This year the Chianti Rufina Consorzio presented the 2010 Chianti Rufina d'Annata, or vintage wine, and the 2009 Chianti Rufina Rieserva, which is as a rule more substantial and better suited for aging than the vintage wine. Here you'll find the wines that most impressed me, ordered by score.
Chianti Rufina, you wonder?
It's one of the smaller, and by far the most mountainous of the various Chianti subzones, and because the vineyards are at higher elevations, with strong day-night temperature excursions, tends to yield wines that have richer, more complex bouquets, lively acidities that make for good aging capacity, and steely deft tannins that make for good structure but are not blocky.
In terms of quality good Chianti Rufina can easily match both Chianti Classico and Montalcino, and can become spellbinding with time. I am not saying not to drink it now, but if you buy a case (especially of a Riserva), set a couple of bottles aside, on their sides in a cool dark place. 5-10 years from now you'll be very happy you did.
Chianti Rufina, you wonder?
It's one of the smaller, and by far the most mountainous of the various Chianti subzones, and because the vineyards are at higher elevations, with strong day-night temperature excursions, tends to yield wines that have richer, more complex bouquets, lively acidities that make for good aging capacity, and steely deft tannins that make for good structure but are not blocky.
In terms of quality good Chianti Rufina can easily match both Chianti Classico and Montalcino, and can become spellbinding with time. I am not saying not to drink it now, but if you buy a case (especially of a Riserva), set a couple of bottles aside, on their sides in a cool dark place. 5-10 years from now you'll be very happy you did.
Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit that are surprisingly fresh for a Riserva, supported by spice and some delicate slightly mentholated acidity. Interesting and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish with berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will with time display considerable finesse and elegance -- it has the latter down already, though it will increase, and is working on the former.Score: 88-90
Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is rich, with fresh cherry fruit, brambles, dusky bitterness, graphite shavings, some violets, and black pepper spice; it's quite fresh with nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and fairly rich brambly acidity that flows into a clean spicy bitter tannic finish. Freshness and finesse in a glass, and worth seeking out.Score: 88-90
Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense and quote mineral, with spicy minerality supporting rather dusky cherry fruit that has slight sweetish jammy accents, and a degree of alcohol that also contributes sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright strawberry laced berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and though it is still coming together, especially on the nose, it will go places, and display considerable finesse when it has arrived.Score: 88-90
Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Elegant deep slightly orange cherry with some almandine in rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and also by considerable bramble; it's quite elegant in an austere key. On the palate it's full and smooth with dusky sour cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness and sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that have a warm dusky burr with some cedar bitterness, and flow into considerable warmth. Very young but pleasant, and will do quite interesting things with time.Score: 88
Podere il Pozzo Vigna Vecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with floral accents mingled with vanilla and supported by ripe berry fruit and some peppery spice; nice depth and elegance in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and slight sweetish jammy accents and slight greenish notes, while the tannins are warm and still quite young, with a blockiness that will fade with time as the wine ages and the tannins smooth. I'd give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for at least 10 years, perhaps more.Score: 87
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young but elegant in a fruit driven key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly splintery sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish Quite pleasant, and though it needs another couple of years to come together, and will display considerable finesse when the various components have fully melded.Score: 86-8
Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some greenish brambles, slight leaf tobacco and some minerality. Elegant in traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with bright strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly rich flowing into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well.Score: 86-8
Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry with black reflections paling in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry fruit supported bys some cedar and spice, and moderate sweetness that's also alcohol, with some underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, with some greenish brambly accents. Pleasant in a traditional key, and displays a degree of finesse that will likely increase with time. It grew upon me.Score: 86-7
Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending overtones orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with greenish spice and some hints of paint thinner, and also a dusky cedary underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with warm sour cherry fruit that has some greenish acidity and is supported by tannins with a greenish cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly long clean rather green finish with lasting warmth. It needs a couple of years to come together, and it will be worth waiting for, in a rather ingratiating key when it arrives. The style is fairly international, though it does also have the acidity and tannic structure typical of Rufina.Score: 86
Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry with black and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish acidity and bouquet tannins that are fairly strong with a bright youthful burr; it's very young but has nice balance in a solid muscular key and will also age nicely for a number of years.Score: 85-6
