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Pearà - Veronese Pepper Sauce for Boiled Meats


Pearà, Veronese Pepper Sauce for Boiled Meats: You may be wondering, "What does one eat with an Amarone?" One classic reply is bollito misto, the boiled dinner that's common to all of Northern Italy; here's the Piemontese version, which was a favorite with Crown Price Vittorio Emanuele a century ago. What's done in the Veneto is similar, though the sauce of choice is a peppery exotic called pearà, which is made with crumbled bread, bone marrow and ground pepper (hence the name).


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Dino Coltri says, in La Cucina Tradizionale Veneta, to take a pot, ideally terracotta, and melt equal volumes of unsalted butter and very fresh bone marrow. Then add very finely ground bread crumbs, and stir well with a wooden spoon while they absorb the grease. Once they have (you'll have to go by eye on the exact amounts involved) stir in some broth, ideally made with meat, as opposed to poultry. Simmer over a very low flame for at least a couple of hours, stirring it every now then and adding more liquid if it starts to dry out. Then salt it and season it with a goodly grinding of black pepper -- not so much as to make it eye-watering, but enough to give it considerable zing. The finished sauce should have the consistency of a thick mustard of the kind that has whole mustard seeds in it.

Antonio Piccinardi says, in Il Dizionario della Gastronomia Italiana, that the bread crumbs should be toasted, and that the dish is quite old, as combining bread crumbs with fat is the precursor to working butter and flour together to make beurre manié.

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