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Puddings, creams and so on

Puddings are a mainstay of Italian meals, and Tiramisu is just the tip of the iceburg.
Strawberry Pudding - Budino di Fragole
Come spring, Italian markets fill with strawberries. While one can simply hull them and enjoy them, one can also do other things with strawberries, and this strawberry pudding is very tasty and very easy.
Leonardo's Tiramisu
A good tiramisu is an extraordinarily lascivious dessert that is perfect for almost every situation, from the family get-together through the romantic occasion. However, most Italian recipes for Tiramisu call for raw egg, which is potentially dangerous. Leonardo Romanelli gets around this by making his tiramisu with zabaione, a delicate creamy custard made from egg yolks. Considerable enjoyment and no risk!
Leonardo's Tiramisu
A good tiramisu is an extraordinarily lascivious dessert that is perfect for almost every situation, from the family get-together through the romantic occasion. However, most Italian recipes for Tiramisu call for raw egg, which is potentially dangerous. Leonardo Romanelli gets around this by making his tiramisu with zabaione, a delicate creamy custard made from egg yolks. Considerable enjoyment and no risk!
Panettone Bavarian Cream - Bavarese di Panettone
Panettone is Milano's traditional Christmas cake, and very fine eating it is, too. It's also quite versatile, lending itself very well to being stuffed or reworked. For example, if you have leftover panettone (a distinct probability in Italy, where people often bring panettoni when they go visiting during the holidays) you could make this Bavarian cream, which is elegant enough for either Santo Stefano (the day after Christmas, or New Year's Eve.
Zuppa del Duca, The Duke's Pudding
There are a number of stories about the origins of tiramisu. One holds that it was invented by Sienese pastry chefs in the late 1600s to honor Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici, who was known for his sweet tooth. They initially called it Zuppa del Duca, or Duke's Pudding. It was a terrific success, especially among courtesans, who found it both stimulating and aphrodisiac, and thus enjoyed it before trysts; with time they took to calling it tiramisu, or pick me up.
The Origins of Tiramisu
Some say Tiramisu was invented in Siena, in the late 1600s, to satisfy Grand Duke Cosimo's sweet tooth, and that it subsequently became a hit with the courtesans. Others say it was invented much later by a restaurant next door to a House of Ill Repute in Treviso, and became popular in the 70s. Who's right?
Tiramisu: A No-Egg No-Cheese Variation
I occasionally get notes from people worried about the raw eggs in tiramisu and the health risk they pose. One option that also neatly sidesteps the risks posed by Mascarpone, which should never be allowed to warm, is to use yogurt:
Savoy Chocolate - Cioccolata di Savoia
The House of Savoy ruled Piemonte before they became Kings of Italy, and considering the Torinese love of chocolate, it's natural that this sumptuous creamy dessert be named after them.
Transforming Pandoro: Christmas Tiramisú
Pandoro, a rich buttery Christmas cake from Verona, is my personal favorite among the commercially baked cakes that fill Italian supermarkets at this time of year. Friends know this by now, so when they come calling during the holidays they bring one, and we therefore have quite a few. Fortunately, they are easy to rework, becoming delightful surprises for Santo Stefano (December 26th, which is also a holiday in Italy) or New Year's Eve. For example, pandoro is perfect for making tiramisu.
Bonèt
Bonèt, also known as Bounet, is a very traditional Piemontese pudding made with amaretti and cocoa, and it's one of the standard family desserts during the cooler months, when rich foods add comfort to the table.
Zuppa Inglese alla Napoletana -- Neapolitan English Trifle
Zuppa Inglese alla Napoletana, or Neapolitan English Trifle: There are many variations on English trifle in Italy. This one is Neapolitan, and calls for pan di Spagna rather than Savoiardi, and for ricotta instead of pastry cream. Different, but just as tasty.
Zuppa Inglese -- English Trifle
This really is a trifle, in the sense of layers of cake and cream, and though it is most Italian it is called English because it was a favorite of English expats.
Creamy Rice with Forest Berry Fruit -- Riso e Latte con Frutti di Bosco
Creamy Rice with Forest Berry Fruit, Riso e Latte con Frutti di Bosco: In the past this would have been strictly seasonal, though now through the miracle of freezing we can enjoy it year round. As desserts go it is quite healthy, about 215 calories per serving.
Panettone Sformato -- Sformato di Panettone
Panettone Sformato, or Sformato di Panettone: You may well find yourself with leftover panettone during the holiday season; this is a quick and tasty way of putting it to use that will also be nice when company comes calling.
Milanese Charlotte -- Charlotte alla Milanese
Milanese Charlotte, or Charlotte alla Milanese: Charlottes fall into the category of dolci semifreddi, in other words chilled desserts. They are also generally much more elaborate than this Milanese version, generally calling for pan di spagna dipped in liqueur, whipped cream, candied fruit, and all sorts of other things. In short, they're desserts for when company is expected. So is this Milanese version, though not so much for the ingredients as for the presentation.
Apple Pudding -- Budino Di Mele
Apple Pudding, or Budino Di Mele: A pleasant fall dessert from the Marche.
Tremarello
Tremarello: This simple dessert was very common in the monasteries and convents around Jesi, in the Marche, and was prepared whenever there was occasion to celebrate, especially in occasion of the marriage of the daughter of a farmer who worked with the monastery.
Black Easter Rice -- Riso Nero di Pasqua
Black Easter Rice, or Riso Nero di Pasqua: This is a Sicilian Easter recipe; unlike most black risotti, this owes it color to chocolate rather than squid ink, and is therefore a dessert. Ms. Di Leo says it was traditionally prepared by those living in the province of Messina as a votive offering for the Madonna Nera di Tindari.
Mini Chocolate Charlottes -- Mini-Charlotte al Cioccolato
Mini Chocolate Charlottes, or Mini-Charlotte al Cioccolato: Looking for something quick and sweet for Valentine's Day? Here's a suggestion for two couples:
Mascarpone Cream with Raspberries -- Crema di Mascarpone ai Lamponi
Mascarpone Cream with Raspberries, or Crema di Mascarpone ai Lamponi: Looking for something quick and sweet for Valentine's Day? Here's a tasty, rather racy suggestion to serve 2.
Panettone English Trifle -- Zuppa Inglese di Panettone
Panettone English Trifle, or Zuppa Inglese di Panettone: Panettone is Milano's traditional Christmas bread, an airy concoction made with raisins and candied fruit that every pastry shop proudly displays. They're also made by industry, in huge numbers, and consequently appear on almost every Christmas table throughout the peninsula. They're very nice just sliced, but one can do other things with them. For example, stuff them, or transform them into trifle.
Sformato di Panettone
Sformato di Panettone: Panettone is Milano's traditional Christmas bread, an airy concoction made with raisins and candied fruit that every pastry shop proudly displays. They're also made by industry, in huge numbers, and consequently appear on almost every Christmas table throughout the peninsula. They're very nice just sliced, but one can do other things with them. For example, stuff them, or transform them into sformato.
Strawberry Sformato -- Sformato di Fragole
Strawberry Sformato, or Sformato di Fragole: Wild strawberries are delightful, and work very well in this summery dessert.
Bread and Apple Sformato -- Sformato di Mele e Pane
Bread and Apple Sformato, or Sformato di Mele e Pane: My grandmother used to make an apple pie with a mixture of apples and saltines -- Depression Cuisine -- and though she never made it for me, all those who remembered it said it was very good. This is an Italian bread-and-apple delight, which will be nice served with Zabaione. Also, it will be delicate if you use white bread, or rustic if you go with a richer whole wheat or mixed grain bread.
Sformato Made with Amaretti, and Smothered with Zabaione
Sformato Made with Amaretti, and Smothered with Zabaione: A tasty dessert from The Art of Eating Well, my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza In Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene.
Sergio's Newfangled Spiced Pumpkin Tiramisu
Sergio's Newfangled Spiced Pumpkin Tiramisu: Though the classic Tiramisu is made with mascarpone or cream cheese and flavored with coffee, chocolate, and (perhaps) liqueur, there are many other options, including pumpkin.
Sergio's Classic Tiramisu
Sergio's Classic Tiramisu: Just what it sounds like
Fig Bavarian Cream -- Bavarese ai Fichi
Fig Bavarian Cream, or Bavarese ai Fichi: You might not think of figs in a Bavarian Cream, but they can work quite nicely, especially with a little cinnamon.
Spicy Bavarian Cream -- Bavarese alle Spezie
Spicy Bavarian Cream, or Bavarese alle Spezie: The spices involved here are ginger and such; in other words the classic pastry spices. The recipe will take a couple of hours to prepare, but will be quite nice for an important occasion.
Mandarin Orange Bavarian Cream -- Bavarese al Mandarancio
Mandarin Orange Bavarian Cream, or Bavarese al Mandarancio: Some bavaresi are summery, but this is instead a wintry concoction, and elegant enough for a formal occasion too. Or, if you wanted a radical change of pace at a holiday meal...
Fruity Bavarian Cream -- Bavarese alla Frutta
Fruity Bavarian Cream, or Bavarese alla Frutta: This is a basic fruit Bavarese that can be made with a number of different kinds of fruit, for example peaches, strawberries, blueberries, cherries, persimmons, peaches, or apricots, either singly or in the combination that you prefer.
Harlequin Bavarian Cream -- Bavarese Arlecchino
Harlequin Bavarian Cream, or Bavarese Arlecchino: Harlequin meaning a court jester dressed in colorful clothes, not a rogue, and it's singularly apt here because this bavarese is extraordinarily colorful. The recipe will take about an hour to prepare, and several more to chill.
Montebianco
Montebianco, Europe's highest peak, has lent its name to this dessert, which seems to have been invented by a French pastry chef. No matter; it's quite popular in the Val d'Aosta too, and has spread throughout the land as a winter dessert, both because it's tasty and because it lends itself to innumerable flights of artistic fancy.
Blancmanger
Blancmanger: You might think this is French from the name, but what they speak in Aosta closely resembles French. The dish is quite similar to the Piemontese panna cotta, but contains almonds. To serve 4:
Hazelnut Pudding -- A Dessert to Die For
Hazelnut Pudding -- A Dessert to Die For: Those of you who have been subscribed to Cosa Bolle for a while will recall that La Cucina Italiana celebrated its 70th birthday last year by reprinting the first issue (in tabloid rather than magazine format). At the time I commented upon the articles. There are recipes too, but I didn't get to them. Here's a suggestion for day-to-day fare. To be honest, I would find this rich. But just a little would be nice...
Peach Charlotte -- Charlotte di Pesche
Peach Charlotte, or Charlotte di Pesche: Simple, tasty, and the zabaione is the perfect finishing touch!
Zabaione
Zabaione is one of the classic, simple desserts that one finds in many places; the French know it as sabayon, or so I surmised when the copy editor who was going over my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e l'Arte di Mangiar Bene Frenchified it throughout. It's very nice served in small cups, and is also excellent for dipping cakes or cookies; Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa suggests it be served with Dicitinobis, at the Vigil of Kippur.
Bruscandole
This is a simple Piemontese sweet that Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa suggests be used to break the fast at the close of Kippur. It could also work nicely as a very rustic dessert.
Zabaione
Zabaione is a delicate, liquid custard made from eggs and Marsala; it can be served as is, in little cups, or served with cookies and such, as a dip, or served over other desserts. In short, tasty and versatile!
Cantaloupe Mousse -- Mousse di Melone
One of the State operated newscasts has taken to transmitting recipe demonstrations at lunchtime. One day this summer one of the dishes was singularly appropriate: Cantaloupe Mousse.
Apricot Custard -- Albicocche nelle Chicchere
Albicocche nelle Chicchere, or Apricot Custard: Chicchere are bowls, and this is a custard from the Brianza region, not far from Milano.
Strawberry Gelatin -- Gelatina di Fragole
This recipe for Strawberry Gelatin was first (that I know of) published by Artusi more than a century ago, and has been reworked or borrowed by a great many other cookbook authors since then. Including me.
Scodelline
The word Scodelline means little bowls, and is quite apt for this delicate, very traditional Italian Passover dessert from Venice.
Ciarlotta with Apples
Some ciarlotte are creamy puddings that gain substance from cake or fruit (or both), but there are many variations on the theme. In this case there are stewed apples and no cream; Artusi says that if it's made with care it will be quite elegant, and perfect for company.
A Lemony Ciarlotta
A Ciarlotta is a pudding, made largely of pastry cream that gains substance and body from either ladyfingers or pan di spagna, and fruit or jam. This, from Artusi, also has a pleasant lemony cast.
Blanche Manger -- Bianco Mangiare
Blanche Manger: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and is a bit unusual in that, in addition to almonds, he includes orange blossom water to give it a delicate orange flavor.
Zuppa Tartara -- Tartar Trifle
Zuppa Tartara: The name, which translates as Tartar Soup, is a misnomer. What we have is a trifle (cake interlayerd with pastry cream and other ingredients, drawn from This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene. As Artusi notes, if you make it with care you will surprise and delight your guests.
Chocolate and Bread Pudding -- Budino di Pane e Cioccolata
Chocolate and Bread Pudding: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and was omitted from my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House) for lack of space. He observes, "This is a pudding for a family meal; therefore, don't expect too much." But like most of his recipes it's good.
Chocolate Pudding -- Budino di Cioccolata
Chocolate Pudding: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and is based on that in my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House). The ground savoiardi give it a slightly granular texture that's quite pleasing.
Ricotta Pudding -- Budino di Ricotta
Ricotta Pudding: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and is based on that in my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House). It's a simple pudding ideally suited to the end of a family meal.
Rice Pudding -- Budino di Riso
Rice Pudding: This is one of the most classic North Italian family type desserts -- quick, easy to make, and tasty too. It's also an excellent use for milk if you discover the carton sitting in the refrigerator has reached the "best before" date but isn't off.
Semolina and Jam Pudding -- Budino Di Semolina e Conserve
Semolina and Jam Pudding: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and was omitted from my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House) for lack of space. If you select your jams with care it will be a delightful surprise to your guests.
Semolina Pudding -- Budino di Semolino
Budino di Semolino: This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and was omitted from my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House) for lack of space. It's quite simple and well suited for a family meal.
Hazelnut Pudding -- Budino Di Nocciuole
This recipe is drawn from Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene, and was omitted from my English translation of the book (The Art of Eating Well, Random House) for lack of space. It makes me think of the region around Alba, in Piemonte, which is famed for its stands of hazelnut trees.
Zuccotto
Baking pastries at home is a lot more common than making bread in Italy, though most people stop at a pastry shop if they're invited to dinner. Unless they decide to bring something creamy, and this brings up Jill Heinrich's recent request for a zuccotto recipe. They're popular because they have the right amount of alcohol and combine cake and ice cream, and also they can be made ahead and frozen; if you do so give them time to warm up before serving, as they should be firm but not hard.
Chestnuts with Cream -- Dolce Di Marroni Con Panna Montata
Chestnuts with Cream might sound simple, but it's surprisingly libidinous, and very nice on a cold winter evening, especially with that special someone.
Panna Cotta
And while we're on the subject of puddings, here's a recipe for Panna Cotta, a traditional Piemontese specialty. It's translated from Ricette di Osterie di Langa, a book put out by the people at Slow Food, Italy's most influential gastronomic organization (they got it from the Circolo Agricola Boccondivino in Bra):
Tiramisu
From Cosa Bolle In Pentola, the newsletter: Winding down, a couple of people have recently asked me for which is my favorite among the dozens of Tiramisu recipes out there. Put simply, wife Elisabetta's.
Crema Pasticcera
Crema pasticcera, pastry cream, is one of the basic ingredients used in Italian pastries and cakes: it's the creamy custardy filling of the layer cake, or the cream you find in your morning pastry, or the creamy base of your pudding. In short, Italian desserts wouldn't be quite the same without it.
Amarena Cherry and Blackcurrant Jam -- Confettura di Amarene e Ribes Rosso
Amarene are, as their name implies, slightly sour cherries (amaro means sour), and they work especially well in jams. This will also work nicely with regular cherries, however.
Tiramisù with Cherries and Red Wine -- Tiramisù Con Ciliegie e Vino Rosso
Tiramisù is a simple concept, and though it's usually made with coffee and chocolate, it's just as tasty with cherries.
Budini
That's puddings: Cool in summer, and ideal when you're going to be needing the oven for other things.
Bavaresi
You might not think Bavarian creams particularly Italian, but they are popular, and extremely varied. Some are even savory side dishes. Also, some observations on gelatin.
Conserve
Fruit preserves and jams carry summer over into winter, and also play an extremely important part in puddings.
Sformati
They're similar to souffles, though not quite as airy, and are amazingly versatile, ranging from hearty comfort food to light vegetarian delights to tasty desserts.
Tiramisu!
A collection of more than 20 (!) recipes that Desiree McCrorey has kindly offered to share with us.
Buttered Chestnuts: Castagne al Burro
A simple Piemontese winter dessert, sugary boiled chestnuts with butter.
Christmas Dessert: Il Pieno Natale
A chestnutty apple desert offered by the nuns of a Benedictine convent to their Christmas guests.
Gnocchi in Milk: Gnocchi al Latte
A simple winter dessert.
Mother's Buiscuits: Biscotti Puerperali
The perfect thing, according to Artusi, for a new mother to enjoy (with the help of a spoon).
Peach Charlotte: Charlotte di Pesche
A refreshingly chilled peach Charlotte
Rum Souffle'
An elegant way to delight your guests.
Bavarese ai Frutti di Bosco con Salsa Balsamica
Forest Berry Fruit Bavarian Cream with a balsamic vinegar sauce. Looks nice, though they don't say how much gelatin to use.
Barbara Mama's steamed persimmon pudding
"A long forgotten dessert, partly because the old-fashioned method of steaming breads and puddings has all but disappeared. But so delicious, you owe it to yourself to try it once."
Cassis Bavarois
Black currant Bavarian Cream
Chocolate Bavarian Cream Pie
A libidinous looking recipe from Grandma's Cookbook, a Texan site.
Lemon Bavarian Cream
A romantic recipe for 2 from Barbara Kafka.
White Chocolate Bavarian Cream
A libidinous, not-too-sweet version from Stephanie Zonis. Extremely detailed.
Italian Butter Cream
A tremendously rich dessert from Pastrychef.com, made primarily with butter & meringue.
Kit's Chocolate Mousse
A simple, tasty recipe, which contains a bit of liqueur.
Mousse al Cioccolato
An extremely simple recipe for chocolate mousse.
Pudding & Spoon Dessert Recipes
On this site, from your About Guide.
Spumone Ice Cream
Never had this, but it does look nice.
Crema Chantilly
Chantilly is whipped cream with some powdered sugar and vanilla added, and is nice. If you fold it into pastry cream, however, you end up with a voluptuous treat Italians call Crema Chantilly, which is perfect for layer cakes, pastries, and more.
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