Mostarda di Carpi: There are many kinds of mostarda, northern Italy's glorious fruit relish. This is made with grape must, and an abundance of fruit.
Alas, there really isn't a substitute for must, so you have to live in wine country to make it.
- 4 1/2 pounds (2 k) grape must, filtered though a cloth bag
- 2 1/4 pounds (1 k) apples
- 1 1/2 pounds (750 g) pears
- 1 pound (450 g) quinces
- The zest of an orange, shredded
- The nutmeats from 2 walnuts, ground
Begin by setting the must in a deep pot with the ground nuts and simmer the mixture for at least 10 hours, skimming away the froth every now and then, especially at the beginning. When the must is almost done simmering, wash and peel the fruit, then slice it thinly. Then stir the fruit and the orange peel into the must, which will have thickened considerably by this point, and simmer everything for an hour more. Transfer the mostarda to clean sterile jars, seal them, and store them in a cool dark place. Serve the mostarda with boiled meats, cold cuts, cheeses, or roasts.