeas with Pork Temple, or Ceci e Tempia di Maiale: Politics sometimes has funny effects in the kitchen. The Spaniards who occupied Milano in the 1600s were great lovers of chickpeas, and this is something the Milanese developed to do with the food of their overlords. When the overlords left the dish remained, and is now traditionally served in Milano on November 2, the day of the Dead.
Chickpeas with Pork Temple, or Ceci e Tempia di Maiale: Politics sometimes has funny effects in the kitchen. The Spaniards who occupied Milano in the 1600s were great lovers of chickpeas, and this is something the Milanese developed to do with the food of their overlords. When the overlords left the dish remained, and is now traditionally served in Milano on November 2, the day of the Dead.
Stewed Green Beans -- Fagiolini in Umido
Fagiolini in Umido, or Stewed Green Beans: As a side dish this Lombard specialty from the Brianza region, not far from Milano, is quite hearty and will work well with a roast or a stew. In the past those who couldn't afford to eat meat on a daily basis (the majority of the population) would also have served it with polenta, as a main course.
Fagiolini in Umido, or Stewed Green Beans: As a side dish this Lombard specialty from the Brianza region, not far from Milano, is quite hearty and will work well with a roast or a stew. In the past those who couldn't afford to eat meat on a daily basis (the majority of the population) would also have served it with polenta, as a main course.
Milanese Charlotte -- Charlotte alla Milanese
Milanese Charlotte, or Charlotte alla Milanese: Charlottes fall into the category of dolci semifreddi, in other words chilled desserts. They are also generally much more elaborate than this Milanese version, generally calling for pan di spagna dipped in liqueur, whipped cream, candied fruit, and all sorts of other things. In short, they're desserts for when company is expected. So is this Milanese version, though not so much for the ingredients as for the presentation.
Milanese Charlotte, or Charlotte alla Milanese: Charlottes fall into the category of dolci semifreddi, in other words chilled desserts. They are also generally much more elaborate than this Milanese version, generally calling for pan di spagna dipped in liqueur, whipped cream, candied fruit, and all sorts of other things. In short, they're desserts for when company is expected. So is this Milanese version, though not so much for the ingredients as for the presentation.
Apricot Custard -- Albicocche nelle Chicchere
Albicocche nelle Chicchere, or Apricot Custard: Chicchere are bowls, and this is a custard from the Brianza region, not far from Milano.
Albicocche nelle Chicchere, or Apricot Custard: Chicchere are bowls, and this is a custard from the Brianza region, not far from Milano.
Vitello Tonnato: Veal in Tuna Sauce
A classic summer dish, and an indispensable part of the Ascension Day feast in Milano.
A classic summer dish, and an indispensable part of the Ascension Day feast in Milano.
Boiled Beef Fried Milanese Style: Lesso fritto alla Milanese
Boiled beef, sliced, fried or sauteed in butter, and served with risotto. Quite satisfying.
Boiled beef, sliced, fried or sauteed in butter, and served with risotto. Quite satisfying.
Rovato Beef Seasoned with Oil: Manzo di Rovato all'Olio
Surprisingly refreshing boiled beef in a tasty vegetable sauce.
Surprisingly refreshing boiled beef in a tasty vegetable sauce.
Pin -- Gnocchi from Piacenza
There are many different kinds of gnocchi in addition to the now standard potato variety. These, from Piacenza, combine greens with ricotta and Parmigiano. To serve 6:
There are many different kinds of gnocchi in addition to the now standard potato variety. These, from Piacenza, combine greens with ricotta and Parmigiano. To serve 6:
Kale in a Casserole -- Cavolo Nero in Casseruola
Kale in a Casserole, or Cavolo Nero in Casseruola: What does winter cold bring to mind? Cabbages, the classic winter vegetables. Though I generally associate kale with Tuscan cooking, and in particular with ribollita, a tasty bread soup that's peasant food at its best, it does also grow in other parts of Italy, including Lombardia, which is where this recipe hales from.
Kale in a Casserole, or Cavolo Nero in Casseruola: What does winter cold bring to mind? Cabbages, the classic winter vegetables. Though I generally associate kale with Tuscan cooking, and in particular with ribollita, a tasty bread soup that's peasant food at its best, it does also grow in other parts of Italy, including Lombardia, which is where this recipe hales from.
Bresaola
Bresaola, the air-cured beef of the Valtellina, is now available in the US! About it, and serving suggestions.
Bresaola, the air-cured beef of the Valtellina, is now available in the US! About it, and serving suggestions.
Milanese Onion Soup -- Supa de Scigol
There are those who use onions with diffident parsimoniousness, writes Adriano De Carlo in his Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde, while the majority use them as an accessory, a necessary evil whose aromas and flavors are somehow noxious. However, the onion, a grassy member of the Lilly family whose bulb is edible, is a gift of the Gods, in part because of its therapeutic qualities.
There are those who use onions with diffident parsimoniousness, writes Adriano De Carlo in his Cazzoeùla, busècca, òss bùs... e altre 97 ricette lombarde, while the majority use them as an accessory, a necessary evil whose aromas and flavors are somehow noxious. However, the onion, a grassy member of the Lilly family whose bulb is edible, is a gift of the Gods, in part because of its therapeutic qualities.
Squash Soup: Minestrone di Zucca Gialla
Though yellow squash was considered poor people's fare in the past, it is both tasty and versatile, as you'll discover if you try this soup.
Though yellow squash was considered poor people's fare in the past, it is both tasty and versatile, as you'll discover if you try this soup.
Fried Boiled Meat, Milanese Style -- Fritto di Lesso alla Milanese
Fritto di Lesso alla Milanese, or Fried Boiled Meat, Milanese Style: One of the delights and drawbacks of making broth at home is having to deal with the boiled meat you also get from the process. While it is quite nice served as is with a variety of sauces and boiled vegetables, one can only do this so often before it becomes tiring. Here's a traditional Milanese option.
Fritto di Lesso alla Milanese, or Fried Boiled Meat, Milanese Style: One of the delights and drawbacks of making broth at home is having to deal with the boiled meat you also get from the process. While it is quite nice served as is with a variety of sauces and boiled vegetables, one can only do this so often before it becomes tiring. Here's a traditional Milanese option.
Artusi's Milanese Cutlet: Cotoletta alla Milanese dell'Artusi
"Anyone can make a veal cutlet," says Artusi, who proposes a tasty variation.
"Anyone can make a veal cutlet," says Artusi, who proposes a tasty variation.
Fried Meatballs: Polpette di Carne Fritta
One wouldn't expect fried meatballs to work with a sparkling wine, but Franciacorta Satèn can match them.
One wouldn't expect fried meatballs to work with a sparkling wine, but Franciacorta Satèn can match them.
Pizzoccheri with Porcini, Savoy Cabbage, and Sage -- Pizzoccheri con Porcini e Verza alla Salvia
Pizzoccheri with Porcini, Savoy Cabbage, and Sage, or Pizzoccheri con Porcini e Verza alla Salvia: Pizzoccheri are a classic pasta type from the Valtellina, up in the mountains of Lombardia, and consequently are ideally suited to mushrooms. If you cannot find pizzoccheri, use whole wheat tagliatelle.
Pizzoccheri with Porcini, Savoy Cabbage, and Sage, or Pizzoccheri con Porcini e Verza alla Salvia: Pizzoccheri are a classic pasta type from the Valtellina, up in the mountains of Lombardia, and consequently are ideally suited to mushrooms. If you cannot find pizzoccheri, use whole wheat tagliatelle.
Fried Meat Balls -- Polpette di carne Fritta
Fried Meat Balls, or Polpette di carne Fritta: This recipe is from the Osteria della Villetta, in Palazzolo (Brescia), and is an excellent way to deal with leftover beef from making broth.
Fried Meat Balls, or Polpette di carne Fritta: This recipe is from the Osteria della Villetta, in Palazzolo (Brescia), and is an excellent way to deal with leftover beef from making broth.
Cassoeula
A rich, satisfying Milanese pork and cabbage stew.
A rich, satisfying Milanese pork and cabbage stew.
Chick Peas and Pork Temple: Ceci e Tempia di Maiale
Chickpeas and pork temple (actually pork meat from throughout the head) is a Milanese dish from the days of the Spanish occupation -- in the 1600s.
Chickpeas and pork temple (actually pork meat from throughout the head) is a Milanese dish from the days of the Spanish occupation -- in the 1600s.
Fresh Bean Medley Mantua Style
A tasty bean-based vegetable medley that will also make a good pasta sauce if you don't cook all the water out of it.
A tasty bean-based vegetable medley that will also make a good pasta sauce if you don't cook all the water out of it.
Rabbit with Bay Leaf -- Coniglio col Lauro
When I was little I horrified a playmate in the US by asking her when her pet rabbit would be ready for butchering -- it never occurred to me that one would keep a rabbit for any other purpose, since I'd seen dozens of rabbits butchered in the kitchen of the villa that hosted my father's excavation south of Siena. This is a Lombard recipe, from the area around Brianza. Rabbits being fairly small, I would expect it to serve 4 or at the most 6.
When I was little I horrified a playmate in the US by asking her when her pet rabbit would be ready for butchering -- it never occurred to me that one would keep a rabbit for any other purpose, since I'd seen dozens of rabbits butchered in the kitchen of the villa that hosted my father's excavation south of Siena. This is a Lombard recipe, from the area around Brianza. Rabbits being fairly small, I would expect it to serve 4 or at the most 6.
How to Make Mostarda -- An Illustrated Recipe
Though the Italian Mostarda does contain mustard, it's only distantly related to the yellow stuff in the squeeze bottle. Rather, it's fruit preserved in syrup that gains quite a kick from a healthy jolt of powdered mustard seed or essence, and is one of the standard condiments served with boiled meats in northern Italy. It's easy to make at home, and also makes an excellent gift.
Though the Italian Mostarda does contain mustard, it's only distantly related to the yellow stuff in the squeeze bottle. Rather, it's fruit preserved in syrup that gains quite a kick from a healthy jolt of powdered mustard seed or essence, and is one of the standard condiments served with boiled meats in northern Italy. It's easy to make at home, and also makes an excellent gift.
Mostarda di Cremona
Mostarda di Cremona: This is what most Italians think of when they hear the word mostarda. It's voluptuous, and though something of an acquired taste (like fine whisky, for that matter), can be addictive. Since the fruit is not finely sliced, you should select pieces that look perfect.
Mostarda di Cremona: This is what most Italians think of when they hear the word mostarda. It's voluptuous, and though something of an acquired taste (like fine whisky, for that matter), can be addictive. Since the fruit is not finely sliced, you should select pieces that look perfect.
Mostarda Mantovana
Mostarda Mantovana: There are many kinds of mostarda. This is made with fruit simmered in syrup, and is excellent with boiled meats, or even cheeses.
Mostarda Mantovana: There are many kinds of mostarda. This is made with fruit simmered in syrup, and is excellent with boiled meats, or even cheeses.
Milanese Ravioli -- Ravioeu Alla Milanese
Milanese Ravioli, or Ravioeu Alla Milanese: "Let's stop calling these agnoletti, rid ourselves of that Romagnan aftertaste, and use the name every self-respecting Lombard uses, especially those from Milano: Ravioli. It's a dish that the learned have traced back to the XV Century, though its origin is unclear: Many different regions claim the honor. However, one need just read the ingredients....
Milanese Ravioli, or Ravioeu Alla Milanese: "Let's stop calling these agnoletti, rid ourselves of that Romagnan aftertaste, and use the name every self-respecting Lombard uses, especially those from Milano: Ravioli. It's a dish that the learned have traced back to the XV Century, though its origin is unclear: Many different regions claim the honor. However, one need just read the ingredients....
Milanese Ravioli -- Ravioeu Alla Milanese
Milanese Ravioli, or Ravioeu Alla Milanese: "Let's stop calling these agnoletti, rid ourselves of that Romagnan aftertaste, and use the name every self-respecting Lombard uses, especially those from Milano: Ravioli. It's a dish that the learned have traced back to the XV Century, though its origin is unclear: Many different regions claim the honor. However, one need just read the ingredients....
Milanese Ravioli, or Ravioeu Alla Milanese: "Let's stop calling these agnoletti, rid ourselves of that Romagnan aftertaste, and use the name every self-respecting Lombard uses, especially those from Milano: Ravioli. It's a dish that the learned have traced back to the XV Century, though its origin is unclear: Many different regions claim the honor. However, one need just read the ingredients....
Recioto: What to serve it with? Tortelli di Zucca!
Recioto: What to serve it with? Tortelli di Zucca! Recioto della Valpolicella is a rich, sweet Veronese wine that Roman aristocrats eagerly sought out 2000 years ago. It's popularity has waned of late in favor of Amarone, but it remains one of the finest accompaniments for cheeses one could think of, especially soft piquant cheeses along the lines of Gorgonzola, which generally clash with the tannins of red wines. Another option is sweet foods...
Recioto: What to serve it with? Tortelli di Zucca! Recioto della Valpolicella is a rich, sweet Veronese wine that Roman aristocrats eagerly sought out 2000 years ago. It's popularity has waned of late in favor of Amarone, but it remains one of the finest accompaniments for cheeses one could think of, especially soft piquant cheeses along the lines of Gorgonzola, which generally clash with the tannins of red wines. Another option is sweet foods...
Duck Cassoeula: Cassoeula D'Anatra
A rich, satisfying Milanese duck and cabbage stew.
A rich, satisfying Milanese duck and cabbage stew.
Baked Zucchini -- Zucchine al Forno
Baked Zucchini, or Zucchine al Forno: A zesty recipe from Lombardia that will serve 6.
Baked Zucchini, or Zucchine al Forno: A zesty recipe from Lombardia that will serve 6.