Salt Roasting Meats and Fish, Or:

One would think that a piece of meat or fish roasted in a pan full of salt would emerge inedible. And one would be wrong, because the salt surrounding the food draws moisture and fat from it, but doesn't really penetrate much. So when you break the crust that forms during the roasting, you find moist, delicately flavored, perfectly seasoned fish or meat. Couple this with the ease of the technique, which requires food, coarse grained salt, and a roasting pan, and who could ask for more?

Let's begin with the salt:

• To roast a fish or piece of meat in salt you'll need several pounds (1 pound is about 1/2 k) of coarse grained salt -- enough to surround the food with a 3/4 to 1 1/4-inch (2-3 cm) layer of salt.
• Italians generally use sale marino grosso, coarse sea salt, but kosher salt will also work. You don't want salts that are iodized or treated to keep them from clumping up if it's humid.
• You can use just salt, or mix chopped herbs into it, for example rosemary or sage, or lemon zest. Whole garlic cloves also add a nice touch.


What foods are best suited to salt roasting?

Whole fish, poultry (again whole) and larger pieces of meat; since salt draws fat and moisture from the food the technique works best with foods that aren't too lean, and also with pieces that weigh at least a pound (500 g).

Fish should be cleaned, but not scaled.

Birds should not be trussed, and should be at room temperature when they go into the salt.

Pieces of meat unprotected by skin can be briefly seared to seal in the juices, while meats that are relatively lean will benefit from lardoning with strips of lard or pancetta.

Got Everything? How to proceed?

• Take a pan large enough for your food to lie flat, and of the proper shape: If you're cooking a whole fish or chicken something oval-shaped will be perfect. The pan should be at least an inch (2 1/2 cm) deeper than what you are cooking, which means that for a chicken you will need a casserole. Line your pan with a 3/4-inch (2 cm) layer of coarse salt.
• Lay the food on the salt, together with whatever seasonings the recipe calls for, and add enough salt to cover it by about 3/4 of an inch - don't worry if the sides of the mound slope off, what's important is the thickness of the top layer, which should be uniform, and the same as the bottom layer. If you are using herbed salt, put whatever you didn't use in a jar and set it aside for next time.
• If you want a more compact crust (some people prefer it so) you can mix an egg yolk or two (unbeaten) into the salt before beginning.
• If what you are cooking is not particularly aromatic you can recover the salt, breaking it up (I use a mortar) and keeping it in a jar until next time, when you will be able to use a 50-50 blend of new and old salt.
• When the pan is ready, put it into a preheated oven. Since the salt forms a crust that to a degree insulates the food from the heat you'll have to figure somewhat longer cooking times than you would for saltless roasting -- about 15 minutes more -- and also somewhat higher temperatures -- 400-440 F (200-220C) for foods that require time, and 460-500 F (230-250 C) for foods that cook quickly.
• Some sample cooking times:
  Pork loin (2.2 pounds, or 1 k), 75 minutes
  A whole fish (2.2 pounds, or 1 k), 40 minutes (see Luciano's tips on doneness)
  A whole chicken, 90 minutes
  Roast beef (2 1/2 pounds, 1.2 k), 60 minutes
• When the cooking time is up, remove the pan from the oven and bring it to the table, together with a platter (if you have roasted meat) and a bowl. Use a meat pounder or a hammer to break the crust, removing the pieces of crust to the bowl, and when you have exposed the food -- assuming it is meat, brush off the grains of salt still on it and transfer it to a platter to carve it. If you are instead serving fish, remove the top layer of salt, and the skin, and then serve it directly from the pan (see how Luciano does it).

That's it! As I said, very easy.

Some Recipes:

• Lonza alle Spezie, a Spicy Salt-Roasted Pork Loin Recipe
  Since salt roasting draws moisture (and fat) from unprotected meats, you will need to lardon the loin with pancetta. The result is a delightfully moist pork roast, served with a spicy horseradish sauce.
• Lonza alle Spezie, Illustrated
  The same recipe as above, in several photographs to show the steps involved.
• Pollo Al Sale Alle Mele
  Fruit fillings are fairly common in Italy, and this apple filling will contribute beautifully to salt-roasted chicken, making it even moister and more flavorful.
• Pollo al Sale Grosso
  A simple, tasty, lemony recipe for salt-roasted chicken.
• Bistecca al Sale
  Steak roasted in salt. I hesitated when I was offered it, but it was good!
• Luciano's Illustrated Salt-Roasted Fish
  Luciano used to fish off the coast of Tuscany, and regretfully returned to land to take over the family restaurant. He knows whathe's doing and gives excellent advice.
• Dentice Alla Rustica
  Dentice, dentex, is one of the most prized Mediterranean fish. Rich, flavorful, and gains a special something when prepared with this rustic capery sauce and salt roasted. If you live outside the Mediterranean, Sea Bream is an excellent substitute.
• Pagello al Sale
  The first time I was ever served fish cooked this way, I was astonished at how tender and tasty it was. This is quite simple, and you could roast any other not-too-oily fish this way.
• Salmone all'Aneto
  Salt-roasting is a perfect technique for cooking salmon, because the salt will draw some of the oil from the fish, leaving it lighter and easier to digest.
• Salmone Agli Aromi
  Salmon fillet seasoned with sliced lemon and herbs, and salt roasted. Quite nice, and romantic, too.