Sardinian Cooking
Though one might expect an island to rely heavily on fish, Sardinians always looked inland, prizing pastureland and the foods it provides, especially pecorino cheese and lamb, above all else. Like all islands, it was a crossroads and there are many recipes braught by visitors, especially the Spanish.
Bread Soup Gallurese Style - Zuppa di Pane alla Gallurese
Bread soup is common throughout Italy, and there are many variations on the theme. Some are wintry, whereas this Sardinian specialty from Gallura, the northeastern part of the island, is summery.
Bread soup is common throughout Italy, and there are many variations on the theme. Some are wintry, whereas this Sardinian specialty from Gallura, the northeastern part of the island, is summery.
Bread Soup Caglaritana Style - Zuppa di Pane alla Cagliaritana
In Tuscany zuppa di pane is a winter dish. In Sardinia it's tomato-based, and therefore summery. Around Cagliari they also add milk and yogurt to it, which will result in a richer, creamier dish.
In Tuscany zuppa di pane is a winter dish. In Sardinia it's tomato-based, and therefore summery. Around Cagliari they also add milk and yogurt to it, which will result in a richer, creamier dish.
Sardinian Stuffed Leg of Lamb - Coscia Prena
It's difficult to overstate the importance of shepherding in the Sardinian economy, even now that the island is a magnet for tourists who flock to the coastal towns -- inland it's just as dry and barren as it ever was, and the animals that thrive best are sheep. Hence Sardinia's renowned pecorino cheese (they make both pecorino sardo and the saltier pecorino romano), Sardinian wool (my father collected Sardinian rugs), and -- of course -- lamb. Here we have a leg, stuffed.
It's difficult to overstate the importance of shepherding in the Sardinian economy, even now that the island is a magnet for tourists who flock to the coastal towns -- inland it's just as dry and barren as it ever was, and the animals that thrive best are sheep. Hence Sardinia's renowned pecorino cheese (they make both pecorino sardo and the saltier pecorino romano), Sardinian wool (my father collected Sardinian rugs), and -- of course -- lamb. Here we have a leg, stuffed.
Lemony Tuna - Tonno al Limone
Lemon and fish are truly a marriage made in heaven, and this lemony fresh tuna recipe will quickly become a favorite. It's Sardinian.
Lemon and fish are truly a marriage made in heaven, and this lemony fresh tuna recipe will quickly become a favorite. It's Sardinian.
Saffron Ring Cake -- Ciambellone allo Zafferano
Saffron Ring Cake, or Ciambellone allo Zafferano: Ciambelle, ring cakes, are among the most common Italian cakes. This particular version, which is Sardinian, is richer than many.
Saffron Ring Cake, or Ciambellone allo Zafferano: Ciambelle, ring cakes, are among the most common Italian cakes. This particular version, which is Sardinian, is richer than many.
Polenta alla Sarda
A hearty, rustic Sardinian polenta dishe with cheese and tomato sauce; combined with a tossed salad it will be a perfect meal.
A hearty, rustic Sardinian polenta dishe with cheese and tomato sauce; combined with a tossed salad it will be a perfect meal.
Chickpea Minestrone -- Minestrone di Ceci
Chickpea Minestrone, or Minestrone di Ceci: Minestrone comes in all sorts of varieties. This one is Sardinian, and is made with chickpeas, though Alessandro Molina Pradelli says some prefer to use other kinds of legumes instead.
Chickpea Minestrone, or Minestrone di Ceci: Minestrone comes in all sorts of varieties. This one is Sardinian, and is made with chickpeas, though Alessandro Molina Pradelli says some prefer to use other kinds of legumes instead.
Fregula with Celery and Potatoes
A hearty, quasi-vegetarian soup.
A hearty, quasi-vegetarian soup.
Zipulas
Zipulas: Almost every Italian town and region has some specialty for Carnevale, the revels people hold to steel themselves for the privations of Lent (also known as Mardigras or Shrove Tuesday). This recipe is Sardinian, and though the ingredient list doesn't call for them, I've seen them with pastel-shaded confetti (candied almonds, not paper) pressed into them.
Zipulas: Almost every Italian town and region has some specialty for Carnevale, the revels people hold to steel themselves for the privations of Lent (also known as Mardigras or Shrove Tuesday). This recipe is Sardinian, and though the ingredient list doesn't call for them, I've seen them with pastel-shaded confetti (candied almonds, not paper) pressed into them.
Ghisau: A Sardinian Beef Stew
One of the most interesting dishes at the Salone del Gusto was Ghisau, a Sardinian beef stew that was made, for the occasion, from Sardo Modicana beef and Neapolitan San Marzano tomatoes (because the cook couldn't get Sardinian; San Marzano tomatoes are the original plum tomatoes, and are extraordinarily rich). The cook said she simmered the ghisau for several hours, and the results were impressive. To serve 6 you'll need:
One of the most interesting dishes at the Salone del Gusto was Ghisau, a Sardinian beef stew that was made, for the occasion, from Sardo Modicana beef and Neapolitan San Marzano tomatoes (because the cook couldn't get Sardinian; San Marzano tomatoes are the original plum tomatoes, and are extraordinarily rich). The cook said she simmered the ghisau for several hours, and the results were impressive. To serve 6 you'll need:
Overpowered Risotto -- Risotto Soffocato
Overpowered Risotto, or Risotto Soffocato: This is a Sardinian recipe, and to be frank I'm not sure why it's Soffocato -- perhaps because the rice is overcome by the meat and the tomatoes? If so, the result is certainly to our benefit.
Overpowered Risotto, or Risotto Soffocato: This is a Sardinian recipe, and to be frank I'm not sure why it's Soffocato -- perhaps because the rice is overcome by the meat and the tomatoes? If so, the result is certainly to our benefit.
Beans, Gallura Style -- Fagioli alla Gallurese
Beans, Gallura Style, or Fagioli alla Gallurese: This is from Sardegna. Wild fennel is much more aromatic than domestic fennel, and one generally uses the fronds rather than the bulb.
Beans, Gallura Style, or Fagioli alla Gallurese: This is from Sardegna. Wild fennel is much more aromatic than domestic fennel, and one generally uses the fronds rather than the bulb.
Chickpea and Fennel Soup -- Minestra di Ceci e Finocchi
Chickpea and Fennel Soup, or Minestra di Ceci e Finocchi: This is a Sardinian recipe, and calls for wild fennel. Though it's the progenitor of bulb fennel, with wild fennel the part one uses is the fronds. If you cannot find it, I would use the leafy parts of the fronds of bulb fennel (you may have to ask your grocer to set them aside for you), and perhaps add a tablespoon or so of fennel seeds.
Chickpea and Fennel Soup, or Minestra di Ceci e Finocchi: This is a Sardinian recipe, and calls for wild fennel. Though it's the progenitor of bulb fennel, with wild fennel the part one uses is the fronds. If you cannot find it, I would use the leafy parts of the fronds of bulb fennel (you may have to ask your grocer to set them aside for you), and perhaps add a tablespoon or so of fennel seeds.
Chickpea Soup with Saffron -- Minestra di Ceci con Zafferano
Chickpea Soup with Saffron, or Minestra di Ceci con Zafferano: This Sardinian soup is one of the more colorful soups I've come across.
Chickpea Soup with Saffron, or Minestra di Ceci con Zafferano: This Sardinian soup is one of the more colorful soups I've come across.
Fregula with Beans -- Fregula con i Fagioli
Pasta e fagioli -- pasta with bean soup -- is a universal Italian dish that you'll find in every region. In Sardinia the pasta of choice is fregula, tiny blebs that provide delightful body, working from behind the scenes to support the beans.
Pasta e fagioli -- pasta with bean soup -- is a universal Italian dish that you'll find in every region. In Sardinia the pasta of choice is fregula, tiny blebs that provide delightful body, working from behind the scenes to support the beans.
Chickpea Soup: Minestrone di Ceci
Minestrone is a thick vegetable soup. This variation, from Sardinia, uses chickpeas.
Minestrone is a thick vegetable soup. This variation, from Sardinia, uses chickpeas.
Spaghetti with Bottarga -- Spaghetti alla Bottarga
Spaghetti with Bottarga, or Spaghetti alla Bottarga: First of all, what is bottarga? Dried salted tuna roe, and, if it is of good quality, it's a great delicacy that many consider rather randy. Some of the best comes from Sardegna.
Spaghetti with Bottarga, or Spaghetti alla Bottarga: First of all, what is bottarga? Dried salted tuna roe, and, if it is of good quality, it's a great delicacy that many consider rather randy. Some of the best comes from Sardegna.
Another Fregula Recipe
Another Fregula Recipe, this time with a fish sauce: last year I posted a feature on fregula, a Sardinian fine-grained pasta that's in some ways reminiscent of cuscus.
Another Fregula Recipe, this time with a fish sauce: last year I posted a feature on fregula, a Sardinian fine-grained pasta that's in some ways reminiscent of cuscus.
Fregula with Clams -- Fregula con Cocciula
Fregula are pasta blebs, for want of a better term, and are one of the standard Sardinian pasta shapes. Here you will want fairly fine fregula (bits a 16th of an inch, or 2 mm in diameter). Another option, though not at all Sardinian, would be to use cuscus.
Fregula are pasta blebs, for want of a better term, and are one of the standard Sardinian pasta shapes. Here you will want fairly fine fregula (bits a 16th of an inch, or 2 mm in diameter). Another option, though not at all Sardinian, would be to use cuscus.
Ciciones -- Sardinian gnocchi, with a beef sauce
Ciciones: Sardinian gnocchi, with a beef sauce. One generally associates gnocchi with potatoes, but semolina is also an excellent base for them. Here they gain a pretty, brilliant yellow color from saffron. The recipe is Sardinian
Ciciones: Sardinian gnocchi, with a beef sauce. One generally associates gnocchi with potatoes, but semolina is also an excellent base for them. Here they gain a pretty, brilliant yellow color from saffron. The recipe is Sardinian
Fregula with Celery and Potatoes -- Fregula con Sedano e Patate
Every region of Italy has a pasta shape or two, and Fregula, tiny blebs of pasta, are Sardiniam. This recipe is a tasty, fulfilling porridge of sorts, a dish that will satisfy if serve warm and also help keep out the chill if served hot.
Every region of Italy has a pasta shape or two, and Fregula, tiny blebs of pasta, are Sardiniam. This recipe is a tasty, fulfilling porridge of sorts, a dish that will satisfy if serve warm and also help keep out the chill if served hot.
Cabbage Sardinian Style -- Cavolo Capuccio alla Sarda
Cabbage Sardinian Style, or Cavolo Capuccio alla Sarda: And what does all winter cold bring to mind? Cabbages, the classic winter vegetables. You'll find recipes featuring them scattered across the site, and here's another, from Sardinia.
Cabbage Sardinian Style, or Cavolo Capuccio alla Sarda: And what does all winter cold bring to mind? Cabbages, the classic winter vegetables. You'll find recipes featuring them scattered across the site, and here's another, from Sardinia.
Fregula in Broth -- Fregula in Brodo
This is perhaps the simplest way of preparing fregula, which is one of Sardinia's signature pasta shapes.
This is perhaps the simplest way of preparing fregula, which is one of Sardinia's signature pasta shapes.
Fregula with Tomato Sauce -- Fregula col Pomodoro
This will be nice in the summer, when you can buy sun-ripened tomatoes. In winter, I'd use canned plum tomatoes rather than the hothouse variety.
This will be nice in the summer, when you can buy sun-ripened tomatoes. In winter, I'd use canned plum tomatoes rather than the hothouse variety.
Fregula with Clams: Fregula con le Arselle
The Sardinian equivalent of clam chowder!
The Sardinian equivalent of clam chowder!
Lamb with Saffron -- Agnello allo Zafferano
Lamb with Saffron, or Agnello allo Zafferano: Easter dinner wouldn't seem quite right without lamb in Italy. Much is roasted, but some people like to stew it instead; this is a Sardinian recipe that gains grace from a little saffron. To serve 6:
Lamb with Saffron, or Agnello allo Zafferano: Easter dinner wouldn't seem quite right without lamb in Italy. Much is roasted, but some people like to stew it instead; this is a Sardinian recipe that gains grace from a little saffron. To serve 6:
Roast Kid or Goat -- Capretto o Agnello al Forno
Many years ago I had the good fortune to be in Sardegna for Easter. The highpoint of Easter dinner was a roast kid with herbs that the cook set near, not over a bed of coals at about 9 in the morning. Very slowly over the next three hours she moved it over but not that much closer to the coals, occasionally turning it; she explained that this slow-cooking would make it very tender. It certainly did.
Many years ago I had the good fortune to be in Sardegna for Easter. The highpoint of Easter dinner was a roast kid with herbs that the cook set near, not over a bed of coals at about 9 in the morning. Very slowly over the next three hours she moved it over but not that much closer to the coals, occasionally turning it; she explained that this slow-cooking would make it very tender. It certainly did.
Sardinian Grilled Sausage -- Salsicce allo Spiedo
Grilled Sausage, or Salsicce allo Spiedo: Grilling a sausage is something almost anyone who has done a barbecue will feel comfortable with. This Sardinian variation on the theme may harden the arteries, but is certainly worth enjoying every now and then. You'll need cured lard, as opposed to rendered lard. In its absence use pancetta, and serve it all with abundant toasted bread that will soak up the drippings and be a delight in and of itself.
Grilled Sausage, or Salsicce allo Spiedo: Grilling a sausage is something almost anyone who has done a barbecue will feel comfortable with. This Sardinian variation on the theme may harden the arteries, but is certainly worth enjoying every now and then. You'll need cured lard, as opposed to rendered lard. In its absence use pancetta, and serve it all with abundant toasted bread that will soak up the drippings and be a delight in and of itself.
Fregula in Tomato Sauce: Fregula al Pomodoro
A refreshing Sardinian type of pasta in tomato sauce.
A refreshing Sardinian type of pasta in tomato sauce.
Fregula in Tomato Sauce: Fregula al Pomodoro
A refreshing Sardinian type of pasta in tomato sauce.
A refreshing Sardinian type of pasta in tomato sauce.
Sardinian Ravioli with Greens -- Ravioli con Verdura
These ravioli are also known as Culingionis.
These ravioli are also known as Culingionis.
Zucchini Tomato Casserole -- Zucchini al Pomodoro
Zucchini Tomato Casserole, or Zucchini al Pomodoro: This recipe is Sardinian.
Zucchini Tomato Casserole, or Zucchini al Pomodoro: This recipe is Sardinian.