Central Italian Cooking

At first glance Tuscan food appears simple: Not much in the way of spices other than pepper, few sauces or seasonings other than olive oil, and only a minimum of herbs. Even the bread is unsalted.

In truth it's not simple at all, but rather elemental: Tuscans seek out the best meats, vegetables, fish, and fruit, and once they have the best don't want to add anything that might distract. Chianina beef is superb, for example, so season it with just a little salt when grilling up a Fiorentina (porterhouse steak).

A festive Tuscan meal begins with crostini, slices of toasted bread spread with a dip, followed by either pasta or soup; menus tend to be seasonal with more substantial fare in winter, for example pasta e fagioli (bean soup), ribollita, pasta with game sauce or meat sauce, or lasagna in winter, and lighter fare in summer, for example panzanella or pappa al pomodoro, or pasta with tomato sauce.

The main course follows the same dichotomy, with heartier roasts and stews in the winter months, and more quickly cooked grilled or even fried entrees (meat or fish) in summer. Salads are standard year round, seasoned with olive oil vinegar, and salt -- no pepper -- and beans are also extremely popular. Fresh when available, but dried when there is no choice.

Desserts, with a few exceptions, are quite simple, and for those who want more, Tuscan pecorino, a mild to sharp sheep's milk cheese, is superb. Enjoy it with a pear, or with a glass of good wine.

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