Della Cucina, Ossia:

The Art of Cookery is as old as Man: It was born amongst the voluptuous Asians and was subsequently cultivated by the Greeks, who transmitted it to the Romans, among whom cooks rapidly came to be in great demand, well compensated for their art, and of high repute.

The Italians thus laid the foundations of fine cookery; but when they transmitted them to the French the Students rapidly surpassed their Masters: Whereas the French cultivated the Culinary Arts the Italian schools fell into decline, though the French have yet to equal the magnificence of the banquets organized in Italy at towards the close of the XV century. The Culinary Arts, wherever they are cultivated, are evidence of progress and social harmony.

The Culinary Arts merit a position loftier than that they occupy, since their goal is to provide those foods best suited to supporting one's strength and character, in other words, one's health.

Now people seek a simple, wholesome, economical cuisine that's well adapted to all the social classes, and I therefore chose to meet the need with this book.

Thus wrote Giovanni Vialardi in the preface of Trattato di Cucina, Pasticceria Moderna, Credenza e relativa Confettureria,, a fascinating volume with more than 2000 recipes that he published in 1854; among other things, it was one of the first cookbooks to give precise quantities. Delfina Sissoldo Fiorini has recently published a selection from Vialardi's Trattato, which is entitled A Tavola con il Re, At Table with the King. An appropriate title, because as a young man Mr. Vialardi entered into the service of Prince Carlo Alberto di Savoia, who became King in 1831; he subsequently served Carlo's son Vittorio Emanuele II, and rose rapidly, becoming aiutante di cucina (kitchen assistant) and pastry chef in 1848, and, in 1850, capo, head chef, a post he shared with Domenico Gramont.

His Trattato had considerable influence in Northern Italy and enjoyed widespread popularity (as did a second book of economical recipes he published in 1863), though it also had barbs cast in its direction by contemporary authors who objected both to the French that crept into it and to the lavishness of many of the recipes. On the other hand, Mr. Vialardi was the Chef of a Royal House; at the time the cultural beacon to whom almost all turned was France, and therefore French influences permeated the cuisine enjoyed by the aristocracy and the upper classes. Also, as the chef at Court he didn't have the budget constraints that many others had.

He was also writing for a different public, and if the half cup of butter he may call for in a recipe might strike a modern cook as a lot, one has to recall that his audience would have been different: Not the nuclear family with mother, father, and one or two children, but rather the extended family with grandparents, an aunt and uncle, perhaps, and also some cousins, all of whom were used to abundance at the table because abundance was a mark of distinction at a time when the poor made do with almost nothing. Not that they necessarily finished it all, but they did want it, and if they didn't finish it it did go to good use, either recycled into tasty treats (the leftover roast often became meat-filled pasta, for example), enjoyed by the staff, or given away.

His book also provides an interesting view into another world: He was writing long before electricity or gas, and though a modern cook would be able to cope with the absence of the latter fairly easily (and indeed there are modern cooks who swear by wood-fired stoves), the lack of electricity would require a major readjustment. Put simply, refrigeration was a luxury enjoyed by the few wealthy enough to be able to afford ice, and even for them it was limited; iceboxes were small and only worked if ice was available. Therefore the patterns of food buying were vastly different; people bought almost everything that wasn't cured one way or another locally, looking it over warily for signs of spoilage before they reached into their purses, and then hurried it home to prepare it. Unpleasant surprises did occasionally happen, and to cover taints or smells those who could afford to turned to abundant spices and seasonings. A man of Vialardi's experience was less likely to be hoodwinked than most, and he shares his experience. For example, he says that once you get your meat home, "be it beef, veal, mutton, poultry, game, or fish, clean it, remove the giblets if it's a bird, pat the blood away, and rub the exposed flesh with lemon juice and vinegar, then dust it with salt and black pepper. Fill the cavity with absorbent paper and wrap it in a cloth to protect it from fly eggs that will fill it with worms. Hang it in a cool well-ventilated place in the cellar, because damp air and heat will ruin meat." He also discusses a variety of other techniques for preserving foods, including boiling, salting, pickling, and packing in fat.

Next, Some Recipes