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L'Arrosto Morto

Not Quite a Pot Roast

By Kyle Phillips, About.com

The word roast brings to mind something elegant, for a festive occasion, say something along the lines of a prime rib roast, roast veal, roast pork, game birds, or guinea hen, done in the oven, or, if possible, on a spit over the coals. Though elegant, these dishes are standard fare, in the sense that one can find instructions for doing a roast in almost any cookbook. There is another kind of roast Tuscans do for less important occasions, however: The arrosto morto.

The term means "dead roast," and, according to Guido Gianni, derives from the fact that the meat sits in a pot, rather than spinning on a spit. He goes on to say, in La Cucina Aretina, that in much of Tuscany the meat to be roasted in the pot is seasoned with a minced mixture of celery, carrot, onion and parsley, but never garlic, whereas the cooks of Arezzo use garlic and juniper berries to season game, garlic and sage for rabbit or chicken, or garlic and rosemary for veal or pork.

"Set a heavy-bottomed pot on the fire, pour in a bit of oil, and add the garlic and the herb best suited to the cut of meat," he says. "Rub the meat with salt and pepper, and add it to the pot when the garlic begins to crackle. Cook, turning, until it is browned on all sides, then sprinkle with dry white wine; when it has evaporated, add a little bit of broth…" You will want just enough to keep the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pot or drying out.

Once you have added the liquid, turn down the heat, cover the pot, and simmer the meat until done (till the juices clear, or to your taste -- a half hour for a rare roast beef weighing 1 1/2 pounds, or up to 3 hours for a large roast well done), adding liquid sparingly if necessary.

You are not making a stew; the liquid should be completely evaporated by the time the meat is done, leaving only the flavor-laden drippings behind. Slice the roast, spoon the drippings over the slices, and serve the meat either hot or cold, depending on the season.

Artusi gives a number of recipes for making an arrosto morto in his Scienza in Cucina e L’Arte di Mangiar Bene;. Here is his basic recipe:

Arrosto Morto - Pot Roast

You can use the following method for any sort of meat, though I feel that it works best with suckling calf. Take a good-sized piece of loin, with the kidney attached. Roll it and tie the meat with a string so it stays together, and set it in a pot with small amounts of good oil and butter. Once the meat has browned on all sides, salt it, and add just enough broth to simmer it until done; there should be almost no liquid left when it is.

You will find that the absence of the aroma and flavor imparted by the spit is compensated by the roast's delicacy and tenderness. In the absence of broth, use tomato sauce or paste diluted in water. If you prefer the meat more flavorful, mince a few slices of pancetta and cook them with the meat.

Other Arrosto Morto recipes on this site:

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