The Frittata

Of late I've read a number of articles extolling the virtues of "peasant cuisine," which seems to be in vogue throughout the world for its supposed healthiness and nutritious qualities. Perhaps peasant food is healthy, since it doesn't feature much in the way of meats or fats. But is it as nutritious as the romanticized descriptions of hearty fare suggest? That depends; until well into this century many peasants considered themselves lucky if they didn't starve. Nor was this state of affairs limited to places we now consider third world. In Italy the poverty in many areas, both urban and rural, was so bad it was simply known as miseria -- misery.

Dino Coltro recalls the peasant fare he grew up with in the Veneto region, in La Cucina Tradizionale Veneta:

"For breakfast we had polenta, then held on from noon until one or even two in the afternoon and had more polenta, and polenta again in the evening, or perhaps bigoloto (a kind of pasta), sometimes with some greens braised in vinegar or sautéed in a drop of oil. This except Thursday, when my mother would go down to Brenna to buy rice from the miller and make soup with a few beans or some greens, and then we'd feel as if we were putting on weight with every spoonful. But this only happened on Thursdays, and there was no bread, because we only had it once or twice during the harvest, when we'd go out into the fields, women and children combing the furrows like mice to gather stray grains of wheat, grind them, and make loaves to satisfy a hunger as old as time.

"For the rest of the year we'd mention the bread of Our Father in the Sunday prayers we'd say with those Christians who did enjoy their daily bread, and on other days make the sign of the cross on our breasts through our shirts and make do..."

There's nothing romantic, or particularly healthy, about a diet like this.

One food some people living out in the country would have had access to was eggs, especially during the spring laying season. One of the best ways to stretch an egg is a frittata, a close relative of the omelet in which the eggs are lightly beaten, poured into the pan with some sort of filler, and cooked until one side is done and the other is firm. The frittata is then flipped with the aid of a pot lid, and cooked until the other side is done too. Quick, easy, and very tasty.

Frittate can be eaten either hot or cold. Cut into thin wedges they make excellent appetizers. They are also great picnic foods, and are perfect for light meals, say with a tossed salad.

Making a Frittata: The General Procedure

1: Prepare the filler, usually by sautéing it, and have it ready in the skillet.

2: Lightly beat the eggs (figure one-and-a-half to two eggs per person, depending upon the rest of the meal) to incorporate some air into them, which will make for a fluffier frittata. Pour the eggs into the skillet, give the skillet a brisk shake to distribute them evenly though the filler, and let the frittata cook, without stirring, till the top begins to firm up.

3: Cover the skillet with a lid that doesn't have a lip and flip it upside-down while holding the lid pressed to it (you may want to do this over a sink the first time). The frittata will come to rest on the lid.

4: Turn the skillet right-side up, slide the frittata back into it, and cook it for a couple of minutes more to set it through. It shouldn't be runny, nor should it be bone dry. As a variation in technique, if your skillet has heatproof handles you can slip it under the broiler for a few minutes once the top begins to set.

5: Slice the frittata into wedges as you might a pizza before you serve it.

Frittata Recipes On Site

Frittata alla Veneta
A frittata with tomatoes, anchovies, garlic and parsley. Very tasty!

Frittata con le Cipolle
A delicate oniony frittata.

Frittata con gli Spinaci
Spinach is an excellent additon to eggs! Also suggestions for other vegetables.

Frittata col Prezzemolo
Simplicity in itself, a frittata made with herbs.

Frittata con le Patate
Something richer than the normal frittata, which is great in cooler weather.

Frittata di Cavolfiore
Cauliflower works very well in a frittata. The recipe is drawn from Artusi.

Frittata di Aglio e Prezzemolo
Garlic, parsley and cheese: simple, rustic, and satisfying.

Frittata con il Salami
A classic onion-and salami frittata from the Val D'Aosta.

A Spaghetti Frittata
Pasta and eggs are a fine combination, and this frittata is perfect summer fare of the sort that's wonderful served cool on a hot day.

Joe's Special
Joe's Special is a savory, meaty frittata developed to satisfy band members after hours in San Francisco during the 20s. And it's just as tasty now.

Una Frittata Dolce
Most frittate are savory, but here's one to close the meal with!

Frittata Di Mele Alla Borghese
Another sweet frittata, this time with apples, for dessert.