Italian Food: Most Popular Articles
Natale con i tuoi, la Pasqua con chi vuoi -- "Christmas at home and Easter with whomever you wish"is
Anthony Iannacone is an old fried with whom I have corresponded for years. His family is from Campania,
Neapolitan Cuisine has many dishes identified with one festival or another, which in the past were made only then: le lasagne del Carnevale, for Carnival, struffoli at Christmas, and a several Easter pastries, the most important of which is the Pastiera, a centuries-old dish that appears in innumerable versions, each made according to a closely guarded family recipe...
Italy has many traditional pizza toppings, for example the quattro stagioni, which I have never come across in pizzerias elsewhere. Here's a quick rundown. Page 3.
Pane di Pasqua, or Easter Bread: There are many variations on the theme of Easter Bread. This one is, according to Luisa, who posted it to a recipe collection on Galactica.it, either Neapolitan of from the Neapolitan hinterland. The quantities are somewhat more aproximate than one finds in professionally written recipes; I'd figure a quarter pound in all of pancetta and ham (100 g in all), about a quarter pound (100 g) of olives, and a quarter cup of capers.
Making a good risotto is rather like riding a bicycle: It takes a little bit of practice to begin with, and a certain amount of concentration thereafter. But making risotto is easy, and quite satisfying
A quick and easy Italian recipe for sauteed spinach with pine nuts.
Recipe for Bacio Brownies from Viola Buitoni of the Perugina chocolate family.
Cooking pasta is easy, but there are rules to pasta cooking that will lead to perfectly cooked pasta every time.
Aiana kindly writes: Are you ready? It's a tradition. It goes by many names but it's definitely an Easter Tradition. It's called Pizza Rustica,Pizza gain, Meat pie. It's contents differs from Family to Family . While it has spilled over into other Regions, It originated in Naples. This is my mother Mildred's Recipe.
Baccalà is salt cod sold by the slab, and you might think it an unlikely food to get excited over. But you'd be wrong, because well-cooked baccalà is a delight: Firm, slightly chewy, and not at all fishy in flavor. But very good, and easy to prepare too.
Artichokes and potatoes are a fine combination, and there are many different renditions of it. In this case, they're sautéed.
Rome is known for kid and suckling lamb, and this is perhaps the most Roman way to prepare kid or suckling lamb. Rome in the kitchen!
Many in the English-speaking world would call this a Porterhouse and wonder what the fuss is about. And they'd be right in most cases; though Bistecca alla Fiorentina is featured prominently on the menus of almost all the restaurants in Florence, finding a good one isn't at all easy. But when you do it's heaven on earth, delightfully rich, flavorful rare meat so tender it can be cut with a spoon. Much of the secret is the breed of cattle, Chianina beef...
Trancia di Pesce Spada: Swordfish Steaks, and a simple Sicilian recipe for grilled swordfish steaks. Page 59.
How to Boil Octopus so as to make it Tender, or Lessatura del Polpo per Ridurlo Tenero: Octopus is delightful, but it can be devilish to cook, going from soft and tender to rubbery and back as it sits in the pot; the trick is to either remove it before it goes rubbery or have the patience to wait until it passes through that phase. Here's a trick for boiling it that will yield tender octopus every time.
The dish more people probably associate with Sicily than any other is caponata, a (generally) eggplanty delight that has now spread throughout the Peninsula -- a zesty summer dish that's ideal for perking up an indolent appetite on a hot day.
Recipe requests vary with the time of year. Before Christmas it's the Seven Fishes, and come spring people ask for Easter breads of one sort or another. These are not the standard breads one buys day-to-day in Italian bakeries, but rather something more: Breads that contain cheese, breads that contain sausage or salami, breads that contain hard-boiled eggs...
In addition to being fine snacks, these golden filled rice balls make excellent antipasti at parties, and if you make several small batches with different fillings they'll work very well with other fried foods as part of a fritto misto (mixed fried foods). Or you may want a lighter meal, and just serve them with a tossed salad.
Pasta ai Quattro Formaggi, or Four Cheese Sauce for Pasta: I was recently asked for a four cheeses sauce for pasta. Here are a couple variations on four cheese sauce.
La Pasqua Napoletana Pasca vo' 'a menestrella mmaretata cu 'a gallenella, 'a 'nnoglia e 'e saciccielle,
Polenta is easy to make, and the home made variety does taste better than what you can buy in a store. Never made it? Here's how. Page 2.
Almost every region of Italy has some form of stuffed pasta. A quick overview and many recipes.
Pasta need not be pale yellow or cream colored. If you add puréed vegetables, chocolate, or other ingredients to your dough you can obtain a wide range of delightful hues. Here we have green, orange, black, red, brown,and speckled. Page 2.
Farro: Grain of the Legions Grano Farro has a long and glorious history: it is the original grain from
Though slow-cooking pomarola is quite tasty, there are times you'll want something quicker -- that's when this classic Neapolitan tomato sauce, known in the US as Marinara Sauce, comes into play. It's perfect for pasta, but will also work well with rice or pizza.
Making pasta at home takes effort, but can be lots of fun.
Olive oil is quite healthy: It lowers bad cholesterol, has antioxidants that can prevent cancer and improve organ function, and may even protect from age-related dementia. In short, a food that could be sold in the pharmacy.
Larry asked, much too long ago, if I had a recipe for sopressata. Like many other Italian words, sopressata's meaning varies considerably from place to place. In much of the Peninsula it's a raw, pork-based salami that's been squashed slightly during the curing phase and is thus flat; the spicing varies from place to place according to local tradition. In Tuscany, on the other hand...
Pasta: Sauce or Gravy? Or Ragú? No matter what you call it, it's satisfying.
Squid ink is just what it sounds like -- the ink of the squid, and it adds both a sea tang and a deep black glow to this recipe. You will likely have to go to a fishmonger who has very fresh fish to obtain it, but it's worth the trip.
It's not hard to make pizza dough: start with top quality ingredients and you'll be fine. If you use a bread machine to make the dough it will be much quicker to make. Page 2.
Lent is the 40 days before Easter, and is designated by the Catholic Church as a period of spiritual renewal, a time to prepare to celebrate Christ's resurrection. Contrary to popular opinion it's not a time of penance, but the Church does ask that people avoid meats out of respect for Jesus's sacrifice on the Cross, and to share the hardships of the poor. This is not to say one must go hungry; fish are allowed, as are vegetables and eggs, and there are many options to choose from.
Lambrusco is the perfect wine for a picnic, cookout, or light meal.
Arrabbiata means angry, and if made right this pasta is spicy. Though the versions offered by the really cheap eateries in Rome rely primarily on garlic and hot pepper for their punch, some of the versions printed in cookbooks also call for onions.
Lasagna is as regional as everything else in Italian cooking. If you ask for it in Emilia Romagna or Tuscany, you'll get lasagna alla bolognese: pasta smothered with Bolognese sauce, béchamel sauce, and lots of grated cheese. In short, classic winter comfort food.
Mushroom risotto is wonderful, especially in the fall when the mushrooms are freshly dried.
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Josephine Caravetta's Pickled Eggplant: Anne has very kindly replied to another person's request with her Grandmother's pickled eggplant.
Pasta with smoked salmon is one of the standard Italian Valentine’s Day recipes (the versions printed are often aimed at men). This particular pasta with smoked salmon recipe is based on a dish of pasta I enjoyed many years ago at Il Pantheon, a restaurant in Rome.
Northern Italy comprises eight regions: Liguria, Valle D'Aosta, Piemonte, Lombardia, Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto, Friuli Venezia-Giulia, and Emilia Romagna. Quick overviews of the cuisines, and links to regional recipes.
Crema pasticcera, pastry cream, is one of the basic ingredients used in Italian pastries and cakes: it's the creamy custardy filling of the layer cake, or the cream you find in your morning pastry, or the creamy base of your pudding. In short, Italian desserts wouldn't be quite the same without it.
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Almost every Italian city and town has its specialties, and there are regional trends too; the end result is a huge number of local cuisines rather than a single national cuisine. However, there are some dishes that you will find almost everywhere, and that are now standards among the many Italian communities scattered across the globe. Enjoy!
Orecchiette Orecchiette are a distinctive Puglian type of pasta shaped roughly like small ears, hence
When temperatures fall off, few things are as warming and heartening as a steaming pot of polenta accompanied by a rich stew and a full bodied red wine. Here are some of the dishes I especially enjoy serving with polenta.
Italians prepare artichokes by stripping away the outer leaves to reveal the tender inner leaves surrounding the artichoke's heart. It's an easy preparation that opens the doors to many dishes.
Home-Made Ricotta Though ricotta is often referred to as a cheese, it is actually a cheese byproduct,
Spaghetti Aio Oio, with garlic and olive oil, is the one dish that all Italian men know how to make. It's also quite popular as a late night snack among friends, say after a night out at the theater.
Recipe for Sicilian-style stuffed eggplants (melanzane a barchetta).
Funghi Porcini "Every year come September, the price of mushrooms drops and I stock up on porcini," wrote
Pesto Sauce is a classic garlicky basil sauce from Liguria. Pesto sauce is also one of one of the finest summer pasta sauces.
Roman Easter recipes: italian cold cuts buona pasqua roman recipes pickled vegetables easter recipes
DOC, VdT, DOCG: What does it mean? Reading an Italian label is usually straight forward: there's the
Carciofi alla giudia, Rome's Jewish fried artichokes, are a wonderful treat: they look like golden sunflowers and their leaves have a delicious nutty crunchiness.
Steak with a tasty, zesty, tomatoey pizzaiola sauce, which Don kindly posted to the Italian cuisine forum.
Minestra di Pasqua, or Neapolitan Easter Soup, is the traditional beginning of the Neapolitan Easter meal. This recipe is after Cavalcanti, the great Neapolitan gastronome of the mid-1800s.
Crespelle are the Italian equivalent of crepes. Though the preparation now has a certain ring of elegance to it, and crespelle appear often on upscale menus, in the past crespelle were considered poor people's food.
Cavolo nero, black leaf kale, is a leafy cabbage that doesn't form heads, but rather resembles palm fronds, with deep greenish black leaves that can be up to a yard (a meter) long, have pronounced ribs, and whose surfaces have a distinctive bubbly appearance. It's quite tasty and perfect in hearty soups or over (or in) polenta.
Asparagus risotto is especially good in June, when asparagus is at its freshest. Most Italians use green asparagus, but if you have white asparagus, it is nice too.
Italian Regional Cuisines North Italian Cuisines | Central Italian Cuisines South Italian Cuisines |
Dino Romano recently took me to task for linking to a modern Italian (in Italian) marinara sauce recipe that took liberties he was right to object to, saying: "Even Neapolitans, known for some departures when it comes to plain tomato sauce, wouldn't use parsley and oregano AND onion mixed with garlic in a sauce." Here is his marinara sauce recipe. Actually, two marinara sauces, one with whole tomatoes and the other with pureed tomatoes.
To use a wood-fired pizza oven you must have two things: A hot oven and pizza dough (toppings aren't essential, as there are also focaccia and other flat breads). We'll begin with the dough. Page 2.
Milano's classic Christmas Cake!: christmas desserts purpose flour panettone italianfood panet
Making Vinegar From Wine If you make wine (as oppesed to apple) vinegar, you can dispense with the apples
This is one of the most classic Sicilian cakes, and though some people link it to the island's Arab period because of the candied fruit that goes into the ricotta cream, among other things, it's actually much older: The word Cassata derives from the Latin Caseus, which means cheese. In other words, Cassata is one of the world's first cheesecakes. It comes as no surprise that there are a great many variations throughout Sicily; this particular recipe is from Trapani.
Southern Italy comprises 6 regions: Abruzzo, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise and Puglia. Quick overviews of the cuisines, and links to recipes.
Pizza is constantly evolving, with new flavor combinations, and delightful reinterpretations of the classic recipes. In short, there's a lot going on. Here's a quick selection of modern Italian pizza recipes that you can either enjoy or build upon. Page 4.
Bruschetta is one of the simplest things in the world to make, and can be very satisfying if you have good extravirgin olive oil.
There are a great many kinds of pasta in Italy. Here's an expanding list of the most popular kinds, with suggested recipes, possible substitutions, and alternate names for them.
Agnellini Pasquali: Sicilian Easter Marzipan Lambs.
Torta alla Pasqualina & Torta di Cipolle, Onion Pie: Turning to recipes, a long while back Anna requested a Ligurian Torta Pasqualina. Pasqua means Easter, which means we're out of season, but the recipe does offer an excuse for an interesting digression: it calls for a dozen eggs. While this might strike a modern reader as reason to wonder about cholesterol levels...
Giardiniera, or mixed pickled vegetables, is what most Italians think of when they hear the words Sotto Aceti, a collection of mixed pickled vegetables. The standard Italian antipasto misto wouldn't be quite right without these, and they also work very well with boiled meats in the winter months.
A Savory Neapolitan Easter Bread: Cristina writes, "I have been making an Easter Bread from Naples called
Italy has a very long Jewish tradition, and as you might expect, the Italian Seder differs in some ways from the Ashkenazi Seder. Page 2.
How to Dry Orange or Lemon Peel at Home: It's quite easy.
Cappelletti The word cappelletto means little hat, which is what this pasta should resemble; they're
Eggplant Parmesan, or Melanzane alla Parmigiana, is one of the great Neapolitan dishes that has spread across the globe. Eggplant Parmesan is a superb Neapolitan combination of tomatoes, eggplant, and cheese.
People rarely associate Judaism with Italy, probably because Rome has hosted the seat of the Catholic Church for close to 2000 years. Jews arrived long before Peter and Paul, however. Indeed, Jewish traders built one of the first (if not the first) synagogues outside of the Middle East in Ostia Antica during the second century BC. Much was alas lost in WWII, but Italian Jewish communities are slowly rebuilding, and maintaining the traditions, which differ in many ways from the Ashkenazim.
Culatello, the most prized cold cut of Parma. Page 36.
Bucatini all'Amatriciana: This zesty pancetta and tomato sauce is commonly associated with Lazio and Rome, but is actually from the town of Amatrice, a part of the Abruzzo before Mussolini redrew the maps.
Risi e bisi (rice and peas) is a classic Venetian dish. In the past it was prepared only on the feast days decreed by the Doge (Venice's ruler), and though one can now prepare risi e bisi at any time, the dish really shines only when freshly harvested baby peas are available.
You may grow old, even doddering, but if you know how to make a good meat sauce for pasta people will still beat a path to your door.
Pasta need not be pale yellow or cream colored. If you add puréed vegetables, chocolate, or other ingredients to your dough you can obtain a wide range of delightful hues. Here we have several kinds of tan, purple, and embossed, which is quite elegant. Page 3.
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Come spring, Italian markets fill with strawberries. While one can simply hull them and enjoy them, one can also do other things with strawberries, and this strawberry pudding is very tasty and very easy.
Frutta e Verdura: Photos of Italian fruit and vegetables, from local produce markets.
Brasato al Barolo, beef braised in Barolo wine, is one of the classic, elegant Piemontese dishes, and really does require a hearty red wine, ideally Barolo, to come out right. Save it for a special occasion, and you'll be quite pleased with the results.
Saltimbocca is one of the most classic Roman dishes. The name literally translates as hopinthemouth and is singularly appropriate -- you can never have too many of these veal cutlets with prosciutto and sage.
2 very different pies made with ricotta. But both tasty
Some say Tiramisu was invented in Siena, in the late 1600s, to satisfy Grand Duke Cosimo's sweet tooth, and that it subsequently became a hit with the courtesans. Others say it was invented much later by a restaurant next door to a House of Ill Repute in Treviso, and became popular in the 70s. Who's right?
Spaghetti alla Carbonara is breathtakingly simple: Eggs, mixed into cooked, crumbled pancetta and stirred into pasta, whose heat cooks them. Very tasty and very simple.
Recipe requests come in waves. In winter, people write for instructions on making cold cuts from pork: Salami, prosciutto, salsiccia, finocchiona, pancetta, and so on, which are collectively referred to as salumi. In the past these were all made when hogs were butchered in late fall or early winter, and set aside to guarantee a supply of meat during the warmer months when uncured meats would spoil rapidly.
Leaonard's version of a Roman classic: veal saltimbocca dry white wine veal chops extra virgin olive oil virgin olive oil
Lasagna with Ricotta: When I was growing up, I was always rather taken back by the ricotta that I found in lasagna in the US -- there wasn't any in what I had in Tuscany. This is because putting ricotta in lasagna is southern tradition that reaches its apex with the glorious Neapolitan Lasagne con la Ricotta that are made for Carnival...
Cannoli Carnival, otherwise known as Martedì Grasso (Mardigras), means different things in different
Step by step instructions for making crema pasticcera, or pastry cream, one of the basic ingredients used in Italian and French pastries and cakes.
A Ciambella Romagnola, Romagna's traditional ring cake, is wonderful for breakfast, dipped into warm milk or caffè latte. It's also quite nice at the end of a meal, either with a glass of dessert wine or with the slices drizzled with zabaione or a fruit sauce or glaze.
Lemon Ice: Aggie, who has kindly shared several recipes, says: "This is a Lemon Ice recipe from a friend
Millefoglie, which the French call Mille-Feuille, is one of the most delightful cakes around: Flaky puff pastry interlayered with rich crema chantilly (or chocolate, or both). Libidenous! Wonderful! The perfect birthday cake!
The perfect way to start the day!: breakfast pastry grated zest teaspoon vanilla unleaded gasoline butter or margarine
One of the most spectacular ways of serving pasta is al cartoccio -- boiled, sauced, then wrapped in paper and baked. As a preparation method this may sound odd, but your guests will greet the arrival of the packets at the table with mounting anticipation that will turn to joy as they open them and savor the aromas that burst forth.
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Quattro Stagioni means... Pizza? Dateline: 04/26/97 Pizza isn't exactly Tuscan, but it is popular, and
Pere Abate, Abate Pears: The Abate pear derives its name from Abbé Fetel, the French Abbot who developed the cultivar in 1866, and outside of Italy you may also find it called the Fetel pear or the Abbe Fetel. In Italy, it has proven ideally suited to the orchards of Emilia Romagna, and much of the Italian Pera Abate crop comes from this region. Page 66.
Easy, delicious and elegant -- who could ask for more? From your Mining Co. Guide
Pecorino Roamno is an anciant cheese, enjoyed by the Romans and still very popular even now.
Branzino, or European Sea Bass. In England it's simply called bass. Also, a recipe for Filetti Di Branzino in Crosta di Patate - Sea Bass Fillets in a Mashed Potato Crust. Page 13.
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La Crostata When I was growing up, my father directed the excavation of an Etruscan sanctuary on a hill
Italian recipe for a green springtime pasta salad (Insalata di pasta al verde).
Bresaola, the air-cured beef of the Valtellina, is now available in the US! About it, and serving suggestions.
Polenta, the Italian answer to cornmeal mush, is tasty, extremely versatile, and an ideal accompaniment to all sorts of things. Though it can be bought ready-made, purists are correct in saying that what one makes at home is better. In short, how to make polenta.
Lasagna is a huge and varied universe. This lasagna with mozzarella recipe is easy, quick to put together, and also quick to cook if you use sheets of lasagna that need not be preboiled.
Bresaola: cured beef from the Valtellina. Page 2.
According to Pellegrino Artusi, a good béchamel sauce, also known as white sauce, and a properly cooked meat sauce are the principal secrets of refined cooking.
Torta di Riso, or Rice Pie: a torta di riso is one of the quintessential simple north Italian desserts, and is also a wonderful way of dealing with a carton of milk that has reached its use-by date but is still good.
This recipe for baked Royal Dorade (or bass) was kindly given me by Prince Philippe Poniatowski, who makes superb Vouvray at Le Clos Baudoin.
Spaghetti with clams is the quintessential summer dish, and is amazingly refreshing on a hot day. Though you can use canned shellfish packed in their juice to make spaghetti alle vongole, live clams are far better. I prefer them in a white (tomato free) sauce because I find that tomatoes overshadow the flavor of the clams.
Pappardelle alla Boscaiola: Pasta with a mushroom sauce is one of the most common Italian restaurant dishes, and you will encounter it throughout the Peninsula. This recipe calls for porcini, boletus edilis, and they are necessary to do it justice. Ideally, fresh porcini, but if you cannot find them you will have to make do: Purchase cultivated mushrooms and a 20-gram (1-ounce) packet of dried porcini...
A Sformato is similar to a soufflé, though not as airy. Sformati are amazingly versatile, ranging from hearty comfort food to light vegetarian delights to tasty desserts.
Stracciatella is a Roman egg-drop soup with a little cheese, and is quite refreshing.
Schiacciata alla Fiorentina is a traditional orangy Florentine Easter cake. It's wonderful filled with whipped cream, crema pasticcera, or or chantilly.
Bulb fennel is one of the great treats of winter.: bulb fennel anise oil de agostini winter vegetables raw vegetables
Breaded Cod Fillets, or Merluzzo Impanato: These breaded cod filets are easy to do, and surprisingly tasty too.
This is actually a rich, cheesy bread, rather than a pie, and a delight with salami and a good zesty red wine.
La Piadina, Romagna's flatbread, is extremely popular. Little wonder; it's tasty to bite into, wonderful when spread with cheese, and it's easy to make!
When I was quite little my father worked on an excavation in Sicily, and Spaghetti alla Norma, spaghetti with rich, sensual tomatoey eggplant sauce, is one of the earliest dishes I remember. The Norma in question is Vincenzo Bellini's heroine, and the dish certainly does her justice.
Kit Cat wrote, "I am seeking the recipe for Cassadetti (I may not be spelling it correctly). It is a
This no-fail potato gnocchi recipe comes from Leatrice, who writes, I thought I'd send you a no-fail
La Piadina, Romagna's flatbread, is extremely popular. Little wonder; it's tasty to bite into, wonderful when spread with cheese, an excellent foil for cold cuts, and (when folded) perfect for containing all sorts of things, for example grilled sausages and onions. In other words, it's an excellent cookout bread. And it's easy to make!
Though the Italian Mostarda does contain mustard, it's only distantly related to the yellow stuff in the squeeze bottle. Rather, it's fruit preserved in syrup that gains quite a kick from a healthy jolt of powdered mustard seed or essence, and is one of the standard condiments served with boiled meats in northern Italy. It's easy to make at home, and also makes an excellent gift.
Insalata Caprese is a simple summer salad made with tomatoes, mozzarella olive oil, and basil: Food fit for a king!
Gnocchi, Potato and Otherwise: Gnocchi are little dumplings, and though gocchi di patata -- potato gnocchi -- are the best known, there are many other tasty varieties of gnocchi.
Zeppole -- Fritters for Saint Joseph's Day From Cosa Bolle in Pentola , the newsletter: One of the disadvantages
This is a south Italian sauce for grilled meats; the word salmoriglio derives from the Sicilian salmurigghiu, which means a light brine, and there is, indeed, some salt in it, though the primary ingredient is lemon juice. You use the sauce to flavor any sort of grilled meat or fish, from chops (lamb, pork, or steak) through elegant fish, including salmon or swordfish. In short, it's versatile.
There's no dish quite so refreshing on a hot day as a bowl of pasta seasoned with lots of freshly made pomarola (Marinara in the US) and a handful of grated cheese. This recipe expands well, and most households make gallons of it when the flood of tomatoes reaches its peak in August, forcing the prices down. It can also be adapted to canned plum tomatoes.
Crespelle, as one might guess, is the Italian word for crepes, and they go back a very long ways. They also look beautiful, and are quite easy to make, once you have the hang of it, and are therefore the sort of thing that people will think you have gone to great deal more effort to make than you have. In short, Florentine baked crepes are the perfect beginning to a Sunday dinner or holiday meal, or something to serve company.
Cacciucco is a fish stew made in the Tuscan port of Livorno, from whatever the fishmonger has that's fresh and inexpensive. It should have a healthy jolt of red pepper, and will sell you on fish if you don't like fish already.
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Mostarda is a classic North Italian fruit condiment that gains a healthy kick from powdered mustard or mustard essence. It's wonderful with boiled meats, or cheeses, and is quite easy to make. It's also an excellent gift.
Vitello tonnato, chilled veal in a tuna sauce, is one of the classic summer dishes, and is the traditional centerpiece of the Ferragosto dinner in Milano.
Pasta comes in an astonishing variety of shapes, some of which are common throughout Italy, and some of which are limited to a particular region, or even town. There are also specialty shapes produced by individual pasta makers.
Tripe's origins are humble, but it can be quite elegant
A delicate cream sauce with a pleasing blush from tomatoes, and all over pasta or potato gnocchi: A handy recipe for when you're in a rush, or if unexpected company stops in.
Stoccafisso: Stock Fish, or Dried Cod. Page 60.
The trick to spit-roasting kid or lamb is to take your time: You'll obtain extraordinarily tender roast kid or roast lamb.
Italy has a vibrant wild boar population, and many recipes for preparing wild boar.