Northern Italian Cuisines

Liguria boasts some of the most rugged topography in Italy, a steady succession of high mountains plunging to the sea, and as a result the population lived (and lives) mostly in the valley mouths, drawing what little substance they could from the flatter parts of the valley floors, and putting their boats to sea, both to fish and to communicate. Indeed, until the railway was built a little more than a century ago it was much easier for people to go by boat than to travel overland, and even now what would be a quick drive on the highway can take hours on the old roads.

Given the scarcity of arable land, it's natural that the Ligurian diet be primarily vegetarian and fish-based; Ligurians do enjoy pasta, but often add potatoes or string beans to the water, and tend to use simple sauces, of which Pesto is perhaps the best known. Ravioli are also a Ligurian creation; most of the traditional recipes are vegetarian, with greens (especially borragine, an herb gathered on mountain slopes) and ricotta, though they can also be meat-filled. And during the spring there are many green-based pies, e.g. torta Pasqualina.

Ligurians enjoy fish is enjoyed in all manner of ways, from hearty fish stews such as buridda and ciupin, through more elegant dishes. Meats, on the other hand, play a lesser role; cima alla genovese, stuffed breast of veal, was for festive occasions, as was tocco di carne, stewed beef.

Ligurian Recipes on Site