Preparing Live Clams (or Mussels), and a Pasta Sauce for Them

In Italy one generally buys live clams or mussels by the bag, with the bag's being made of netting or otherwise prepared so as to allow the animals to breathe, and the chances are that the shells will be partially open as they sit on the shelf or bed of crushed ice or what have you. If you shake the bag the bag gently, they should shut tight; animals that fail to react when they're jogged are either dead or dying, and you don't want either. Bend over and sniff the bag too; though shellfish do smell slightly fishy, off or sharp odors are again a bad sign; select something else.

Where you procure your shellfish is also important: Clams and mussels are filter feeders, and if their water contains pollution or harmful bacteria, so will they.

Therefore, avoid roadside stands and people selling shellfish off the back of trucks, and, if you decide to gather your own, check with the authorities to make sure the area where you plan to gather is safe before you do.

Once you get home with your shellfish you will have to keep them alive until you're ready to cook them, and since the preparation does take a while you might as well start immediately. Why the preparation? Because shellfish are filter feeders and bottom dwellers, and therefore tend to be quite sandy.



All photos K. Phillips.