Cooking, wines and more of Le Marche
Le Marche, the Marches in English, is a land of coastal fishing towns along the Adriatic and rugged pastureland inland; the cooking reflects this, with fascinating combinations of land and sea.
La Cucina Marchigiana
Le Marche, or The Marches, on the Adriatic side of Italy, has a rich, veried cuisine that grows out of frugality and the need to draw the best from what little there was. In short, rustic, tasty recipes from one of Italy's less well-known regions.
Le Marche, or The Marches, on the Adriatic side of Italy, has a rich, veried cuisine that grows out of frugality and the need to draw the best from what little there was. In short, rustic, tasty recipes from one of Italy's less well-known regions.
Cucina Marchigiana
Rustic, tasty recipes from one of the less well-known regions.
Rustic, tasty recipes from one of the less well-known regions.
On the Diet of the Marches
Nicely written, from the Marche Voyager.
Nicely written, from the Marche Voyager.
Stuffed Olives Ascolana Style -- Olive all'Ascolana
Stuffed Olives Ascolana Style, or Olive all'Ascolana: The recipe derives from the Ascoli region, and if at all possible you should use olives of the Ascolana strain, which are large, green and mild, and were already renowned in Roman times, when they were eagerly sought out. This recipe is however more recent, dating to the 17th century. Though they're generally classified as an antipasto, it will also work well as a first course, or as part of a platter of mixed fried foods.
Stuffed Olives Ascolana Style, or Olive all'Ascolana: The recipe derives from the Ascoli region, and if at all possible you should use olives of the Ascolana strain, which are large, green and mild, and were already renowned in Roman times, when they were eagerly sought out. This recipe is however more recent, dating to the 17th century. Though they're generally classified as an antipasto, it will also work well as a first course, or as part of a platter of mixed fried foods.
Cheesy Easter Pie: Torta di Pasqua al Formaggio
This is actually a rich, cheesy bread, rather than a pie, and a delight with salami and a good zesty red wine.
This is actually a rich, cheesy bread, rather than a pie, and a delight with salami and a good zesty red wine.
Mackerel with Wild Fennel -- Sgombri al Finocchio Selvatico
The Marche is a coastal region and it should come as no surprise that fish plays an important part of the diet along the coast (since fresh fish doesn't travel well, inland people ate baccalà or snails on days when meats were prohibited). Much of what the fishermen ate were small fish, salted, because they sold the more prestigious elements of their daily catch. Someone who was a little better off might have enjoyed this mackerel, with wild fennel from the mountains inland. To serve 4:
The Marche is a coastal region and it should come as no surprise that fish plays an important part of the diet along the coast (since fresh fish doesn't travel well, inland people ate baccalà or snails on days when meats were prohibited). Much of what the fishermen ate were small fish, salted, because they sold the more prestigious elements of their daily catch. Someone who was a little better off might have enjoyed this mackerel, with wild fennel from the mountains inland. To serve 4:
Vincisgrassi
This is one of the Marche region's signature dishes, a rich pasta sauce that is mentioned in Antonio Nebbia's Il Cuoco Maceratese, though he calls it princisgras. He was writing in 1784, before the widespread acceptance of tomatoes, and indeed omits them, calling for truffles and prosciutto instead. More modern recipes do call for tomatoes, and also include chicken giblets, which give the dish its characteristic flavor.
This is one of the Marche region's signature dishes, a rich pasta sauce that is mentioned in Antonio Nebbia's Il Cuoco Maceratese, though he calls it princisgras. He was writing in 1784, before the widespread acceptance of tomatoes, and indeed omits them, calling for truffles and prosciutto instead. More modern recipes do call for tomatoes, and also include chicken giblets, which give the dish its characteristic flavor.
Polentone con Lumache
Snails and polenta, rustic fare for a Friday meal up in the mountains where there wasn't any fish. And instructions on preparing snails.
Snails and polenta, rustic fare for a Friday meal up in the mountains where there wasn't any fish. And instructions on preparing snails.
Chiacchere
Chiacchere are one of the classic Carnival pastries that people enjoy before the privations of Lent. As is often the case when dishes are popular there are many versions of Chiacchere; this is from the Marche, and was presented at La Prova del Cuoco, a popular mid-day cooking show.
Chiacchere are one of the classic Carnival pastries that people enjoy before the privations of Lent. As is often the case when dishes are popular there are many versions of Chiacchere; this is from the Marche, and was presented at La Prova del Cuoco, a popular mid-day cooking show.
Baccalà in Spicy Sauce -- Baccalà in Salsa Piccante
In the past baccalà, salt cod, played an extremely significant role in rural diets, because it was one of the few kinds of fish available for Friday and the other days that the Church decreed meatless. We're fortunate that in addition to traveling and keeping well it's tasty; though it's a little firmer and saltier than fresh cod it's still quite mild and very versatile, the perfect foil for all sorts of sauces. This recipe is from the Marche region. To serve 6 you'll need:
In the past baccalà, salt cod, played an extremely significant role in rural diets, because it was one of the few kinds of fish available for Friday and the other days that the Church decreed meatless. We're fortunate that in addition to traveling and keeping well it's tasty; though it's a little firmer and saltier than fresh cod it's still quite mild and very versatile, the perfect foil for all sorts of sauces. This recipe is from the Marche region. To serve 6 you'll need:
Brasato Marchigiano
This recipe is from the Marches; it's a braised beef dish from a recently republished 17th century manuscript compiled by one of the first master chefs to admit women into the kitchens as chefs. The recipe, we were told in the course of a demonstration on TV, is braised because at the time few people had ovens. To make it you will need:
This recipe is from the Marches; it's a braised beef dish from a recently republished 17th century manuscript compiled by one of the first master chefs to admit women into the kitchens as chefs. The recipe, we were told in the course of a demonstration on TV, is braised because at the time few people had ovens. To make it you will need:
Fregnacce
Zesty pasta squares with a grated pepper and cheese.
Zesty pasta squares with a grated pepper and cheese.
Miller's Beans -- Fagioli alla Mugnaia
Miller's Beans, or Fagioli alla Mugnaia: One usually encounters sogliola alla mugnaia (sole on a plate, which also goes by a French name), but milers eat other things as well. This refreshing summer salad is from the Marche. The recipe will serve 4-6 handily, and will also be nice the next day.
Miller's Beans, or Fagioli alla Mugnaia: One usually encounters sogliola alla mugnaia (sole on a plate, which also goes by a French name), but milers eat other things as well. This refreshing summer salad is from the Marche. The recipe will serve 4-6 handily, and will also be nice the next day.
Pasta & Chick Pea Soup -- Pasta e Ceci
One normally thinks of pasta with beans -- pasta e fagioli or pasta fagiul -- and almost every Italian town has a recipe. One doesn't hear about pasta e ceci anywhere near as often, though the combination will work just as well. This recipe is from the Marche, where it was tradition to make a batch on the day the fields were sown with grain, in the hopes that the harvest would bring wheat the size of the chick peas.-- Pasta e Ceci
One normally thinks of pasta with beans -- pasta e fagioli or pasta fagiul -- and almost every Italian town has a recipe. One doesn't hear about pasta e ceci anywhere near as often, though the combination will work just as well. This recipe is from the Marche, where it was tradition to make a batch on the day the fields were sown with grain, in the hopes that the harvest would bring wheat the size of the chick peas.-- Pasta e Ceci
Ziti with Sardines -- Ziti con le Sarde
Ziti with Sardines, or Ziti con le Sarde: This recipe is from the Marche, and is one of the few the fishermen used to eat: The fishermen who went out to get the catch ate little fresh fish, but rather subsisted on dried octopus and cod, and salted anchovies and sardines. In other words, they sold the choicer elements of their catch, and preserved whatever remained for days when it was too rough to leave port.
Ziti with Sardines, or Ziti con le Sarde: This recipe is from the Marche, and is one of the few the fishermen used to eat: The fishermen who went out to get the catch ate little fresh fish, but rather subsisted on dried octopus and cod, and salted anchovies and sardines. In other words, they sold the choicer elements of their catch, and preserved whatever remained for days when it was too rough to leave port.
Apple Pudding -- Budino Di Mele
Apple Pudding, or Budino Di Mele: A pleasant fall dessert from the Marche.
Apple Pudding, or Budino Di Mele: A pleasant fall dessert from the Marche.
Tremarello
Tremarello: This simple dessert was very common in the monasteries and convents around Jesi, in the Marche, and was prepared whenever there was occasion to celebrate, especially in occasion of the marriage of the daughter of a farmer who worked with the monastery.
Tremarello: This simple dessert was very common in the monasteries and convents around Jesi, in the Marche, and was prepared whenever there was occasion to celebrate, especially in occasion of the marriage of the daughter of a farmer who worked with the monastery.
Guinea Hen in a Pyramid: Faraona in Piramide
An extraordinary presentation for Rossini's Mosè.
An extraordinary presentation for Rossini's Mosè.
Tagliatelle with Chicken Gibblet Sauce -- Tagliatelle con Sugo di Rigaglie di Pollo
The sauce here is similar to that used in Vincisgrassi, though the end result is less elaborate. And, by modern standards, a little lighter on the arteries. The cooks of the Marche region traditionally divide pasta sauces into three categories: minced sauces, fake sauces, and festive sauces. Minced sauces are based on sautéed lard, seasoned with herbs and greens. Fake sauces are for daily uses, and contain no meat. Festive sauces, on the other hand, do contain meat.
The sauce here is similar to that used in Vincisgrassi, though the end result is less elaborate. And, by modern standards, a little lighter on the arteries. The cooks of the Marche region traditionally divide pasta sauces into three categories: minced sauces, fake sauces, and festive sauces. Minced sauces are based on sautéed lard, seasoned with herbs and greens. Fake sauces are for daily uses, and contain no meat. Festive sauces, on the other hand, do contain meat.
Vegetable Acquacotta: Acquacotta di Verdure
Acquacotta means cooked water, and in this case it's not far off. A very simple dish from the Marche that gains its flavor from a deft use of greens and herbs.
Acquacotta means cooked water, and in this case it's not far off. A very simple dish from the Marche that gains its flavor from a deft use of greens and herbs.
Lamb with Artichokes -- Agnello coi Carciofi
Lamb with Artichokes, or Agnello coi Carciofi: This recipe is from the Marche; Leonardo Bruni notes that artichokes were once typical of Jewish cooking but were adopted by gentiles as well, and now the region has huge fields of artichokes to meet local demand.
Lamb with Artichokes, or Agnello coi Carciofi: This recipe is from the Marche; Leonardo Bruni notes that artichokes were once typical of Jewish cooking but were adopted by gentiles as well, and now the region has huge fields of artichokes to meet local demand.
Grilled Lamb Chops -- Agnello Scottadito
Grilled Lamb Chops, or Agnello Scottadito: The territory inland in the Marche is quite rugged, and as a result farming the land was difficult and in many areas extremely so. Consequently, people turned to shepherding, and it played a major role in the inland economy until well into this century. With large flocks of sheep grazing the land, lamb was a plentiful and commonly used meat, and even though the flocks are no longer as plentiful as they were, lamb is still popular in the region.
Grilled Lamb Chops, or Agnello Scottadito: The territory inland in the Marche is quite rugged, and as a result farming the land was difficult and in many areas extremely so. Consequently, people turned to shepherding, and it played a major role in the inland economy until well into this century. With large flocks of sheep grazing the land, lamb was a plentiful and commonly used meat, and even though the flocks are no longer as plentiful as they were, lamb is still popular in the region.
Ravioli Pesaresi
Ravioli Pesaresi: Tasty spinach-and-ricotta ravioli that gain grace from lemon zest and herbs.
Ravioli Pesaresi: Tasty spinach-and-ricotta ravioli that gain grace from lemon zest and herbs.
Ravioli Pesaresi
Ravioli Pesaresi: Tasty spinach-and-ricotta ravioli that gain grace from lemon zest and herbs.
Ravioli Pesaresi: Tasty spinach-and-ricotta ravioli that gain grace from lemon zest and herbs.
Fregnacce
Fregnacce: This extraordinarily simple pasta dish from the Marche has a punch. Quite a bit of a punch, and some serve it with a little bit of broth for those unused to sharp flavors or spicy foods. It's now considered poor mountain cuisine, but I wonder how poor it was in the past when pepper was expensive. What it was, and is, is stimulating, a zesty dish that will perk up the digestion, and if eaten under the proper circumstances, much more.
Fregnacce: This extraordinarily simple pasta dish from the Marche has a punch. Quite a bit of a punch, and some serve it with a little bit of broth for those unused to sharp flavors or spicy foods. It's now considered poor mountain cuisine, but I wonder how poor it was in the past when pepper was expensive. What it was, and is, is stimulating, a zesty dish that will perk up the digestion, and if eaten under the proper circumstances, much more.
Eggplant Packed in Oil -- Melanzane Sott'Olio
Eggplant Packed in Oil, or Melanzane Sott'Olio: This is a Jewish recipe from Ancona; Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa that it will work well for Kippur.
Eggplant Packed in Oil, or Melanzane Sott'Olio: This is a Jewish recipe from Ancona; Giuliana Ascoli Vitali-Norsa that it will work well for Kippur.
Acetello -- Vinaigrette
Acetello, or Vinaigrette: This is a truly ancient drink; the Romans called it posca, and considered it to be the symbol of poverty. And it was something the poor could easily afford, but it is also thirst quenching, especially in hot weather.
Acetello, or Vinaigrette: This is a truly ancient drink; the Romans called it posca, and considered it to be the symbol of poverty. And it was something the poor could easily afford, but it is also thirst quenching, especially in hot weather.
Pignoccate, Pine Nut Crunch for Purim
Pignoccate is pine nut crunch, and are one of the traditional sweets Italian Jews who live in the Anconetano prepare for Purim.
Pignoccate is pine nut crunch, and are one of the traditional sweets Italian Jews who live in the Anconetano prepare for Purim.