Tuscan cooking, wines, and more
Tuscany has everything from high mountains through rolling hills and sandy beaches, and therefore the list of ingredients the Tuscan cook has at his or her disposal is stunningly long. And then there are the wines...
Alessio Pesucci's Ricotta Gnocchi With Squash Blossom Sauce
Mention gnocchi and most people think of potato gnocchi, because they're the most common kind. However, the word gnocco (pronounced neeocco) means dumpling, and they can be made many ways. Chef Alessio Pesucci made ricotta gnocchi this time, and served them with a tasty squash blossom sauce.
Mention gnocchi and most people think of potato gnocchi, because they're the most common kind. However, the word gnocco (pronounced neeocco) means dumpling, and they can be made many ways. Chef Alessio Pesucci made ricotta gnocchi this time, and served them with a tasty squash blossom sauce.
IllustratedTuscan Wine Grape Pie Recipe - Schiacciata con l'Uva
Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy wine grape pie whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. An illustrated recipe for Schiacciata con l'Uva.
Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy wine grape pie whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. An illustrated recipe for Schiacciata con l'Uva.
Alessio's Saffron Zuccotto - Zuccotto Allo Zafferano
A zuccotto is a tasty summer dessert, a well-chilled cream surrounded by sponge cake that gains zest from a hint of liqueur, and though it looks impressive it's easy to make. Chef Alessio Pesucci of the Locanda del Gallo in Chiochio (outside Florence) used a saffron cream in this zuccotto, in part because saffron is, like wine, one of the traditional Tuscan crops. I took these photos in the course of a cooking class he held, and the end result was quite tasty!
A zuccotto is a tasty summer dessert, a well-chilled cream surrounded by sponge cake that gains zest from a hint of liqueur, and though it looks impressive it's easy to make. Chef Alessio Pesucci of the Locanda del Gallo in Chiochio (outside Florence) used a saffron cream in this zuccotto, in part because saffron is, like wine, one of the traditional Tuscan crops. I took these photos in the course of a cooking class he held, and the end result was quite tasty!
Florentine Zuccottini - Zuccottini alla Fiorentina
The suffix ini is a diminutive, and indeed these are individual portions of zuccotto; you'll need 4 high, smooth--sided molds with an internal diameter of about 3 inches (7 cm). If you want, you could also make a larger zuccotto alla fiorentina, using a hemispherical mold 7 inches (18 cm) in diameter.
The suffix ini is a diminutive, and indeed these are individual portions of zuccotto; you'll need 4 high, smooth--sided molds with an internal diameter of about 3 inches (7 cm). If you want, you could also make a larger zuccotto alla fiorentina, using a hemispherical mold 7 inches (18 cm) in diameter.
Coffee Zuccotto - Zuccotto al Caffè
A simple, creamy dessert that will bring a smile to your guests' faces on a hot day.
A simple, creamy dessert that will bring a smile to your guests' faces on a hot day.
Strawberry Zuccotto - Zuccotto alle Fragole
Strawberries are one of the finest things about late spring, and though some will argue that there's nothing like picking and eating them, they are astonishingly versatile. This traditional Tuscan dessert looks beautiful, and is quite easy to make.
Strawberries are one of the finest things about late spring, and though some will argue that there's nothing like picking and eating them, they are astonishingly versatile. This traditional Tuscan dessert looks beautiful, and is quite easy to make.
Rice Zuccotto - Zuccotto di Riso
Most zuccotti are made with a creamy filling that's put into a bowl lined with pasta Genovese (or pound cake) and chilled well. Here, instead, we have a combination of rice and crema pasticcera, or pastry cream. The effect is different, but equally good, and as is the case with other zuccotti the recipe is easy and results impressive.
Most zuccotti are made with a creamy filling that's put into a bowl lined with pasta Genovese (or pound cake) and chilled well. Here, instead, we have a combination of rice and crema pasticcera, or pastry cream. The effect is different, but equally good, and as is the case with other zuccotti the recipe is easy and results impressive.
Zuccotto
Baking pastries at home is a lot more common than making bread in Italy, though most people stop at a pastry shop if they're invited to dinner. Unless they decide to bring something creamy, and this brings up Jill Heinrich's recent request for a zuccotto recipe. They're popular because they have the right amount of alcohol and combine cake and ice cream, and also they can be made ahead and frozen; if you do so give them time to warm up before serving, as they should be firm but not hard.
Baking pastries at home is a lot more common than making bread in Italy, though most people stop at a pastry shop if they're invited to dinner. Unless they decide to bring something creamy, and this brings up Jill Heinrich's recent request for a zuccotto recipe. They're popular because they have the right amount of alcohol and combine cake and ice cream, and also they can be made ahead and frozen; if you do so give them time to warm up before serving, as they should be firm but not hard.
Alessio Pesucci's Peposo - A Tuscan Answer to Chili
Peposo is a rich peppery stew traditionally made by the tileworkers of Impruneta, near Florence. There are two recipes, one with tomato and one without. Alessio Pesucci makes his without, and it is very nice, an excellent Tuscan answer to Chili.
Peposo is a rich peppery stew traditionally made by the tileworkers of Impruneta, near Florence. There are two recipes, one with tomato and one without. Alessio Pesucci makes his without, and it is very nice, an excellent Tuscan answer to Chili.
Alessio's Crespelle alla Fiorentina
Crespelle, as one might guess, is the Italian word for crepes, and they go back a very long ways. They also look beautiful, and are quite easy to make, once you have the hang of it, and are therefore the sort of thing that people will think you have gone to great deal more effort to make than you have. In short, the perfect beginning to a Sunday dinner or holiday meal, or something to serve company.
Crespelle, as one might guess, is the Italian word for crepes, and they go back a very long ways. They also look beautiful, and are quite easy to make, once you have the hang of it, and are therefore the sort of thing that people will think you have gone to great deal more effort to make than you have. In short, the perfect beginning to a Sunday dinner or holiday meal, or something to serve company.
Alessio's Crespelle alla Fiorentina - An Illustrated Baked Pasta Recipe
Crespelle, as one might guess, is the Italian word for crepes, and they go back a very long ways. They also look beautiful, and are quite easy to make, once you have the hang of it, and are therefore the sort of thing that people will think you have gone to great deal more effort to make than you have. In short, the perfect beginning to a Sunday dinner or holiday meal, or something to serve company.
Crespelle, as one might guess, is the Italian word for crepes, and they go back a very long ways. They also look beautiful, and are quite easy to make, once you have the hang of it, and are therefore the sort of thing that people will think you have gone to great deal more effort to make than you have. In short, the perfect beginning to a Sunday dinner or holiday meal, or something to serve company.
Artusi's Black Risotto With Florentine-Style Cuttlefish
Artusi wrote his cookbook in 1890, and since he self-published he did things his way. A modern editor might object to the format, but the recipes, amply tested in his kitchen, work very well. Here we have Risotto with cuttlefish, their ink, and peas, a variation with tomato (no ink), and also cuttlefish and peas. You could also use squid.
Artusi wrote his cookbook in 1890, and since he self-published he did things his way. A modern editor might object to the format, but the recipes, amply tested in his kitchen, work very well. Here we have Risotto with cuttlefish, their ink, and peas, a variation with tomato (no ink), and also cuttlefish and peas. You could also use squid.
Brutti Ma Buoni
The term Brutti ma Buoni means Ugly but Good, and is quite apt, because these traditional Tuscan cookies don't look like much, but vanish off the plate when you set them out. They take a bit of effort to make, but are well worth it.
The term Brutti ma Buoni means Ugly but Good, and is quite apt, because these traditional Tuscan cookies don't look like much, but vanish off the plate when you set them out. They take a bit of effort to make, but are well worth it.
Zuppa del Duca, The Duke's Pudding
There are a number of stories about the origins of tiramisu. One holds that it was invented by Sienese pastry chefs in the late 1600s to honor Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici, who was known for his sweet tooth. They initially called it Zuppa del Duca, or Duke's Pudding. It was a terrific success, especially among courtesans, who found it both stimulating and aphrodisiac, and thus enjoyed it before trysts; with time they took to calling it tiramisu, or pick me up.
There are a number of stories about the origins of tiramisu. One holds that it was invented by Sienese pastry chefs in the late 1600s to honor Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici, who was known for his sweet tooth. They initially called it Zuppa del Duca, or Duke's Pudding. It was a terrific success, especially among courtesans, who found it both stimulating and aphrodisiac, and thus enjoyed it before trysts; with time they took to calling it tiramisu, or pick me up.
Leonardo Romanelli's Pasta e Ceci, or Chickpea and Pasta Soup
Though you may be more familiar with pasta e fagioli (pasta fazool), pasta goes just as well with ceci, or chickpeas, and this chickpea pasta soup is wonderful in winter.
Though you may be more familiar with pasta e fagioli (pasta fazool), pasta goes just as well with ceci, or chickpeas, and this chickpea pasta soup is wonderful in winter.
Tuscan Artichokes - Carciofata Toscana
Potatoes and artichokes balance very well, and there are a number of ways to cook them up. My wife's grandmother simply boils them together in a pot. This Tuscan recipe for potatoes and artichokes is a little more elegant.
Potatoes and artichokes balance very well, and there are a number of ways to cook them up. My wife's grandmother simply boils them together in a pot. This Tuscan recipe for potatoes and artichokes is a little more elegant.
Kale Farinata - Farinata di Cavolo Nero
A farinata is a thick porridge, usually made with vegetables, broth, and finely ground corn meal. This recipe is Tuscan, from the mountains, and is classic winter fare; it was made as a one-course supper, with the leftovers being sliced, grilled, and eaten for breakfast, perhaps with a glass of wine.
A farinata is a thick porridge, usually made with vegetables, broth, and finely ground corn meal. This recipe is Tuscan, from the mountains, and is classic winter fare; it was made as a one-course supper, with the leftovers being sliced, grilled, and eaten for breakfast, perhaps with a glass of wine.
Kale Farinata II - Farinata Col Cavolo Nero II
A farinata is a thick porridge, usually made with vegetables, broth, and finely ground corn meal. This is an old Tuscan recipe, and a fine example of frugal Italian country cooking. It says it will serve 6-8 as a one-course meal with a tossed salad, though in my experience the estimate is optimistic: expect people to demand seconds.
A farinata is a thick porridge, usually made with vegetables, broth, and finely ground corn meal. This is an old Tuscan recipe, and a fine example of frugal Italian country cooking. It says it will serve 6-8 as a one-course meal with a tossed salad, though in my experience the estimate is optimistic: expect people to demand seconds.
Andar per Antipasti: Crostini
No festive Tuscan meal would be complete without a platter of crostini to start it off.
No festive Tuscan meal would be complete without a platter of crostini to start it off.
La Cucina degli Etruschi
Etruscan Cooking: A selection of traditional Tuscan recipes from around Arezzo
Etruscan Cooking: A selection of traditional Tuscan recipes from around Arezzo
Baked Beans with Cheese -- Fagioli col Formaggio, in Forno
Fagioli col Formaggio, in Forno -- -- Baked Beans with Cheese
Fagioli col Formaggio, in Forno -- -- Baked Beans with Cheese
Rice Fritters -- Frittelle di Riso
There are all sorts of Carnival (Mardi Gras) pastries in Italy. Here we have the traditional Florentine frittelle di riso, which are also made on March 19th to celebrate San Giovanni, Florence's patron saint.
There are all sorts of Carnival (Mardi Gras) pastries in Italy. Here we have the traditional Florentine frittelle di riso, which are also made on March 19th to celebrate San Giovanni, Florence's patron saint.
Recipes from the Kitchen Wall
For many years my mother kept a poster with traditional Tuscan recipes from old Tuscan restaurants and trattorias, places with names like Trattoria del Co'co Sporco (the Filthy Cook's Trattoria) and Al Principe (The Prince's). The poster is by now faded and yellowed with age, but the recipes are as fresh as they were when Mom first tacked them to the wall.
For many years my mother kept a poster with traditional Tuscan recipes from old Tuscan restaurants and trattorias, places with names like Trattoria del Co'co Sporco (the Filthy Cook's Trattoria) and Al Principe (The Prince's). The poster is by now faded and yellowed with age, but the recipes are as fresh as they were when Mom first tacked them to the wall.
La Cucina degli Etruschi
Several very traditional recipes from around Arezzo, in Tuscany.
Several very traditional recipes from around Arezzo, in Tuscany.
Due Maremmani
Maremma is a wild part of Tuscany whose inhabitants were forced to turn frugality into an art. They may not have had much, but they knew how to cook it well. Recipes for Acquacotta, a vegetable soup, and Scottiglia, a meat stew.
Maremma is a wild part of Tuscany whose inhabitants were forced to turn frugality into an art. They may not have had much, but they knew how to cook it well. Recipes for Acquacotta, a vegetable soup, and Scottiglia, a meat stew.
Judy Witts's Food Notes
Judy is a food writer and chef, with an encyclopedic knowledge of food. She also finds time to run a cooking school, Mangia Firenze, from her apartment, which overlooks San Lorenzo, Florence's central market.
Judy is a food writer and chef, with an encyclopedic knowledge of food. She also finds time to run a cooking school, Mangia Firenze, from her apartment, which overlooks San Lorenzo, Florence's central market.
Anchovy and chicken liver crostini -- Crostini di Fegatini e Acciughe
The combination of anchovies and chicken livers isn't as odd as one might think. Indeed, the two work quite nicely in this simple antipasto.
The combination of anchovies and chicken livers isn't as odd as one might think. Indeed, the two work quite nicely in this simple antipasto.
Crostini Made with Spleen -- Crostini di Milza
Though spleen isn't easy to come by any more, it is very nice in this pate to spread over crostini.
Though spleen isn't easy to come by any more, it is very nice in this pate to spread over crostini.
Chicken Liver Crostini -- Crostini di Fegatini di Pollo
No festive Tuscan meal would be complete without chicken liver crostini, thin slices of toasted bread spread with a tasty chicken liver pate that even makes converts out of liver haters.
No festive Tuscan meal would be complete without chicken liver crostini, thin slices of toasted bread spread with a tasty chicken liver pate that even makes converts out of liver haters.
Kale on Toasted Bread -- Cavolo con le Fette
These are not, strictly speaking, crostini. However, they are extremely good, and since you spread your kale over toasted bread they are leaning in that direction, though some might also identify them with bruschetta.
These are not, strictly speaking, crostini. However, they are extremely good, and since you spread your kale over toasted bread they are leaning in that direction, though some might also identify them with bruschetta.
Crostini with Black Olives -- Crostini alle Olive Nere
Aldo Santini calls these crostini "the poor man's caviar," and he's right.
Aldo Santini calls these crostini "the poor man's caviar," and he's right.
Caper Crostini -- Crostini di Capperi
This 19th century antipasto appears in a number of cookbooks; Artusi also suggests you serve these between the courses in a banquet to perk up flagging appetites.
This 19th century antipasto appears in a number of cookbooks; Artusi also suggests you serve these between the courses in a banquet to perk up flagging appetites.
Pinzimonio
A big bowl of fresh, tasty chopped raw vegetables served with oil and vinegar that your guests can mix and season to taste in their own little bowls makes for a perfect antipasto or side dish.
A big bowl of fresh, tasty chopped raw vegetables served with oil and vinegar that your guests can mix and season to taste in their own little bowls makes for a perfect antipasto or side dish.
Chilled Eggplant: Melanzane Fredde
Chilled eggplant, which will work nicely as an antipasto or side dish.
Chilled eggplant, which will work nicely as an antipasto or side dish.
Rustic Stewed Peppers: Peperonata Rustica
Tasty, simple stewed peppers.
Tasty, simple stewed peppers.
Panzanella
A simple, delicious Tuscan bread salad.
A simple, delicious Tuscan bread salad.
Livorno's Fava Beans or Bones of the Dead -- Fave Livornesi o Ossa di Morto
Livorno's Fava Beans or Bones of the Dead -- Fave Livornesi o Ossa di Morto: There are many versions of the Bones of the Dead, cookies Italians make for the Day of the Dead, November 2. The Livornesi use almonds in theirs.
Livorno's Fava Beans or Bones of the Dead -- Fave Livornesi o Ossa di Morto: There are many versions of the Bones of the Dead, cookies Italians make for the Day of the Dead, November 2. The Livornesi use almonds in theirs.
Ricciarelli: Sienese Christmas Cookies
Terry asked for a recipe for ricciarelli, classic Sienese almond paste cookies that were once a Christmas delight but are now made year-round: There are lots of recipes, as you may have guessed. Most are industrial, but here's one that reduces the yield from 30 k to about 2. It calls for a scale but the results will be worth it (28 g = 1 ounce, 1 k = 2.2 pounds).
Terry asked for a recipe for ricciarelli, classic Sienese almond paste cookies that were once a Christmas delight but are now made year-round: There are lots of recipes, as you may have guessed. Most are industrial, but here's one that reduces the yield from 30 k to about 2. It calls for a scale but the results will be worth it (28 g = 1 ounce, 1 k = 2.2 pounds).
Mostaccioli
Lynn wrote asking for "Mostachoulli, which are sold in bakeries during Christmas. They're glazed with chocolate and inside is a soft, chewy mixture of chocolate, figs, cinnamon, nuts and orange." I've never encountered these, but did find another mostaccioli recipe in Italian, for traditional cookies made with grape must during the fall. Since they didn't have an English translation, here we are:
Lynn wrote asking for "Mostachoulli, which are sold in bakeries during Christmas. They're glazed with chocolate and inside is a soft, chewy mixture of chocolate, figs, cinnamon, nuts and orange." I've never encountered these, but did find another mostaccioli recipe in Italian, for traditional cookies made with grape must during the fall. Since they didn't have an English translation, here we are:
Cavallucci
While we're on the subject of anise cookies, though Siena is best known for Panforte, a rich Christmas pastry made with almonds, honey, flour and candied fruit, the town's cooks have also been making solid, chewy anise cookies called cavallucci since at least the 16th century. The name means "little horses;" Giovanni Righi Parenti says they are a gentrified version of a pastry for the servants, and since they were originally made for those in the stables, that's where their name comes from.
While we're on the subject of anise cookies, though Siena is best known for Panforte, a rich Christmas pastry made with almonds, honey, flour and candied fruit, the town's cooks have also been making solid, chewy anise cookies called cavallucci since at least the 16th century. The name means "little horses;" Giovanni Righi Parenti says they are a gentrified version of a pastry for the servants, and since they were originally made for those in the stables, that's where their name comes from.
Pecorino Toscano Skewers -- Spiedini Di Pecorino Toscano
Pecorino Toscano Skewers, or Spiedini Di Pecorino Toscano: Classic cocktail food, and the sort of thing that you can assemble as you see fit.
Pecorino Toscano Skewers, or Spiedini Di Pecorino Toscano: Classic cocktail food, and the sort of thing that you can assemble as you see fit.
Savory Farro Pie: Torta Salata di Farro
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
Torta Fiorentina -- A Florentine Cake
This is off the back of a packet of chemical cake yeast (an Italian equivalent of baking powder), and was a very pleasant surprise. It's essentially a quick schiacciata alla Fiorentina, the flat orangy cake that accompanies Florentines through the [link url=http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0149.htm]Carnival season[/link].
This is off the back of a packet of chemical cake yeast (an Italian equivalent of baking powder), and was a very pleasant surprise. It's essentially a quick schiacciata alla Fiorentina, the flat orangy cake that accompanies Florentines through the [link url=http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/blr0149.htm]Carnival season[/link].
Buccellato di Lucca
Buccellato di Lucca: Wende Giovannoni, whose husband is from Lucca, has very kindly shared one of his favorites, a dish that magically transports him back home with the first bite:
Buccellato di Lucca: Wende Giovannoni, whose husband is from Lucca, has very kindly shared one of his favorites, a dish that magically transports him back home with the first bite:
Ciambelle, or Buccellati (II)
Buccellati means riddled, and refers to the texture of this ring cake from the Lunigiana region. This recipe is, as Pellegrino Artusi notes, perfect for family use. He also proposes a much more involved recipe that will feed a multitude.
Buccellati means riddled, and refers to the texture of this ring cake from the Lunigiana region. This recipe is, as Pellegrino Artusi notes, perfect for family use. He also proposes a much more involved recipe that will feed a multitude.
Ciambelle, or Buccellati
Buccellati means riddled, and refers to the texture of this ring cake, which is from the Lunigiana area in Tuscany. The recipe is, as Pellegrino Artusi notes, involved. He also proposes an easier version for family use.
Buccellati means riddled, and refers to the texture of this ring cake, which is from the Lunigiana area in Tuscany. The recipe is, as Pellegrino Artusi notes, involved. He also proposes an easier version for family use.
Schiacciata alla Fiorentina
The more traditional recipes for this classic Florentine Easter cake call for lard and require that you make a starter loaf with the yeast. This recipe, pried by my mother-in-law from Il Rossino, a pastry chef in Florence's Via Centostelle, does not, and is good enough to be eaten rear round.
The more traditional recipes for this classic Florentine Easter cake call for lard and require that you make a starter loaf with the yeast. This recipe, pried by my mother-in-law from Il Rossino, a pastry chef in Florence's Via Centostelle, does not, and is good enough to be eaten rear round.
Chestnut Flour Migliaccio
A traditional chestnut-flour pastry, from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Art of Eating Well.
A traditional chestnut-flour pastry, from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Art of Eating Well.
Rustic Almond Tart: Torta Rustica di Mandorle
An overdose of almonds! But tasty.
An overdose of almonds! But tasty.
Siena's Panforte: A Christmas Delight
A heavenly confection born of a boy's visit to the Baby Jesus.
A heavenly confection born of a boy's visit to the Baby Jesus.
Asparagus Florentine: Asparagi alla Fiorentina
Soft-cooked eggs over a bed of asparagus.
Soft-cooked eggs over a bed of asparagus.
Tuna Croquettes for Days of Abstinence -- Crocchette di Magro al Tonno
Tuna Croquettes for Days of Abstinence, or Crocchette di Magro al Tonno: Up until Vatican II (and even now, if one reads the rules), the Church directed that Catholics avoid meats on Fridays, and also during Lent. On these days one was to eat fish, and this was relatively easily if one lived in a port town or near a lake or river that yielded fish. However, not all people did, and even those who did had to come up with something when fresh fish wasn't available for one reason or another.
Tuna Croquettes for Days of Abstinence, or Crocchette di Magro al Tonno: Up until Vatican II (and even now, if one reads the rules), the Church directed that Catholics avoid meats on Fridays, and also during Lent. On these days one was to eat fish, and this was relatively easily if one lived in a port town or near a lake or river that yielded fish. However, not all people did, and even those who did had to come up with something when fresh fish wasn't available for one reason or another.
Reef Mullet Al Cartoccio -- Triglie al Cartoccio
Reef Mullet Al Cartoccio, or Triglie al Cartoccio: Bright red reef mullet look so pretty at the table, and taste so good, that it's well worth picking through their many bones. This recipe is Versilian, from the coastal plain north of Pisa.
Reef Mullet Al Cartoccio, or Triglie al Cartoccio: Bright red reef mullet look so pretty at the table, and taste so good, that it's well worth picking through their many bones. This recipe is Versilian, from the coastal plain north of Pisa.
Baked Fresh Tuna -- Tonno Fresco al Cartoccio
Baked Fresh Tuna, or Tonno Fresco al Cartoccio: This is a classic Versilian recipe, from the coastal plain north of Pisa.
Baked Fresh Tuna, or Tonno Fresco al Cartoccio: This is a classic Versilian recipe, from the coastal plain north of Pisa.
Baked Anchovies -- Acciughe in Forno
Baked Anchovies, or Acciughe in Forno: Versilia, being a coastal plain, has lots of fish recipes. Purists who make this recipe don't clean the anchovies, though I think I would. You will in any case need about a 1 1/2 pounds (700 g) of large fresh anchovies to feed four.
Baked Anchovies, or Acciughe in Forno: Versilia, being a coastal plain, has lots of fish recipes. Purists who make this recipe don't clean the anchovies, though I think I would. You will in any case need about a 1 1/2 pounds (700 g) of large fresh anchovies to feed four.
Snapper alla Livornese
Snapper alla Livornese: Bobby instead asked for sea bass or snapper Livornese -- in Livorno the dish is made with reef mullet, which are a pretty red and have a tremendous number of bones, but the sauce will be the same regardless of the fish you use. The fish should in any case be quite fresh.
Snapper alla Livornese: Bobby instead asked for sea bass or snapper Livornese -- in Livorno the dish is made with reef mullet, which are a pretty red and have a tremendous number of bones, but the sauce will be the same regardless of the fish you use. The fish should in any case be quite fresh.
Bishop's and Country Style Trout -- Trote del Vescovo & Alla Paesana
Bishop's and Country Style Trout: Trote del Vescovo -- The Casentino Mountains of south-eastern Tuscany enjoy abundant rainfall, and consequently have many streams. As is often the case with Italian recipes, the original I worked from doesn't say how many fish to prepare -- figure as many as you expect your diners to want. The Bishop enjoyed meat in his, while the country folk had theirs without.
Bishop's and Country Style Trout: Trote del Vescovo -- The Casentino Mountains of south-eastern Tuscany enjoy abundant rainfall, and consequently have many streams. As is often the case with Italian recipes, the original I worked from doesn't say how many fish to prepare -- figure as many as you expect your diners to want. The Bishop enjoyed meat in his, while the country folk had theirs without.
Reef Mullet, Viareggio Style -- Triglie alla Viareggina
Mullet are extremely tasty, so tasty that it's worth putting up with their many spines. This is a simple Tuscan recipe for them, from the town of Viareggio.
Mullet are extremely tasty, so tasty that it's worth putting up with their many spines. This is a simple Tuscan recipe for them, from the town of Viareggio.
Cacciucco Alla Livornese
Livorno's fiery fish stew, a glaring exception to the rule that Tuscan food is bland
Livorno's fiery fish stew, a glaring exception to the rule that Tuscan food is bland
Cacciucco alla Viareggina
Viareggio's fish stew is milder than what's made in Livorno.
Viareggio's fish stew is milder than what's made in Livorno.
Peaches in Syrup -- Pesche in Guazzo
Peaches in Syrup, or Pesche in Guazzo: Here's a way to keep peaches a bit beyond the season, drawn from a book entitled Il Re Dei Cuochi, published anonymously in 1885 by Salani. Use the tastiest peaches you can find.
Peaches in Syrup, or Pesche in Guazzo: Here's a way to keep peaches a bit beyond the season, drawn from a book entitled Il Re Dei Cuochi, published anonymously in 1885 by Salani. Use the tastiest peaches you can find.
Polenta Col Sugo di Coniglio
Polenta with stewed rabbit, an extremely tasty one-course meal.
Polenta with stewed rabbit, an extremely tasty one-course meal.
Cinghiale fra Due Fuochi
Wild boar (or other game) marinated and stewed with the marinade, will work beautifully with polenta.
Wild boar (or other game) marinated and stewed with the marinade, will work beautifully with polenta.
Tuscan Orange and Fennel Country Salad
A tasty, refreshing salad for the winter months.
A tasty, refreshing salad for the winter months.
Tuscan Minestrone, With Beans -- Minestrone alla Toscana, con Fagioli
Tuscan Minestrone, With Beans, or Minestrone alla Toscana, con Fagioli: Tuscans are known for their love of beans, so it's fitting that they go into this soup, which builds on a basic minestrone.
Tuscan Minestrone, With Beans, or Minestrone alla Toscana, con Fagioli: Tuscans are known for their love of beans, so it's fitting that they go into this soup, which builds on a basic minestrone.
Kale Soup over Garlic Toasted Bread -- Zuppa di Cavolo Nero su Fette di Pane all'Aglio
Kale Soup over Garlic Toasted Bread, or Zuppa di Cavolo Nero su Fette di Pane all'Aglio: Tuscany is well known for bread soups, in particular the minestra di pane that's common in the center of the region during the winter months, and its cousin, ribollita, which one makes by reheating one's minestra di pane the next day. This soup is instead from Versilia, the coastal region north of the Arno, and involves considerably more garlic than one encounters inland.
Kale Soup over Garlic Toasted Bread, or Zuppa di Cavolo Nero su Fette di Pane all'Aglio: Tuscany is well known for bread soups, in particular the minestra di pane that's common in the center of the region during the winter months, and its cousin, ribollita, which one makes by reheating one's minestra di pane the next day. This soup is instead from Versilia, the coastal region north of the Arno, and involves considerably more garlic than one encounters inland.
Cooked Water with Greens -- Acquacotta di Verdure
Acquacotta di Verdure -- -- Cooked Water with Greens
Acquacotta di Verdure -- -- Cooked Water with Greens
Minestrone
Minestrone is one of the commonest dishes in Italy, and every region has its own variety. This recipe is based on the one given by Pellegrino Artusi, the late dean of Italian gastronomes, and is therefore Tosco-Romagnolo (he was born in Romagna and lived in Tuscany). His book is great reading, and in introducing the recipe he gives a sobering view of nineteenth century life, which we will come to below.:
Minestrone is one of the commonest dishes in Italy, and every region has its own variety. This recipe is based on the one given by Pellegrino Artusi, the late dean of Italian gastronomes, and is therefore Tosco-Romagnolo (he was born in Romagna and lived in Tuscany). His book is great reading, and in introducing the recipe he gives a sobering view of nineteenth century life, which we will come to below.:
Frugal Farro (Spelt) Soup: Minestra Povera di Farro
The soup of the poor who lived in the mountains along the Tosco-Emilian border. And very tasty too.
The soup of the poor who lived in the mountains along the Tosco-Emilian border. And very tasty too.
Bread Soup and Ribollita: Minestra di Pane e Ribollita
Two of the best uses imaginable for day-old bread, and one soup that makes winter worth getting excited over.
Two of the best uses imaginable for day-old bread, and one soup that makes winter worth getting excited over.
Farro (Spelt) Soup: Zuppa di Farro
A rich, hearty whole-grain soup from the hills overlooking Lucca.
A rich, hearty whole-grain soup from the hills overlooking Lucca.
Farro (Spelt) and Black Leaf Kale Soup: Farro e Cavolo Nero
The combination of Farro and Kale makes for a wonderful winter soup.
The combination of Farro and Kale makes for a wonderful winter soup.
Ham Bone and vegetable Soup: Zuppa Con L'Osso del Prosciutto
A hearty vegetable soup made with bread and a ham bone, from Montalcino.
A hearty vegetable soup made with bread and a ham bone, from Montalcino.
Ribollita
Stuart Borken's version of a Tuscan classic.
Stuart Borken's version of a Tuscan classic.
Squash and Bean Soup: Sbroscia della Vecchia Versilia
True peasant food, a simple squash and bean soup.
True peasant food, a simple squash and bean soup.
Rice Fritters -- Frittelle di Riso
Rice Fritters, or Frittelle di Riso: And finally, while we're on the subject of sweets, a recipe for frittelle di riso that I transcribed while watching Elisabetta make them. Frittelle are fritters, and though these are quite simple they're also quite good.
Rice Fritters, or Frittelle di Riso: And finally, while we're on the subject of sweets, a recipe for frittelle di riso that I transcribed while watching Elisabetta make them. Frittelle are fritters, and though these are quite simple they're also quite good.
Cenci! Or Frappe, Chiacchere, or...
To begin at the beginning, perhaps the best-known Carnival pastries are Cenci (the word means rags), whose many aliases include Frappe, Chiacchere (gossips), Lattughe (lettuce leaves) and Nastrini (ribbons); Ada Boni, who borrows Pellegrino Artusi’s recipe, uses the more poetic "Lover’s Knots." They are very pretty when carefully made, so she is probably right.
To begin at the beginning, perhaps the best-known Carnival pastries are Cenci (the word means rags), whose many aliases include Frappe, Chiacchere (gossips), Lattughe (lettuce leaves) and Nastrini (ribbons); Ada Boni, who borrows Pellegrino Artusi’s recipe, uses the more poetic "Lover’s Knots." They are very pretty when carefully made, so she is probably right.
Fave Livornesi o Ossa di Morto
Tuscan Bones of the Dead, laced with orange.
Tuscan Bones of the Dead, laced with orange.
Mostaccioli
Traditional cookes made from bread dough sweetened with grape must or honey.
Traditional cookes made from bread dough sweetened with grape must or honey.
Florentine style Baccalà -- Baccalà alla Fiorentina
Florentine style Baccalà, or Baccalà alla Fiorentina: This is one of the basic recipes for baccalà and has an enormous number of variations. Artusi omits the wine, others add a half a minced onion to the garlic, and still others fry the fish separately and drain it thoroughly, adding it to the sauce at the last minute. No matter how you make it, it's good.
Florentine style Baccalà, or Baccalà alla Fiorentina: This is one of the basic recipes for baccalà and has an enormous number of variations. Artusi omits the wine, others add a half a minced onion to the garlic, and still others fry the fish separately and drain it thoroughly, adding it to the sauce at the last minute. No matter how you make it, it's good.
Baccalà Fisherman's Style -- Baccalà All'Usanza dei Pescatori
Baccalà Fisherman's Style, or Baccalà All'Usanza dei Pescatori: Baccalà is salt cod, and consequently not native to Versilia, the coastal plain north of Pisa. However, it does figure prominently in the diet, in part because it used to be cheap enough that fishermen would eat it so they could sell more of their catch, and an part because it provided a handy alternative for days when the catch was insufficient.
Baccalà Fisherman's Style, or Baccalà All'Usanza dei Pescatori: Baccalà is salt cod, and consequently not native to Versilia, the coastal plain north of Pisa. However, it does figure prominently in the diet, in part because it used to be cheap enough that fishermen would eat it so they could sell more of their catch, and an part because it provided a handy alternative for days when the catch was insufficient.
Baccalà with Greens -- Baccalà con le Erbe
This baccalà with greens is based on Aldo Santini's Cucina Livornese, and will serve 4.
This baccalà with greens is based on Aldo Santini's Cucina Livornese, and will serve 4.
Jailhouse Meat -- Carne da Galera
In the course of a cooking show, Dario Cecchini, Panzano's butcher, presented Carne da Galera, a dish whose name literally translates as Jailhouse Meat. The name comes, he says, from the fact that the cuts involved are less noble, and tended to go bad quickly in the days before refrigeration. Hence this herb-laden pot-roasting method, which was able to cover any off smells the meat might have developed.
In the course of a cooking show, Dario Cecchini, Panzano's butcher, presented Carne da Galera, a dish whose name literally translates as Jailhouse Meat. The name comes, he says, from the fact that the cuts involved are less noble, and tended to go bad quickly in the days before refrigeration. Hence this herb-laden pot-roasting method, which was able to cover any off smells the meat might have developed.
Scottiglia Aretina: Arezzo's Scottiglia
Though scottiglia is generally associated with the Maremma, the wild scrub hills of South Western Tuscany between Siena and Grosseto, it's not limited to that area, and it would perhaps be more correct to consider it an outdoorsy dish of the sort that woodsmen and charcoal burners can make with what they have on hand. Poor people's food, in short, but not less tasty for that.
Though scottiglia is generally associated with the Maremma, the wild scrub hills of South Western Tuscany between Siena and Grosseto, it's not limited to that area, and it would perhaps be more correct to consider it an outdoorsy dish of the sort that woodsmen and charcoal burners can make with what they have on hand. Poor people's food, in short, but not less tasty for that.
Peposo
Peposo is a specialty of Impruneta, a town near Florence that's famous for its terracottas. The stew is a fiery exception to the rule that Tuscan cooking is bland, and is also one of the few dishes to have provoked a general strike. According to legend, Brunelleschi tried some while he was scouting tilemakers for the roof of the Duomo. He loved it...
Peposo is a specialty of Impruneta, a town near Florence that's famous for its terracottas. The stew is a fiery exception to the rule that Tuscan cooking is bland, and is also one of the few dishes to have provoked a general strike. According to legend, Brunelleschi tried some while he was scouting tilemakers for the roof of the Duomo. He loved it...
Scottiglia
Scottiglia, as Aldo Santini observes in "La Cucina Maremmana," is the charcoal-makers' answer to Livorno's cacciucco: A stew made from whatever animals they could catch, boiled in a great pot with whatever seasonings they had on hand. This means that no two cook's scottiglias are the same, and also that batches made by an individual cook can vary considerably.
Scottiglia, as Aldo Santini observes in "La Cucina Maremmana," is the charcoal-makers' answer to Livorno's cacciucco: A stew made from whatever animals they could catch, boiled in a great pot with whatever seasonings they had on hand. This means that no two cook's scottiglias are the same, and also that batches made by an individual cook can vary considerably.
Stewed Ossibuchi: Ossibuchi al Sugo
Simple, but oh so tasty veal shanks in meat sauce (this also yields excellent pasta sauce)
Simple, but oh so tasty veal shanks in meat sauce (this also yields excellent pasta sauce)
Pasta with Ricotta -- Pastasciutta con la Ricotta
Pastasciutta con la Ricotta, or Pasta with Ricotta: A quick, healthy pasta dish that will work well as a light meal, if served with a tossed salad. The recipe is from the Casentino mountains between Arezzo and Florence, and quite traditional.
Pastasciutta con la Ricotta, or Pasta with Ricotta: A quick, healthy pasta dish that will work well as a light meal, if served with a tossed salad. The recipe is from the Casentino mountains between Arezzo and Florence, and quite traditional.
Asparagus in Yellow Sauce -- Asparagi in Salsa Gialla
Asparagus in Yellow Sauce, or Asparagi in Salsa Gialla: This is a simple Florentine way of preparing asparagus. As is often the case in Italian recipes the proportions are up to you, and you can also use the sauce on other vegetables. String beans are especially nice this way.
Asparagus in Yellow Sauce, or Asparagi in Salsa Gialla: This is a simple Florentine way of preparing asparagus. As is often the case in Italian recipes the proportions are up to you, and you can also use the sauce on other vegetables. String beans are especially nice this way.
Baked Beans with Cheese and Herbs: Fagioli col Formaggio, in Forno
Tuscan baked beans with cheese and herbs, to warm heart ans soul in winter.
Tuscan baked beans with cheese and herbs, to warm heart ans soul in winter.
Beans in a Flask: Fagioli al Fiasco
The traditional hearthside technique for making this Tuscan delight (in my review of The Magic of Fire).
The traditional hearthside technique for making this Tuscan delight (in my review of The Magic of Fire).
Fagioli al Fiasco -- Beans in a Flask
Bennett recently asked how to cook fagioli al fiasco and what to do with fresh fava beans. So far as I know, Fagioli al fiasco aren't that different from normal cannellini beans cooked in bianco -- that is, boiled. The major difference is that they are put into a flask, which is settled into the embers of the fire and allowed to cook very slowly. Much like the beans in North American bean pots in some ways.
Bennett recently asked how to cook fagioli al fiasco and what to do with fresh fava beans. So far as I know, Fagioli al fiasco aren't that different from normal cannellini beans cooked in bianco -- that is, boiled. The major difference is that they are put into a flask, which is settled into the embers of the fire and allowed to cook very slowly. Much like the beans in North American bean pots in some ways.
Fagiuoli all'Ucceletto -- Tuscan Tomatoey Beans
Fagiuoli all'uccelletto, beans with a light tomato sauce, are one of the most classic Tuscan dishes, and are a common accompaniment to braised dishes or stews in the winter months. Served with Italian link sausages they also make a perfect winter main course. In short, they're comfort food.
Fagiuoli all'uccelletto, beans with a light tomato sauce, are one of the most classic Tuscan dishes, and are a common accompaniment to braised dishes or stews in the winter months. Served with Italian link sausages they also make a perfect winter main course. In short, they're comfort food.
Baked Beans -- Fagioli Stufati
Baked Beans, or Fagioli Stufati: They're not just from Boston! This is a classic Tuscan recipe.
Baked Beans, or Fagioli Stufati: They're not just from Boston! This is a classic Tuscan recipe.
Old-Style Versilian Sbroscia -- Sbroscia della Vecchia Versilia
This is an old recipe from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa. The base is either squash or large zucchini, and cranberry beans, and in Versilian argot it's referred to as "ignorante," which translates as really rustic.
This is an old recipe from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa. The base is either squash or large zucchini, and cranberry beans, and in Versilian argot it's referred to as "ignorante," which translates as really rustic.
Zuppa Lombarda
While we're on the subject of soup, I recently went to a restaurant called Matteuzzi (Via Certaldese 8, San Casciano Val di Pesa, on the road from San Casciano and Certaldo (near Florence); it's at the bottom of a hill and doesn't have a sign or a door (you enter through the delicatessen next to it when it's open, or the front door of the house when it's not), so you find out about it by word-of-mouth -- or by translating a soon-to-be-published restaurant guide, as I did.
While we're on the subject of soup, I recently went to a restaurant called Matteuzzi (Via Certaldese 8, San Casciano Val di Pesa, on the road from San Casciano and Certaldo (near Florence); it's at the bottom of a hill and doesn't have a sign or a door (you enter through the delicatessen next to it when it's open, or the front door of the house when it's not), so you find out about it by word-of-mouth -- or by translating a soon-to-be-published restaurant guide, as I did.
Hearty Soup with a Ham Bone -- Zuppa Con L'Osso del Prosciutto
This is from Aldo Santini’s La Cucina Maremmana; he got it from Donatella Cinelli, who may be better known for the Brunello she makes in Montalcino, but is also a superb cook. To make it you will need to cozy up to a butcher or delicatessen owner who has a prosciutto bone; in its absence substitute for it with the bone from a well seasoned and cured ham, such as one from Smithfield. It’s a slow-simmering soup that’s perfect for warming the whole house.
This is from Aldo Santini’s La Cucina Maremmana; he got it from Donatella Cinelli, who may be better known for the Brunello she makes in Montalcino, but is also a superb cook. To make it you will need to cozy up to a butcher or delicatessen owner who has a prosciutto bone; in its absence substitute for it with the bone from a well seasoned and cured ham, such as one from Smithfield. It’s a slow-simmering soup that’s perfect for warming the whole house.
Pasta and Bean Soup -- Pasta e Fagioli
Pasta e fagioli, also known as pasta fazool (and many other variations on the spelling) is a universal comfort soup that almost everyone has come up with, and there are a tremendous number of local variations on the theme in Italy. This particular one is Tuscan.
Pasta e fagioli, also known as pasta fazool (and many other variations on the spelling) is a universal comfort soup that almost everyone has come up with, and there are a tremendous number of local variations on the theme in Italy. This particular one is Tuscan.
Zuppa di Farro, Farro Soup
This hearty soup is especially common in the Garfagnana region, the mountains northwest of Lucca, but is popular in the rest of Tuscany as well.
This hearty soup is especially common in the Garfagnana region, the mountains northwest of Lucca, but is popular in the rest of Tuscany as well.
Torta della Nonna
Torta della Nonna: Chrissy asked for a recipe for Torta della Nonna -- Grandma's Cake -- which is, according to Leonardo Romanelli, one of the few consistent highlights in the "dreary Florentine pastry scene". He notes that it's difficult to find it made with ricotta in bakeries, because of ricotta doesn't keep so well, but that's what you'll find at home.
Torta della Nonna: Chrissy asked for a recipe for Torta della Nonna -- Grandma's Cake -- which is, according to Leonardo Romanelli, one of the few consistent highlights in the "dreary Florentine pastry scene". He notes that it's difficult to find it made with ricotta in bakeries, because of ricotta doesn't keep so well, but that's what you'll find at home.
Sienese Ricotta Pie -- Torta di Ricotta
I've had a number of requests for a torta di ricotta, ricotta pie, of late. Like all other traditional recipes, there are many variations to this, some simple and others quite complex. Here's a fairly simple Sienese version, once an Easter treat but now made year round.
I've had a number of requests for a torta di ricotta, ricotta pie, of late. Like all other traditional recipes, there are many variations to this, some simple and others quite complex. Here's a fairly simple Sienese version, once an Easter treat but now made year round.
Wine Grape Pie -- Schiacciata con l'Uva
One of the nicest things about autumn in Tuscany is Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy pastry whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. This is a fairly elegant, city version, in which the traditional lard and honey have been replaced by olive oil and sugar. You will need wine grapes, because those sold for consumption at table are too watery and not sweet enough.
One of the nicest things about autumn in Tuscany is Schiacciata con l'Uva, an astonishingly rich, sinfully juicy pastry whose country roots are clearly revealed by the dough and the crunchiness of the grape seeds. This is a fairly elegant, city version, in which the traditional lard and honey have been replaced by olive oil and sugar. You will need wine grapes, because those sold for consumption at table are too watery and not sweet enough.
Chestnut Flour Migliaccio, Commonly Known as Castagnaccio
Until quite recently the chestnut played a central role in the diet of the people of Lunigiana. This recipe isn't exactly Lunigianan, but it is one of the best uses for chestnut flour I know of. It's taken from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Art of Eating Well, the first commercially successful Italian cookbook aimed at middle class households. The recipe gives a good idea of why Artusi is still popular 110 years after his book came out.
Until quite recently the chestnut played a central role in the diet of the people of Lunigiana. This recipe isn't exactly Lunigianan, but it is one of the best uses for chestnut flour I know of. It's taken from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Art of Eating Well, the first commercially successful Italian cookbook aimed at middle class households. The recipe gives a good idea of why Artusi is still popular 110 years after his book came out.
Pieno di Natale
Pieno di Natale is a traditional, rustic chestnut-based Christmas dessert that Emiliana Lucchesi was given by a Benedictine nun in the Lunigiana, a wild section of northern Tuscany. Quite a far cry from the Marrons Glacées enjoyed by the wealthy!
Pieno di Natale is a traditional, rustic chestnut-based Christmas dessert that Emiliana Lucchesi was given by a Benedictine nun in the Lunigiana, a wild section of northern Tuscany. Quite a far cry from the Marrons Glacées enjoyed by the wealthy!
La Crostata
Shortbread topped with jam or fresh fruit -- the former is classic Tuscan home cooking, while the latter can be extraordinarily elegant.
Shortbread topped with jam or fresh fruit -- the former is classic Tuscan home cooking, while the latter can be extraordinarily elegant.
Buccellato della Lunigiana
A traditional cake from the mountains of Tuscany.
A traditional cake from the mountains of Tuscany.
The Wine-Maker's Veal Cutlets -- Braciole del Vinaio
The Wine-Maker's Veal Cutlets, or Braciole del Vinaio: This Tuscan recipe is simpler than the ingredient list might make you think, and will be quite refreshing on a crisp fall day.
The Wine-Maker's Veal Cutlets, or Braciole del Vinaio: This Tuscan recipe is simpler than the ingredient list might make you think, and will be quite refreshing on a crisp fall day.
Florentine Style Steak -- Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Many in the English-speaking world would call this a Porterhouse and wonder what the fuss is about. And they'd be right in most cases; though fiorentine are featured prominently on the menus of almost all the restaurants in Florence, finding a good one isn't at all easy. But when you do it's heaven on earth, delightfully rich, flavorful rare meat so tender it can be cut with a spoon. Much of the secret is the breed of cattle, Chianina beef...
Many in the English-speaking world would call this a Porterhouse and wonder what the fuss is about. And they'd be right in most cases; though fiorentine are featured prominently on the menus of almost all the restaurants in Florence, finding a good one isn't at all easy. But when you do it's heaven on earth, delightfully rich, flavorful rare meat so tender it can be cut with a spoon. Much of the secret is the breed of cattle, Chianina beef...
Spaghetti or Rice in with Tuna Sauce -- Spaghetti o Riso al Tonno
Spaghetti or Rice in with Tuna Sauce, or Spaghetti o Riso al Tonno: This is an old recipe from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa, and though it is nowhere near as common as it once was it's well worth rediscovering. It will work equally well over spaghetti, short pasta such as penne, or rice.
Spaghetti or Rice in with Tuna Sauce, or Spaghetti o Riso al Tonno: This is an old recipe from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa, and though it is nowhere near as common as it once was it's well worth rediscovering. It will work equally well over spaghetti, short pasta such as penne, or rice.
Spaghetti with Clam Sauce Viareggina Style -- Spaghetti con le Vongole alla Viareggina
Spaghetti with Clam Sauce Viareggina Style, or Spaghetti con le Vongole alla Viareggina: There are innumerable variations on the theme of spaghetti with clams. This calls for live clams (you'll want small-to-medium sized) and is from Viareggio, one of the towns on the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa.
Spaghetti with Clam Sauce Viareggina Style, or Spaghetti con le Vongole alla Viareggina: There are innumerable variations on the theme of spaghetti with clams. This calls for live clams (you'll want small-to-medium sized) and is from Viareggio, one of the towns on the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa.
Chick Peas Pisan Style -- Ceci alla Pisana
Chick Peas Pisan Style, or Ceci alla Pisana: Beans not your cup of tea? Then chick peas. Here's a recipe for ceci alla pisana, chick peas Pisan style, which may seem somewhat unusual, but actually resembles a number of other Tuscan legume dishes in which one cooks the legumes and serves them and their broth over toasted bread. It will be nice in the cooler months.
Chick Peas Pisan Style, or Ceci alla Pisana: Beans not your cup of tea? Then chick peas. Here's a recipe for ceci alla pisana, chick peas Pisan style, which may seem somewhat unusual, but actually resembles a number of other Tuscan legume dishes in which one cooks the legumes and serves them and their broth over toasted bread. It will be nice in the cooler months.
Zuppa Inglese -- English Trifle
This really is a trifle, in the sense of layers of cake and cream, and though it is most Italian it is called English because it was a favorite of English expats.
This really is a trifle, in the sense of layers of cake and cream, and though it is most Italian it is called English because it was a favorite of English expats.
Cuttlefish with greens, Seppie in Inzimino
This is a traditionally Tuscan way of cooking cuttlefish of all sizes; you can also use octopus. The red pepper, which is optional, is typical of Livorno.
This is a traditionally Tuscan way of cooking cuttlefish of all sizes; you can also use octopus. The red pepper, which is optional, is typical of Livorno.
Impruneta's Peposo: An Illustrated Recipe
Peposo is Impruneta's signature stew, a zesty creation that can easily match any chili out there. And it's easy to make, too!
Peposo is Impruneta's signature stew, a zesty creation that can easily match any chili out there. And it's easy to make, too!
Versilian Squash Gnocchi -- Gnocchi di Zucca alla Versiliese
Versilian Squash Gnocchi, or Gnocchi di Zucca alla Versiliese: Italian yellow squash is one of the most frugal foods there is, and is also a food that many of the generations old enough to remember the Second World War want little to do with, because in many areas little else was available for the duration. If it doesn't bring back terrible memories, on the other hand, these are quite nice. If Italian yellow squash is not available where you are, butternut squash is a good substitute.
Versilian Squash Gnocchi, or Gnocchi di Zucca alla Versiliese: Italian yellow squash is one of the most frugal foods there is, and is also a food that many of the generations old enough to remember the Second World War want little to do with, because in many areas little else was available for the duration. If it doesn't bring back terrible memories, on the other hand, these are quite nice. If Italian yellow squash is not available where you are, butternut squash is a good substitute.
Risotto with Moscardini and Scampi -- Risotto con Moscardini e Scampi
Risotto with Moscardini and Scampi, or Risotto con Moscardini e Scampi: Moscardini are little octopuses, about 2 inches long. Scampi are large shrimp. This recipe is from Forte dei Marmi, one of the more exclusive resort towns of the Pianura della Versilia (north of Pisa).
Risotto with Moscardini and Scampi, or Risotto con Moscardini e Scampi: Moscardini are little octopuses, about 2 inches long. Scampi are large shrimp. This recipe is from Forte dei Marmi, one of the more exclusive resort towns of the Pianura della Versilia (north of Pisa).
Pici with Garlic Sauce -- Pici all'Aglione
Pici with Garlic Sauce, or Pici all'Aglione: I recently got a request for pici all'aglione, pici with a garlicky pasta sauce (aglio means garlic, and gives an idea of just how garlicky this is) from the Montepulciano/Montalcino area south of Siena. Pici are hand-made, somewhat irregular strands of flour-and-water pasta (as opposed to egg pasta) that are about an eighth of an inch thick. If you can't find them, use either bucatini or other thick-stranded pasta.
Pici with Garlic Sauce, or Pici all'Aglione: I recently got a request for pici all'aglione, pici with a garlicky pasta sauce (aglio means garlic, and gives an idea of just how garlicky this is) from the Montepulciano/Montalcino area south of Siena. Pici are hand-made, somewhat irregular strands of flour-and-water pasta (as opposed to egg pasta) that are about an eighth of an inch thick. If you can't find them, use either bucatini or other thick-stranded pasta.
Chicken Under a Brick: Pollo al Mattone
An old, possibly even Etruscan way of grilling a chicken.
An old, possibly even Etruscan way of grilling a chicken.
Vittorio's Grilled Chicken
Perfect barbacued chicken.
Perfect barbacued chicken.
Stuffed Goose Neck: Collo di Locio Ripieno
Stuffed goose (or chicken) neck, a festive dish from the Tuscan farmlands.
Stuffed goose (or chicken) neck, a festive dish from the Tuscan farmlands.
Sausage from Lucca -- La Salsiccia di Lucca
Sausage from Lucca, or La Salsiccia di Lucca: One of the advantages of having a former butcher as a father-in-law is that he knows where to get first-rate sausages. After all, he wanted to sell only the best. And even though he has retired, his suppliers are still in business. Not all are as lucky, however. This recipe is quite good.
Sausage from Lucca, or La Salsiccia di Lucca: One of the advantages of having a former butcher as a father-in-law is that he knows where to get first-rate sausages. After all, he wanted to sell only the best. And even though he has retired, his suppliers are still in business. Not all are as lucky, however. This recipe is quite good.
Finocchiona: Tuscan Fennel Salami
Finocchiona is a variation on salami that supposedly owes its origins to a thief at a fair near the town of Prato, who stole a fresh salami and hid it in a stand of wild fennel. When he returned for it, he found it had absorbed the aromas of its hiding place and had become fit for the Gods. There are two varieties of finocchiona, sbriciolona, which is very fresh, and something of an acquired taste, akin to fresh sausage, and finocchiona proper, which is firmer. This is a recipe for the latter.
Finocchiona is a variation on salami that supposedly owes its origins to a thief at a fair near the town of Prato, who stole a fresh salami and hid it in a stand of wild fennel. When he returned for it, he found it had absorbed the aromas of its hiding place and had become fit for the Gods. There are two varieties of finocchiona, sbriciolona, which is very fresh, and something of an acquired taste, akin to fresh sausage, and finocchiona proper, which is firmer. This is a recipe for the latter.
Prosciutto Toscano
When I was younger, a friend of mine's mom would make prosciutto in the back room of their apartment under the eves in downtown Siena, and I remember how good that room smelled as I watched her scoop a couple of handfuls of salt over the ham one day. I haven't ever tried making it myself for want of space, but have found this recipe, in a fascinating book entitled Etruschi il Mito a Tavola, by Giuseppe Alessi.
When I was younger, a friend of mine's mom would make prosciutto in the back room of their apartment under the eves in downtown Siena, and I remember how good that room smelled as I watched her scoop a couple of handfuls of salt over the ham one day. I haven't ever tried making it myself for want of space, but have found this recipe, in a fascinating book entitled Etruschi il Mito a Tavola, by Giuseppe Alessi.
Salame Toscano
Salame Toscano: This recipe is drawn from manuscript dated to 1772.
Salame Toscano: This recipe is drawn from manuscript dated to 1772.
Ossibuchi al Sugo, or: Stewed Veal Shanks with Meat Sauce
The best known Italian recipe for Ossibuchi, veal shanks, is probably ossibuchi alla milanese, which are slowly cooked, and then seasoned with a heady mixture of chopped herbs just before going to the table. One can do other things with shanks as well. Stew them with ground beef, for example, and this recipe yields an extraordinarily satiny pasta sauce, and a superb main course as well. Winter comfort food of the highest order.
The best known Italian recipe for Ossibuchi, veal shanks, is probably ossibuchi alla milanese, which are slowly cooked, and then seasoned with a heady mixture of chopped herbs just before going to the table. One can do other things with shanks as well. Stew them with ground beef, for example, and this recipe yields an extraordinarily satiny pasta sauce, and a superb main course as well. Winter comfort food of the highest order.
Ossibuchi with Meat Sauce: Ossibuchi al Sugo
The recipe is for veal shanks, but it also yields a fantastic meat sauce.
The recipe is for veal shanks, but it also yields a fantastic meat sauce.
Acquacotta -- Cooked Water
Acquacotta literally means cooked water. The dish is generally served as a one course meal, and in the past was eaten in the field by shepherds and stockmen. As is the case with any regional dish, there are as many versions as there are cooks.
Acquacotta literally means cooked water. The dish is generally served as a one course meal, and in the past was eaten in the field by shepherds and stockmen. As is the case with any regional dish, there are as many versions as there are cooks.
Testaroli with Baccalà and Onions -- Testaroli con Baccalà e Cipolle
Though one generally thinks of testaroli as a first course dish they can work very nicely as a bed for other foods, in this case fish and onions. I'd use fairly sweet onions here.
Though one generally thinks of testaroli as a first course dish they can work very nicely as a bed for other foods, in this case fish and onions. I'd use fairly sweet onions here.
Testaroli with Baccalà and Onions -- Testaroli con Baccalà e Cipolle
Though one generally thinks of testaroli as a first course dish they can work very nicely as a bed for other foods, in this case fish and onions. I'd use fairly sweet onions here.
Though one generally thinks of testaroli as a first course dish they can work very nicely as a bed for other foods, in this case fish and onions. I'd use fairly sweet onions here.
Crespelle -- Crepes
Crespelle are the Italian equivalent of crepes. Though the preparation now has a certain ring of elegance to it, in the past crespelle were considered poor people's food. The change came in 1895, when Henri Carpentier, Maitre at Montecarlo's Café de Paris, prepared them at the table for the Prince of Wales. Edward named them after his lady friend -- Crepes Suzette.
Crespelle are the Italian equivalent of crepes. Though the preparation now has a certain ring of elegance to it, in the past crespelle were considered poor people's food. The change came in 1895, when Henri Carpentier, Maitre at Montecarlo's Café de Paris, prepared them at the table for the Prince of Wales. Edward named them after his lady friend -- Crepes Suzette.
Pappa al Pomodoro
Pappa al pomodoro sounds like kid's food, and it is -- for kids of all ages. In the past it was also very much a homey dish, a tasty summer way to use up leftover bread that no housewife would have dreamed of serving to a guest. Now it's on the menus of Florence's trendier restaurants.
Pappa al pomodoro sounds like kid's food, and it is -- for kids of all ages. In the past it was also very much a homey dish, a tasty summer way to use up leftover bread that no housewife would have dreamed of serving to a guest. Now it's on the menus of Florence's trendier restaurants.
Tuscan Bread Salad -- Panzanella
Panzanella, like ribollita, is a solution to the problem of what to do with bread that has dried out and become too tough to chew. In the past, when people made bread once a week, it was more common than it is now, but it is still refreshing on hot summer days, and is perfect picnic food.
Panzanella, like ribollita, is a solution to the problem of what to do with bread that has dried out and become too tough to chew. In the past, when people made bread once a week, it was more common than it is now, but it is still refreshing on hot summer days, and is perfect picnic food.
Savory Farro Pie: Torta Salata di Farro
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
Cacciucco Viareggio Style -- Cacciucco alla Viareggina
Cacciucco Viareggio Style, or Cacciucco alla Viareggina: Cacciucco is a fish stew made from whatever the fishmonger has left over (or he fails to sell), and consequently requires a number of kinds of fish to succeed. It's also one of the classic poor people's dishes, the maritime equivalent of true peasant food, and like many of the peasant dishes made inland (ribollita comes to mind), it's so good that now everyone enjoys it regardless of social status.
Cacciucco Viareggio Style, or Cacciucco alla Viareggina: Cacciucco is a fish stew made from whatever the fishmonger has left over (or he fails to sell), and consequently requires a number of kinds of fish to succeed. It's also one of the classic poor people's dishes, the maritime equivalent of true peasant food, and like many of the peasant dishes made inland (ribollita comes to mind), it's so good that now everyone enjoys it regardless of social status.
Cacciucco alla Livornese
Cacciucco is a fish stew made in the Tuscan port of Livorno, from whatever the fishmonger has that's fresh and inexpensive. It should have a healthy jolt of red pepper, and will sell you on fish if you don't like fish already.
Cacciucco is a fish stew made in the Tuscan port of Livorno, from whatever the fishmonger has that's fresh and inexpensive. It should have a healthy jolt of red pepper, and will sell you on fish if you don't like fish already.
Lamb with Black Olives -- Agnello con le Olive Nere
Agnello con le Olive Nere -- -- Lamb with Black Olives
Agnello con le Olive Nere -- -- Lamb with Black Olives
Broiled Fennel -- Finocchi Gratinati
Broiled Fennel, or Finocchi Gratinati: These are the next step up from Elisabetta's grandmother's recipe, simple sautéed fennel smothered with béchamel sauce and slipped into the oven (or run under a broiler). It's a standard recipe; in addition to working well as a side dish, it is also a pleasing winter first course dish.
Broiled Fennel, or Finocchi Gratinati: These are the next step up from Elisabetta's grandmother's recipe, simple sautéed fennel smothered with béchamel sauce and slipped into the oven (or run under a broiler). It's a standard recipe; in addition to working well as a side dish, it is also a pleasing winter first course dish.
Garnished Meatballs -- Polpette Giuarnite
A Sienese recipe, this is true home cooking of the sort one would enjoy in a family meal, but probably wouldn't serve dinner guests unless they were also close friends. It's also a tasty way of dealing with boiled meat, one of the byproducts of making broth.
A Sienese recipe, this is true home cooking of the sort one would enjoy in a family meal, but probably wouldn't serve dinner guests unless they were also close friends. It's also a tasty way of dealing with boiled meat, one of the byproducts of making broth.
Beef Meatloaf -- Polpettone di Manzo
Though you might not consider meatloaf Italian, this is a classic Florentine dish.
Though you might not consider meatloaf Italian, this is a classic Florentine dish.
Florentine-Style Meatloaf made from Fresh Meat -- Polpettone di Carne Cruda Alla Fiorentina
Here's a recipe from Artusi that didn't make it into my translation of his book for want of space. The raw meat he calls for is as opposed to leftover roasted or boiled meat; in the days before refrigeration (he was writing in 1890) it was common practice to grind up leftover meat and make meatballs or meatloaf with it before it spoiled. This, made with raw meat, is a little more elegant, and could have been served to a family friend as well -- in other words, a guest one didn't need to impress.
Here's a recipe from Artusi that didn't make it into my translation of his book for want of space. The raw meat he calls for is as opposed to leftover roasted or boiled meat; in the days before refrigeration (he was writing in 1890) it was common practice to grind up leftover meat and make meatballs or meatloaf with it before it spoiled. This, made with raw meat, is a little more elegant, and could have been served to a family friend as well -- in other words, a guest one didn't need to impress.
Pork Spare Ribs -- Rosticciana
Pork Spare Ribs, or Rosticciana: It's hard to imagine a Tuscan arrosto misto (mixed roast meats, done over the coals) without these. The fire should be hot enough to cook them, but not so hot they burn at the outset. And they do require patience, but it's well worth it.
Pork Spare Ribs, or Rosticciana: It's hard to imagine a Tuscan arrosto misto (mixed roast meats, done over the coals) without these. The fire should be hot enough to cook them, but not so hot they burn at the outset. And they do require patience, but it's well worth it.
Roast Suckling Pig -- Maialino allo Spiedo
Roast Suckling Pig, or Maialino allo Spiedo: Every region of Italy has a recipe for suckling pig. This particular variation is done over the coals; it's Tuscan, and is perfect for a festive occasion. The recipe is hazy on the cooking time, because it will depend upon the fire, the fireplace, and the pig.
Roast Suckling Pig, or Maialino allo Spiedo: Every region of Italy has a recipe for suckling pig. This particular variation is done over the coals; it's Tuscan, and is perfect for a festive occasion. The recipe is hazy on the cooking time, because it will depend upon the fire, the fireplace, and the pig.
Roast Pork & Pork-Roasted Duck: Porchetta & Anatra in Porchetta
Porchetta is a roast pig, an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs. And also, a roast duck for smaller groups.
Porchetta is a roast pig, an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs. And also, a roast duck for smaller groups.
Grilled Pancetta -- Pancetta alla Griglia
Pancetta alla Griglia, or Grilled Pancetta: On an episode of La Vecchia Fattoria, one of RAI TV's cooking & gardening shows, Dario Cecchini, a butcher who express mails steaks all over the world from his shop in Panzano in Chianti (20 miles from Florence), showed how to grill fresh pancetta (pork fat back, available from a well stocked butcher or an oriental market). It looked quite good!
Pancetta alla Griglia, or Grilled Pancetta: On an episode of La Vecchia Fattoria, one of RAI TV's cooking & gardening shows, Dario Cecchini, a butcher who express mails steaks all over the world from his shop in Panzano in Chianti (20 miles from Florence), showed how to grill fresh pancetta (pork fat back, available from a well stocked butcher or an oriental market). It looked quite good!
Roast Pork & Pork-Roasted Duck: Porchetta & Anatra in Porchetta
Porchetta is a roast pig, an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs. And also, a roast duck for smaller groups.
Porchetta is a roast pig, an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs. And also, a roast duck for smaller groups.
Pork Loin Cooked in Milk -- Arista al Latte
Arista is the Tuscan name for pork roast, and is also applied to the cut of meat used to make pork roast, the loin with ribs attached. According to Artusi it derives from an ecumenical council held in Florence in 1430 to attempt to settle the differences between the Greek and Roman Churches, during which the Florentines served their guests roast pork loin seasoned with rosemary, salt, and pepper. The Greeks all began to exclaim, "Arista, arista! (good, good!)" and the name stuck.
Arista is the Tuscan name for pork roast, and is also applied to the cut of meat used to make pork roast, the loin with ribs attached. According to Artusi it derives from an ecumenical council held in Florence in 1430 to attempt to settle the differences between the Greek and Roman Churches, during which the Florentines served their guests roast pork loin seasoned with rosemary, salt, and pepper. The Greeks all began to exclaim, "Arista, arista! (good, good!)" and the name stuck.
Fagioli all'Uccelletto with Sausages
Tomatoey garlicky beans and sausages are an inspired combination.
Tomatoey garlicky beans and sausages are an inspired combination.
Jailhouse Meat: Carne da Galera
Pork shoulder butt stewed with herbs and vineagr: A classic dish from the days before refrigeration, and very tasty now too.
Pork shoulder butt stewed with herbs and vineagr: A classic dish from the days before refrigeration, and very tasty now too.
Sausages of Lucca: Salsicce di Lucca
How to make (and cook) classic Tuscan sausages.
How to make (and cook) classic Tuscan sausages.
Tuscan Tomato Sauce, Pomarola
There's no dish quite so refreshing on a hot day as a bowl of pasta seasoned with lots of freshly made pomarola and a handful of grated cheese. This recipe expands well, and most households make gallons of it when the flood of tomatoes reaches its peak in August, forcing the prices down. It can also be adapted to canned plum tomatoes.
There's no dish quite so refreshing on a hot day as a bowl of pasta seasoned with lots of freshly made pomarola and a handful of grated cheese. This recipe expands well, and most households make gallons of it when the flood of tomatoes reaches its peak in August, forcing the prices down. It can also be adapted to canned plum tomatoes.
Marinated Hare Prepared Following the Method of the Hunters of Cardoso
Cardoso is a town in the overlooking Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa. The recipe calls for hare, but will also work well with other furred game that requires marinating to draw out the gaminess, for example wild boar, or venison.
Cardoso is a town in the overlooking Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of Pisa. The recipe calls for hare, but will also work well with other furred game that requires marinating to draw out the gaminess, for example wild boar, or venison.
Stuffed Boned Rabbit -- Coniglio Disossato Ripieno
Stuffed Boned Rabbit, or Coniglio Disossato Ripieno: Stuffed rabbit is a classic for Sunday dinner. This particular recipe is a little more complex than some, and comes from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of the mouth of the Arno River.
Stuffed Boned Rabbit, or Coniglio Disossato Ripieno: Stuffed rabbit is a classic for Sunday dinner. This particular recipe is a little more complex than some, and comes from Versilia, the Tuscan coastal plain north of the mouth of the Arno River.
Rabbit with Pine Nuts & Black Olives -- Coniglio con Pinoli e Olive Nere
Rabbit with Pine Nuts & Black Olives, or Coniglio con Pinoli e Olive Nere: Anna Maria posted this a couple of years ago on It.Hobby Cucina, the Italian equivalent of the Rec.Foods.Cooking newsgroup; she notes it's from her home town of Groppo di Treseana in Lunigiana (Tuscany's province of Massa, inland) and that it was a Sunday dish her grandmother used to make when she was little.
Rabbit with Pine Nuts & Black Olives, or Coniglio con Pinoli e Olive Nere: Anna Maria posted this a couple of years ago on It.Hobby Cucina, the Italian equivalent of the Rec.Foods.Cooking newsgroup; she notes it's from her home town of Groppo di Treseana in Lunigiana (Tuscany's province of Massa, inland) and that it was a Sunday dish her grandmother used to make when she was little.
Stewed Rabbit -- Coniglio in Umido
Stewed Rabbit, or Coniglio in Umido: Versilia, being a coastal plain, has lots of fish recipes. However, as is true for almost anywhere else in Italy, it's full of rabbit hutches -- they're easy to raise, prolific, and their meat is both lean and tasty.
Stewed Rabbit, or Coniglio in Umido: Versilia, being a coastal plain, has lots of fish recipes. However, as is true for almost anywhere else in Italy, it's full of rabbit hutches -- they're easy to raise, prolific, and their meat is both lean and tasty.
Graziella's Stuffed Rabbit
The arrival at the coast was occasion for wonderment of many kinds -- the joy of diving into bracingly cool water, and also of enjoying boned stuffed rabbit afterwards. This is my mother-in-law's recipe, which will also work well with boned chicken, and (we think) with turkey breast. In summer it's excellent served cool, whereas it's nice hot when it's cold outside. To serve 4-6, you'll need:
The arrival at the coast was occasion for wonderment of many kinds -- the joy of diving into bracingly cool water, and also of enjoying boned stuffed rabbit afterwards. This is my mother-in-law's recipe, which will also work well with boned chicken, and (we think) with turkey breast. In summer it's excellent served cool, whereas it's nice hot when it's cold outside. To serve 4-6, you'll need:
Tordelli
Tordelli are stuffed pasta with a meat-based filling, and are to the Apuans what maccheroni might be to a Neapolitan. In other words, a signature dish that everyone makes and ever restaurant has on the menu. As is usually the case when a dish enters the local psyche, there are innumerable variations.
Tordelli are stuffed pasta with a meat-based filling, and are to the Apuans what maccheroni might be to a Neapolitan. In other words, a signature dish that everyone makes and ever restaurant has on the menu. As is usually the case when a dish enters the local psyche, there are innumerable variations.
Potato Tortelli -- Tortelli di Patata
Tortelli di Patata, stuffed pasta with a potato based filling, are the high point of many a sagra and country fair. According to a friend who owned a pasta factory, they must be made by hand to come out right, because the dough of the sheet is too thick for machines. It’s worth the effort.
Tortelli di Patata, stuffed pasta with a potato based filling, are the high point of many a sagra and country fair. According to a friend who owned a pasta factory, they must be made by hand to come out right, because the dough of the sheet is too thick for machines. It’s worth the effort.
Stewed Boar -- Cinghiale in Umido
Stewed Boar, or Cinghiale in Umido: Tuscany is crawling with boar, and the Apuans are no exception; this recipe is from the mountains overlooking the coastal plain to the west of Lucca. You'll need well aged meat to do it justice; either ask your butcher to age it for you, or keep the meat in your refrigerator, covered, for several days after you get it home.
Stewed Boar, or Cinghiale in Umido: Tuscany is crawling with boar, and the Apuans are no exception; this recipe is from the mountains overlooking the coastal plain to the west of Lucca. You'll need well aged meat to do it justice; either ask your butcher to age it for you, or keep the meat in your refrigerator, covered, for several days after you get it home.
Savory Farro Pie: Torta Salata di Farro
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
A savory cheesecake made with ricotta and farro.
Duck with Olive Leaves -- Anatra Muta alle Foglie d'Olivo
This is an old recipe from Versilia, the coastal Tuscan plain north of the Arno River. It calls for sprigs of olive leaves, which will add a pleasant touch but aren't an absolute requirement.
This is an old recipe from Versilia, the coastal Tuscan plain north of the Arno River. It calls for sprigs of olive leaves, which will add a pleasant touch but aren't an absolute requirement.
Pigeons Florentine Style -- Piccioni alla Fiorentina
Pigeons Florentine Style, or Piccioni alla Fiorentina: Whenever I've encountered these they've been simply piccioni allo spiedo, spit-roasted pigeons. Perhaps because I live in Tuscany. In any case, the technique will work with any small birds, and is delicious.
Pigeons Florentine Style, or Piccioni alla Fiorentina: Whenever I've encountered these they've been simply piccioni allo spiedo, spit-roasted pigeons. Perhaps because I live in Tuscany. In any case, the technique will work with any small birds, and is delicious.
Stuffed neck of Locio -- Collo di Locio Ripieno
Stuffed neck of Locio, or Collo di Locio Ripieno: ...Donatella Cinelli Colombini owes her belief in the importance of wine travel to when she was a teenager, and would greet customers who came to the family estate on weekends, when nobody lese was around. In addition to making wine and promoting wine tourism, she's an accomplished cook whose recipes have appeared in a number of cookbooks, including Aldo Santini's La Cucina Maremmana.
Stuffed neck of Locio, or Collo di Locio Ripieno: ...Donatella Cinelli Colombini owes her belief in the importance of wine travel to when she was a teenager, and would greet customers who came to the family estate on weekends, when nobody lese was around. In addition to making wine and promoting wine tourism, she's an accomplished cook whose recipes have appeared in a number of cookbooks, including Aldo Santini's La Cucina Maremmana.
A Rustic Peperonata -- Peperonata Rustica
A Rustic Peperonata, or Peperonata Rustica: Peperonata is stewed peppers, and there are innumerable variations on the theme. This particular one id from the Pianura della Versilia, the coastal plain north of Pisa.
A Rustic Peperonata, or Peperonata Rustica: Peperonata is stewed peppers, and there are innumerable variations on the theme. This particular one id from the Pianura della Versilia, the coastal plain north of Pisa.
Chilled Eggplant -- Melanzane Fredde
Chilled Eggplant, or Melanzane Fredde: This is an unusual, but tasty recipe from Versilia, on the Tuscan coast. It could work as either an antipasto, or a side dish.
Chilled Eggplant, or Melanzane Fredde: This is an unusual, but tasty recipe from Versilia, on the Tuscan coast. It could work as either an antipasto, or a side dish.